lets try this just one...more...time.........PID adaptation.

[mozeppa]

okay i'm back ...i'm a quick study.

heres my new drawing.

will this work?

i realize that there is 2 pigtails ...one for 110v. to run the pid
and one supplying 220.v to the pot.

geez i hope this'n is right!

[kencha]

On your latest diagram the numbers of the connections on the PID don't all jive with your PID. No big deal, as you don't need to touch any of the wires on the PID itself.

Wiring of the 220 to the pot and SSR looks good. Just disconnect the wires that go to the "~" on the SSR at the terminal strip. Those will be your L1 and T1 as you have them labelled. Doesn't matter which is which. Don't go tugging on the wires too hard though. They should be soldered to the SSR's somewhat fragile pins under that heatshrink, and won't withstand a whole lot of abuse.

But before you do any modifications, have you tested the PID yourself to verify that it works? If not, I'd suggest that first. (You may have mentioned it in the past--sorry if I missed it.)

[mozeppa]

To Kencha...

yeah , it works right now as a 110v. it was made by "jconv" and sold to me by the banned guy that used to a pid admin.
went by the name "frozone"

works fine as a 110v. but now i have a 220v.

disconnect the 2 wires at the ~ ? .........whats that?

[kencha]

To Kencha...
works fine as a 110v. but now i have a 220v.

disconnect the 2 wires at the ~ ? .........whats that?

OK. Just wanted to make sure...

On your SSR, there are no markings for L1 and T1 like in your drawing. Instead, your SSR is marked with two wires going to the +/- (which you will leave alone) and 2 wires to the side marked with the "~". Those 2 wires will be your "T1" and "L1".

[mozeppa]

ah ha!

thanks! i'll get a new box that will hold the 220v. socket and the 110v. socket make the transfer of parts and shoot you a picture before i
fire it up!

[bangerjim]

thank you ..
got more pix

if i have to feed the Martian Orbital Vehicle "MOV" 220v ...do i have to put a 220v plug on the wall plug wires
and move their connection in the box?

also i think i got what you mean using a 110v plug line to feed the pot.

i got pix of all i could ...unless you see anything i missed...i wrote on the pix EXACTLY what is on each piece.
hope it helps you/me!

"MOV" is a metal oxide variable resistor! You do not need one of those!

banger

[kencha]

Well, if you really want a new enclosure... you don't need one though.

It doesn't look like you'll have enough room in the current enclosure to directly mount a 220V receptacle, but why not just remove the 110V receptacle, make a small filler panel for the hole, then put a strain-relief in and run a short pigtail with a 220V receptacle on it?

Less chance of not putting something back in the right place...

Just my 2¢, but I still think you'd be better off rewiring it entirely for 220V and getting rid of the 2 separate supplies, but if you can live with it, the separate 110V and 220V will definitely work. I don't think it has ever been answered, but is your 220V outlet you'll be using a 3 or 4-wire? I've been assuming it is the traditional 3-wire since that's what your sketches seem to indicate, but 4 wire is increasingly common.

[mozeppa]

yup 3 wire here.

are you saying that i could branch one leg of the 220v ...(110v) and a ground to power the PID? ....AND ONLY HAVE THE 220V PLUG?

[kencha]

are you saying that i could branch one leg of the 220v ...(110v) and a ground to power the PID? ....AND ONLY HAVE THE 220V PLUG?

Nope. If you had 4-wire, you could have one plug, or if you rewired it so it only used 220v you could have one plug. If you follow your diagram, you will be stuck with 2 plugs. Don't use ground as a neutral/return. I didn't mean to confuse the issue, I just thought I'd check to make sure you aren't passing up an opportunity for a cleaner setup with a 4-wire outlet.

[mozeppa]

i can live with 2 plugs ...one of each.

[Bignutt]

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong but the way I read the PID it can run off 120 or 240 volt power as it says 90-260 v ac/dc. So I'm of the opinion that taking the 120 off the 1-2 terminals and putting 240 on them, and then changing the output plug to a 240 instead of the 120 would be about all it takes, if the rest of the equipment are rated for 240.

[Bignutt]

If there are lights on the front then I would be wrong, can't tell if that's what that is.

[mozeppa]

yeah theres red blue and green lights on the front.