How do I test the tubes? I am starting to get the itch to get going on this project but still have a ton to learn
How do I test the tubes? I am starting to get the itch to get going on this project but still have a ton to learn
That's going to be tough unless you can find someone with a tube tester. The caps are more likely to go bad than the tubes though.
INFIDEL
I had a Hammerlund HQ 110 for years. Picked up all sorts of stuff. One turned it on and bang it went. Took it to a tv and radio shop and the guy said it would take more to fix it than it was worth. Simple copper wire antenna from my bedroom with an insulator attached to the school yard fence about 35' away. Frank
Right now I havent done anything but clean it up. Im going to take a bunch a pictures and start taking it apart farther. The chassis is rusty so im guessing that Ill have to sand blast it then pant it for good measure. Then start putting it all back together replacing all caps and most likely the wires also.
Have you even turned it on yet??????????????????? That test will tell a WHOLE lot about what you need to replace!!!
If you are talking about taking it TOTALLY apart and sandblasting the chassis.............you ARE gonna need a schematic, brother! I would no even attempt what you are talking about without a good schematic in hand!!!!!!!!!!!! And I am very good with electronics.
Testing tubes is a thing of the dim past. I kept my old tube tester and have it stored way, but finding someone to do it locally will be a herculean task, no doubt. Good luck on that one. Tubes are probably OK if they light up. But you need to turn it on to find out!
If I were you, I would just replace the caps with like rated ones and test it. If the tubes ALL light up, they are probably good. Do not rip all the wires, sockets, mountings, pots, etc out clean the chassis!!!!! A little mouse pee-rust and spider droppings will not hurt the function. Sandblast the CASE if you want and repaint it.
The caps may (with any luck) still be good. I have seen those old paper/wax boys last 30-50 years! I have a cap tester and they were still OK!
And wires do not normally go bad! You will need a good 40-60 watt pencil soldering iron and a solder sucker to de-solder stuff.
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!
banger
I turned it on and now power past the first tube. I also have a schematic and have taken pictures of every connection. While taking it all the way down does seem like alot of work I figure if Im going to do it I should do it right. Although im sure along the way I will have regrets until I turn it on and its 100% again.
There are a lot of resources on the web.
Check the internet for a local ham radio club and attend a meeting I think ypu'll find someone with a tube tester.
I suppose if you can find a pinout of the tubes you could check the filaments for continuity.
Check the web for a company called Antique Electronics Supply, neat place.
I have an Atwater Kent Console appox 1933 . It was rewired and all tubes were working. But still no voice. A friend of mine who is into Radio's told me you need a Hard wired Antenna . The one That used to mount to your Roof. Since it is not a Transistor That was the only way to get it to work. I.m not about to go up and start Mounting stuff up there
Sal
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
So you are saying only the 1st tube (model number, please) light up?????????? That is very strange. What is your point of reference for FIRST TUBE?
Hope you have a DMM to check filament voltages and continuity. If you have a schematic, you will be able to see which pins on the tubes are the filament. Check them for continuity OUT of the socket.
Is this a transformer powered radio? Look on the schematic. Better yet, take a picture of the schematic with you smart phone (hi rez, please) and post it on here!
banger
Yes the old guys need an antenna. A piece of wire 10 feet long stretched out in the room will work......sort of....depends on your location to the stations. But a BIG MASSIVE multi gang wire antenna is what they used to use. Kinda like a spider web from a central pole(s) outside your house. In town, you did not need so much. But "out on the farm", they had monstrous antennas to get the signals from "distant" lands.
Ahhhhhh yes, the blue flash of sparks.....the gentle whiff of ozone! Brings back memories of messing with old radios in my parent's basement.
banger
Your BIGGEST (!!) problems may lie in the variable air plate tuning capacitors. Those look to have gobs of dirt in there. Dirt can be blown out, but the plates are soft aluminum and are very subject to corrosion from animal/instect waste. It will be very hard to find exact ones of those!!!!!! And they are critical to the dial calibrations for tuning!
The bottom looks normal for an old radio. Hand wired, point to point, old paper/wax caps, and cloth covered rubber wiring. This IS a line operated set as we discussed earlier. The big yellow paper tube underneath is the multi-section power supply filter cap and will more than likely be shot and will cause tons of 60 Hz hum...........if the radio even does work.
Being line operated (no big black power transformer in sight) ALL the tubes will light up or NONE of them will light up, as the filaments are hooked in series. See my earlier post. Most tubes appear to be standard old octal socket style and the filaments are normally pins 4 & 5. Pull them and check with your DMM that you have a circuit with the ohm meter setting.
The two Al cans on top are IF/RF tuning transformers. The small transformer on the left middle is the audio out put transformer that drives the speaker and phones.
The rotary band selection switches will also be in sorry shape due to corrosion and oxidation. Again VERY difficult to replace in-kind. It appears there are 2 metal tubes and the rest are glass. Standard fare for the timeframe back when this thing was made.
LOTS of good luck on this one! If it was mine, I would play taps and give it a nice burial in the backyard. I have restored old electroincs in the past and you do have a daunting task ahead of you, my friend. The rust on the chassis is NOT your big problem. Again, I would suggest buying the restored one on Ebay for $100 and redonate this thing and take a tax deduction for it.
bangerjim
Well dang. I guess ill have to take it on a one way trip to Oklahoma. I looked on amazon and didnt see anything like the old receivers. So ill have to find a good old one.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |