I spent a little time at my range yesterday with my WASR10 AK variant. I have Tulammo 122gr FMJ and Wolf Military Classic 123gr HP. I also have some handloads I've been trying to develop using Hornaday 123gr SST bullets, Lapua Brass, H4198 and WLR primers. I haven't decided if this load is finished or not, I still think it could be tuned in a little better.
So far my handloads are producing superior results and will probably serve me well when a situation arises that requires a more precise shot (assuming I do my part). I highly doubt I'll ever need a shot greater than 75yds, but I think this round will be the answer in the case I do.
I don't usually pay too much attention to how one brand of cheap Rusky ammo performs verses another... they all seem to serve their purpose. I had noticed that the 122gr FMJ Tula seemed to be a little more accurate than the Wolf WPA, but I never kept track of targets or measured the groups.
After shooting a couple of boxes of both brands yesterday, I am convinced that the Tula is a fair amount more accurate than the Wolf. I would have thought the HP would be more accurate since there is less mass forward of the bearing surface... at least this is my logic. Maybe I'm wrong.
Today, I pulled apart a Wolf and a Tula cartridge to take measurements and hopefully determine if there is any real significant difference. What I noticed:
-The powder looked the same, but this doesn't mean they are. I didn't measure it. I should have.
-Both bullets have an exposed lead core at the base, however the Tula bullet had a diameter of .312 and the Wolf .310
-The Tula case length was approx 1.514 and the Wolf case was approx 1.523
I am not inclined to believe the case length is making a big difference, but I am thinking the difference in bullet diameter is probably significant. It seems that most WASR 10 barrels are generally in the .311-.312 range. Mine is a little more generous at .313.
I had been curious if jacketed bullets with an exposed lead core provide the right conditions for obturation to occur and seal the bore in the same fashion as a properly cast, cast boolit. I did some reading in my Speer manual in the 7.62x39 data section and it reports that this is indeed the case. The exposed lead core is intended to obturate, which should allow for an acceptable seal when fired in barrels with a larger than normal groove diameter.
Now, both Wolf and Tula have the same type of bullet base, but the Tula has the advantage of an extra .002 diameter. I'm curious to know if anyone actually sells the type of bullets Tula uses in their cartridges.
Now, like I stated; my handload out performs the Rusky stuff by a fair margin. However, My Hornaday SST 123gr .310 bullets don't have the benefit of obturation. I can't help but wonder about possible accuracy improvements if they were to obturate while zipping (or rattling) down my big .313 barrel.
I tried using .312 150gr hornaday bullets that were offered by Gaff and Sons, but I didn't feel that they were performing any better... possibly not quiet as well as the 123gr SST. Report was also a bit on the high side, and shot placement shifted enough that I'd have to adjust my sights to use this load.
In short, I suppose I am curious if I should pull about 100 Tula bullets and see how they perform against my Hornaday SST bullets. Since I am unable to find bullets offered with an exposed lead core or in an acceptable weight with a .313 diameter (which would be the holy grail for my barrel) I am inclined to develop a proper load with the Tula bullets. I realize that a lot of heads will role at the notion of using "cheap" Tula bullets in hopes of gaining accuracy when Hornaday makes a high quality bullet for this cartridge... However, my curiosity needs to quench its thirst.
If I'm obsessing over details that are insignificant for this rifle and/or the ranges I'm shooting, please chime in. I tend to obsess over these types of details. This is the only rifle cartridge I handload, so I don't have a great deal of experiences to rely on for understanding how these variables impact the performance of a bottle-kneck cartridge.
NOTE: I full length size my brass. All the manuals seem to suggest that this is a must for an automatic loading rifle.
NOTE: I'm not handloading this caliber for cost savings, I'm handloading for it because I enjoy handloading and quality ammunition.
NOTE: As much as I'd like to try casting for this cartridge, I just feel better about jacketed bullets at this time.
Thanks folks