Super! Thanks for posting the pics.
Yes, It appears to have all the attributes of an M1863 Type I (the Type IIs will have barrel band springs). So I'd have to call it an M1861 Jenks contract made in M1863 Type I configuration. Really, I see only one or two small replaced parts and that will not change the originality. Even has bayo! It's time to shoot it.... then of course clean well.
Yes it had some parts missing that is why they where replace and the screw was replace because when the gunsmith work on it it was not in good shape.He try to keep it as the way it should be as much as he can and the one that he got the parts that was needed said the same as you of what it is for what the gunsmith told him.And thank you for letting me know that the parts that was replaced also it is good to know also.I just waite for the moulds and get some FFG black powder and some other things for the use of it .I know you are trying to help me also that is why I wanted to show you the pics of it and also since this post was talking about the 58 cal and some is trying to learn about it like I do and for them to know of that some was contracted will help them understand better about the history of the gun thank you for your help.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
Absolutely- nothing like shooting an artifact of history! Looks like you've got a new nipple installed. Now some musket caps if that's the nipple size. Also, a long (40-44"), fairly heavy cleaning rod, 58 cal brass jag, some patches (I use pieces of cotton tee shirt if available), some moose milk (ballistol in water @ about 1:10 mix), nipple wrench, screw drivers that fit the screws, powder measure (I use one of the adjustable types), Minié mold of course (I like Lyman and RCBS- not Lee), some pure or near pure lead. I use plain Crisco for Minié lube most of the time. You can add a little beeswax to stiffen the Crisco lube for hot summer shooting if needed.
To clean these thoroughly and not risk adding rust to the already etched and/or pitted bore, I take the barrel out. Some scoff at that, but with care in barrel removal it won't hurt the gun and ensures complete, correct cleaning of the bore. Remove the tang screw and loosen barrel band screws, remove barrel bands. The barrel should lift out. Remove nipple. Place breech end in hot soapy water (I use a 2 quart plastic tub). With a large patch over the jag, pump soapy water up and down bore. Empty water and replace with clean hot water and repeat. Clean nipple and scrub out nipple seat with pipe cleaner. Run paper towel patches in bore while barrel is still hot to speed drying. Once dry, thoroughly oil bore. Replace nipple. Re-assemble musket. Check bore with clean patch a few days later to check for rust. Re-oil if necessary.
I usually start with about a 50 gr charge of FF blackpowder under a Minié in the 58 cal muskets. Seat the Minié firmly on the powder charge. I don't clean between shots as the undersized Miniés were designed to shoot continuous strings without cleaning. I usually shoot a string on target of about 5-10 shots before swabbing bore with moose milk followed by a dry patch before resuming shooting. The sights on these may or may not be regulated very well so use a large target backer at 25 or 50 yards to start with. They usually shoot very high even at 50 yards even on lowest sight setting so plan accordingly.
Good luck!
Last edited by fouronesix; 06-23-2014 at 02:36 PM.
Thank you for all your help and explain to me what need to do.I am waite on a mold for the minie to cast i will use pure lead like I do when I cast balls.I have the lead and waite for the mold it is on order I think t is a lyman if i remember right.The nipple is not a musket nipple but I have the nipple for the other muzzleloader I have 2 50cal that have side hammers that I use and deer hunt with, one is a navy arms and the other is cva . Thank you for all,yes also the nipple had to be replace it was broken and was replace years ago.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
Here's my Springfield M1863 Type I with a 3 shot, 50 yard group. The load was 50 gr FF Graf Wano, 420 gr RCBS N-S Minié, .580", pure lead, Crisco smeared in grooves.
The point of aim was at 6 o'clock on the black bull, low rear leaf with front sight well buried into the rear notch.
Most (not all!) of the time I can get similar results from other originals including M1841, M1861, M1861 Navy, M1863 Rem Zouave and an LA P53 Enfield. However, because of wear and tear on the originals, I mostly shoot my reproduction Zouave and reproduction P-53.
Is that the sling that gose for it.If so where did you get it because i am looking for one for my thank you.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
trapper,
Yes, nice to have all the accouterments with them. I do have quite a few original leather items like cartridge boxes, cap boxes, belts/buckles, cartridge box slings, etc. but all of the old leather is kind of fragile for everyday use. It's a good idea to use the reproduction stuff for that. Plus, original leather items in good condition are very expensive!
It's been awhile since I got this one so can't remember exactly but IIRC it came from either Fall Creek Suttlery (fcsutler.com) or Regimental Quartermaster (regtqm.com). These companies and others specialize in period correct re-enactment supplies.
Oh and as an aside, Track of the Wolf sells an excellent heavy tent canvas case for these at a very reasonable $8.50.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Catego.../1/GUN-CASE-63
Last edited by fouronesix; 06-25-2014 at 11:06 PM.
Thank you it is ok for the reproduction stuff that is what I was looking for because I understand about the leather. I just want a sling that match to the rifle that is all .It can be a repro to me.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
I check out Regimental Quartermaster site and they had a sling for that gun .Thank you
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
I finally shot that gun and boy that thing shot for long shots.Like was stated it will shoot high on a back stop and the 60gr of black powder works for minnies and ball and patch.That is the FFG that was to be used in it.Try it out today finally for how things went I could not shoot it sooner.It take some getting use to also.Thanks for the help also and hope this also helps someone else also.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
Time for an update.
I bought #11 caps which will also work for my .36 ML and then someone suggested this 58-Caliber-1861-Springfield-Rifled-Musket probably used musket caps rather than #11 caps.
I had to head off for some more work related travel and I never even managed to look at the nipple. I had to drive by the same store where I bought the #11 caps, but they didn't have any musket caps. I let them know I would be back in a week and could they get some in by then. I stopped by this morning and they had a thousand of them for me and more on the shelf for regular customers. Wow! Customer service!
They also had some neat moulds, but I will post more about that later in another thread. They don't have any moulds left as a MouldMagnet bought them all for his Mould Shed.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |