Years ago a buddy owned a stainless steel revolver and had it "bead blasted" to dull the finish down to more of a grey color.
Question is, can this process be applied to a nickle plated revolver?
Years ago a buddy owned a stainless steel revolver and had it "bead blasted" to dull the finish down to more of a grey color.
Question is, can this process be applied to a nickle plated revolver?
Last edited by Dutch4122; 01-19-2008 at 09:48 AM. Reason: spelling
-Matt
Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN
I reckon if you wern't careful, you'd end up blasting the nickle away. It will be interesting to find out off someone who knows for sure.
"I'll help you down the trail and proud to!" Rooster Cogburn.
"Slap some bacon on a biscuit and let's go! We're burnin' daylight! " - Will Anderson (John Wayne) "The Cowboys."
SASS Life Member No 82047
http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/4fingermick/
Psycholigist to Sniper; 'What did you feel when you shot the felon Sargeant?'
Sniper to Psycholigist; 'Recoil Ma'am.'
From my Irish Ancestors: "You've got to do your own growing, no matter how tall your grandfather was."
-Matt
Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN
Nickle plating can be stripped electrically and replated with electolys (SP) nickle plating which is a dull finish. One caution, It is not uncommon for platers to lose parts in the tanks.
What about fine emery cloth/paper and light taps with a brass/lead hammer would that take the edge off it?
My first sixgun was an old model Vaquero bright stainless in 44mag. I didn't like the shiny look, but it was the only one in the country and I had some dollars burning a hole in my pocket. I just traded it on a second hand pair of new Vaqueros in 45, yeah, you know it, bright stainless.
I also have an Armi San Marco 44/40 Colt Clone in nickle, but i'm starting to get used to these shiny pistolas. I'd be much happier with blued guns and Sambar grips, but when you live in Australia, you either import it and waittttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt, or takes whats going. Now a pair of Blued new Vaqs with Sambar or Ivory grips, that would be nice.
"I'll help you down the trail and proud to!" Rooster Cogburn.
"Slap some bacon on a biscuit and let's go! We're burnin' daylight! " - Will Anderson (John Wayne) "The Cowboys."
SASS Life Member No 82047
http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/4fingermick/
Psycholigist to Sniper; 'What did you feel when you shot the felon Sargeant?'
Sniper to Psycholigist; 'Recoil Ma'am.'
From my Irish Ancestors: "You've got to do your own growing, no matter how tall your grandfather was."
Since the nickle plating is only 1 or 2 thou. thick it is too thin to blast. IMHO Dale
Bead blasting with very fine glass beads at low pressure would likely work. Get hasty and turn up the pressure, and it would get ugly quick. I have used a bead blaster to strip chromed plastic parts, and if you run the pressure low enough, you can just dull the finish, without removing it, making a good base for painting, which is what we were after. Very low pressure, just enough to get the beads flowing would be my best suggestion. Plug the bore WELL from both ends, ditto for the cylinder. A bead blasted bore would not likely be a good thing.
Thanks for the info gents. Looks like I'll pass on the nickle plated revolver I was considering. Too much extra hassle and expense to have it stripped and then NP3 coated.
I do appreciate all the advice.........................................
-Matt
Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN
I'm pretty sure I've read of a chemical that dulls the nickle. Might want to ask around the plating shops.
I don't know of anybody who has bead blasted a nickle finish revolvers, but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. the high shine of the nickle finish is due to the high polish of the steel underneath the plating. Any bead blasting that would take the shine off would also get you down to steel in places.
They used to do a matt electroless nickle.
Nickel finish will grow on you, you'll like it. Don't do anything to it or you will REGRET IT.
45 2.1
Knowledge without understanding is a dangerous thing. For a little knowledge entices us to walk its path, a bit more provides the foundation on which we take our stand, and a sufficient amount can erect a wall of knowledge around us, trapping us in our own ignorance.
Never sleep, never die
Knowledge is easy to get, but worthless if you never use it. However the info is free, so the only person you have to blame is yourself if you chose not to use the information.
Don't hesitate on a nickle finish. Pimp guns need love too and shoot like a blue'd brother. Ex-owner of a nickle Mod 19 4" i wish I had back.Gianni
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
Is the nickel finish by way of electroplating, or is it electroless?
You will be ruining the effect/purpose of the original nickel regardless. But if you are willing to accept the expense of nickeling again, electroplated nickel can be removable completely without issue.
Electroless nickel, applied over a surface prepared by honing the base metal, is nearly impossible to remove. If electroless plating has been applied with the base metal having been prepared by acid etching, it is still very difficult to remove, but it can be done.
Hope this helps.
It’s so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don’t say it. Sam Levinson
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
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BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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