Glad to hear you're getting better results! I agree that a fatter boolit will likely work better as long as it wil chamber.
Glad to hear you're getting better results! I agree that a fatter boolit will likely work better as long as it wil chamber.
it tapers down to the same diameter as a 30 cal gas check shank [.284] at least my mold does.
You misread my post. I did NOT call you a nutball, but the commercial casters are on this subject. I
would never make that sort of unkind and uncalled for comment about a member here.
We usually hear excessive interest in hardness as a primary way to avoid leading amoungst the beginners.
Focus on fit, lube and proper powder charge selection for the design and leave hardness as a fine tuning
issue for later. As hard and small as that boolit is, you'll need to whack it pretty hard with some FAST
powder to try to get it to upset to fit better. Red Dot at about 8 gr, working up to 13 gr should work fairly
well, as should try about 7 gr working up to 10 gr of Unique. You'll likely have better results with a GC
boolit of .310 or so diameter and cast of a softer alloy, around 14 BHN or so like air cooled wwts. Save
the super hard for the 2000 fps class of loads where it may actually be needed, although I think the small
diameter will still give you trouble.
Bill
Last edited by MtGun44; 03-30-2014 at 12:49 AM.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Back to the basics. From the posts, I see a 'hard' boolit of uncertain fit. No gas check. Relatively high powder charge. A heavy crimp. 'Hard' boolits do not necessarily grip the rifling better, and without a gas check, might lead to leading of the bore. I'm not sure where the line is, but, somewhere around 1400 - 1600fps, you need a gas check. While the boolit might be the nominal diameter, each rifle is different, and you must also consider the throat of the chamber. Also, a heavy crimp can reduce the diameter of the boolit. SO, try and determine the groove size of your barrel. DO try and do a chamber cast to determine your throat diameter. I have read that you need to fill the throat with the boolit for best performance. Adjust your boolit speed to that suggested above, until you get one with a gas check shank. Did I miss anything? I hope this helps. Nothing new from me, just trying to clarify what all the rest were saying, and put it into one post. Good luck. mikey
If you drive a boolit thru the barrel it should show signs from the lands and grooves. If it shows only marks from the lands you then know the boolit is too small.
I'm surprised Larry did not mention it but a poly-fil filler may help the accuracy. Use about 1 gr. and push it in the case with a pencil and seat the boolit so it touches the rifling. I have used this when the bore was larger than any boolits I had available and it worked pretty well.
The Grex shotgun filler is reported to also do the same thing.
My 1917 has open sights so for now my experiments in 06 have been reserved to the model of 1903. I have learned much from this form. I have made the pound casts as well as slugged the barrels on both of these rifles as well as my 30-338. 2 things jumped out at me right away from doing this. 1 the 1917 I have has much more pronounced rifling than the 03. It also starts sooner, or closer to the brass when loaded. We did the 30-338 3 times only to find it has allot of free bore. I have taken allot of measurements with the micrometer on the casts and slugs. however I think a person can gain a whole lot from just looking at the slugs.I can clearly see the amount of grip the rifling has on each bullet the shape of the chamber and throat and how well my load matches up to the chamber cast. I believe this is and a whole lot of reading on this form is why my first 5 loads with unique and 4227 powders have resulted in 1 inch average groups of 5 shots at 50 yards. I am using the lee 309-170 mold sized at .310 and gator checks. I also have been using my first batch of Ben"s red lube. so far I have shot 25 rounds and then 1 wet and 1 dry patch for cleaning. next trip out it was 18 rounds and no reason to even run a patch down the bore. It was spotless. I have sorted my bullets into .1 grain increments as well as weighing and labeling my sorted brass and shooting it in sequence from lightest to heaviest. I have been using 50 ww-50pb+2% tin,air cooled. I have a bunch of water dropped. I am saving for when I make the jump to higher speeds. So far I have found nothing but great advice and an abundance of help here.
P.s. a guy should check out the cooking section as well, Lots of good found there also.
Didn't recommend a dacron filler because with the faster burning Bullseye I recommend for bullets such as the OPs the filler is not necessary or needed. Now with a softer FB'd bullet of proper diameter the low end 2400 loads mentioned would benefit from the dacron filler. However, that is not the bullets the OP has and is asking about.
Larry Gibson
If you upset a throat slug, and measure the diameter of the ball seat ahead of the case mouth, before the rifling starts, THAT is the diameter you should size bullets to. Most M1917 .30 cal chambers run large in the throat, and will do best with a bullet of .312-.313", cast no harder than 12 BHN, and for a plainbase load which shoots well without gaschecks or filler, work in the range of 6-8 grains of Bullseye, 8-10 grs. of Unique or 11-13 grs. of #2400. We shoot many thousands of these for Appleseed classes in the Springfields and US Enfields with fine results around 2 inches at 100 yards in most rifles.
It's not about gun control, it's about people control. The progressives are using terrorists and the insane to further their agenda. If the socialist news media wasn't complicit, we could sit back and watch Fast & Furious and Benghazi-gate unfold.
Ben shoots a lot of tiny groups with plain-based boolits, the trick is 1400 fps and some attention to detail. He does this with just about any medium-to-slow pistol powder, it doesn't seem to matter which one.
Check out the threads he's posted about it, or send him a PM.
BTW, Outpost75's recommendation to make a pound cast of the rifle's throat is spot-on. Do that and don't worry about the groove/bore diameter.
Gear
Too Small and Too hard.
A perfect storm.
You have the answer in the posts above.
10 to 12 grains Unique
Or
14 to 16 grains 2400
Sized to .310 or .311 will get you into the 1.5 inch range. ( But NOT if you are using a gas check bullet with no check. )
( Unless the rifle is faulty or there is an operator error. That last one causes a lot of large groups in my case.)
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
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Quick update to everyone,
I was able to recover a handful of fired projectiles from the field behind the target area, and upon inspection it was clear that these are not the correct diameter. Two grooves are plainly visible and the other side of the bullet is untouched. I sacrificed a 12 ga 00 buck load and slugged the bore, confirming that it measures approx .310
Thank you so much everyone for your help and input, I will simply need to use increased diameter bullets if I choose to continue using cast bullets in this particular rifle.
I would use the fatter Lyman 314299. This bullet shoots verygood in most. Load it long so that it is shoved into rifling...this will help center bullet on takeoff and reduce wobble down range. I have used 20gr of 2400 with verygood results in my 308.
The Hornaday 30 cal gas checks fit this bullet perfect. I size bullet and crimp GC in LEE .311 sizer. VLD Chamfering and Flaring of case mouth with Lyman M die will help seating.
Last edited by detox; 04-02-2014 at 09:34 PM.
If you want, I can send you some boolits to try out of my Lee C312-185-1R mold. It drops about .311 so I can send you some unsized. Problem is they are slightly out of round being up to .314 on the fat side. My .309 sizer actually puts out at .310 so those may work for you or I can powder coat some and size to .310
With a .310 groove diam, I'd start with .312 and then try .313. I think
you may succeed with .311 but it will likely be right on the edge of too
small.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Jim K:
Have not been working with my M1917 for a couple of years, but here is some data I pulled from 2 years or so. Groups are not great, but they were shot using the M1917 iron sights. My groups for this rifle are not the small size many here have achieved, but I have not yet put the load development effort in this rifle to shrink them either.
Following Target is from 100 Yards. 190 Grain Lyman 311644, sized to .311. Used 21 Grains of WC846 powder with a 1/4 Sheet Toilet Paper filler over the powder. .014 Aluminum Gas Check. Average Velocity was 1539 FPS. (BLC-2 has close to same burn rate as WC846)
This Target is from 100 Yards. 165 Grain RCBS 308-165-Sil sized to .311. Used 26 Grains of WC846 powder with a 1/4 sheet Toilet Paper filler over the powder. .014 Aluminum Gas Check. Average Velocity was 1725 FPS.
How do your groups compare to these efforts?
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
Larry and MTGun as usual have it right. Proper fit being the key to most cast rifle blts regardless of hardness. Most of the mil surp 30's will shoot best with at least .311.
1Shirt!
"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin
"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying
Worry more about bullet size fit-to-bore and than hardness.
Bullets of any reasonable hardness should shoot well if sized .002 over bore, gas checked, and not driven too fast for the alloy.
My .30 cal rifle bullets are in th normally heat treated to 20-25 BHN, gas checked, and sized .312.
2100 fps and slower, I've never had problems with poor accuracy or leading... none.
My own best accuracy hovers around 1700-1900 fps.
And they slap pigs as well as any.30 cal in the field.
Salvaging old Marlins is not a pasttime...it's a passion
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |