Dumb question, have you ever tried muriatic acid? Works a champ for me, especially after banging my head around with naval jelly too. Far more effective, and id be curious how it works compared to Vaporust. never had to soak anything for 6 hours in muriatic to derust anything.
What's the best treatment afterwards for moulds and dies ? Our humidity is so high it's hard to keep the rust at bay
moisture displacing oil works best, for me. flood-spray, half-**** wipe off.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
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I'm thinking about adding a larger AC to the shop to help remove the humidity
Regardless of climate and humidity, I would recommend wetting with oil and storing in an ammo can!
Keeping the mould halves from banging around is also very important. Rubber bands are useless in the presence of oil. I recommend using nylon tie-wraps to hold the blocks together.
Wow i wish i knew about this stuff a few weeks ago. I saw a bunch of old reloading stuff with rust all over at an estate auction for cheap $ and passed it over. Now i know better and am kickin myself.
The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.
Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
I just ordered in another 5 gallon bucket from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Free Shipping to my door and used the "10off50" code for an additional $10 off... 5 gallons for $85.19 delivered to my doorstep. Get them while the gettin' is good.
The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.
Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
oh yes, it does that. I tried a barrel cutoff, washing it after I stripped with via muriatic. Imagine my surprise when I came back the next day and the cutoff was bright orange! Neutralization is definitely needed with muriatic. If evaoprust is really $85 for 5 gal, sounds like it's very reasonable in price.
Usually (usually) processes like this are hydrogen emitters. Hydrogen burns with an invisible flame, if not energetically. Anyone who played with MRE heaters know how low intensity the flame is. But flame it is, invisible or not, so there is a technical danger, assuming the reasoning for dis-proximity to one's home is gas discharge.
You would have to have a very large part, an unusually powerful DC source and a very tight house for the amount of hydrogen being emitted to be an issue. Yes, there is technically a risk. There is also a risk that a meteor could scream from the heavens and vaporize me in my bed. I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it though.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
It might also depend on what mix your using in the Electrolytic rust removal as to what the gas is that it creates (just guessing).
The few times I tried it I used a water/washing soda mix, powered it with a low amp 12 volt car battery charger and it did bubble some but I do not know what the bubbles were.
Michael Grace
+1 on PIF's
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |