Seems a shame to use a quality cast iron dutch oven to melt lead. They create such nice biscuits and pies.
I use a heavy duty steel pot.
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I've got two cast iron dutch ovens, bought before they started coming from China. Never thought about trying to hasten cooling when finished cleaning up WW. Too much other clean up to worry about hurrying the cool down.
If I had a lot of WW to clean, I used a large pot fabricated from a 12" steel pipe with a 1/2" steel bottom. All this stuff is now stored at a farm a friend owns. His son may want it some day. My sons are not interested.
John
W.TN
Good thread I just bought a CI dutch oven from Tractor supply for $10 to do what the OP wants to do (I think). I want to use it to mix/flux my alloys then pour it into my Lyman ingot mould. From there I would use the ingots of ready alloy in my Lyman Big Dipper for bullet casting. I have not tried it yet but will follow advice of letting it cool by itself.
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Last edited by Usmc1968; 02-02-2014 at 08:48 AM.
I bought a dutch oven and used it quite a bit for smelting range lead. Then I had a welder friend of mine cut a propane tank in half for me. Both work very well, but I prefer the cut tank because of the round bottom and the ease of getting almost all of the melt out of it easily.
Let me add some info here. When heated a Dutch oven can crack easily if any external striking pressure is applied to the oven. One example of this would be smacking a metal skimming spoon on the side if the oven. Don't ask me how I now this...just know that I know it. Never smack a hot Dutch oven filled with lead with anything stronger than a wet cigarette butt.
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I use a heavy cast iron dutch oven for smelting and casting ingots. No problem so far.
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Aluminum can fatigue with repeated use. A few minutes inattention can let the melted lead reach 900-1000 degrees and more. 50-100 lbs. of molten lead can ruin you day, or life. Don't risk it.
Mine has been working fine. Cheap import that it is. A work of caution. I don't care where the cast iron was made, it's not a great idea to beat on a pot containing several quarts of molten lead regardless of where it was made. Beat the slag spoon against the slag container (not the melt pot); why would you want to knock slag back into the melt you're trying to clean? Nor to cool the pot when you're done by dunking it in a tub of water. Nor to dump cold WW into the melt (use a spoon).
A bit of caution when dealing with quantities of molten metal pays off in many ways.
All that said, I'd still looking to get one of Mr. Crockett's steel pots when I get off of my duff.
Last edited by dudel; 02-02-2014 at 01:06 PM.
+1 My first pot was the aluminum one that came with the turkey fryer. First time smelting, and I wanted to get started. When I was done and the pot cooled off, I noticed the bottom of the pot had sagged to match the grating on the fryer! I thanked my guardian angel, and never used that pot again. Smashed it with a small sledge to make sure no one else would either, then threw it away.
YMMV, you may get a thicker aluminum pot; you may also get a thinner one.
I got two from DCrockett and have a couple tanks from scrap yard to do my own. I heard he stopped selling them but hope that is not true. Possible, closed for winter. Regardless, a cut propane tank has many advantages especially the round bottom.
I've been using a cast iron Dutch oven I got at the flea market for $5. Been working well for smelting my wheel weights.
My big concern is for the future. My hope is that each person that uses a dutch oven or cast iron skillet to melt lead in will permenently mark them with a skull and cross bones. That way thirty years from now some unsuspecting person will not be buying it from e-bay to cook biscuits in.
Lead will seep into the cast iron because it is porus(sp) but will it do so to stainless steel?
I would not think so
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Well, i love my old dutch oven for smelting ingots from range scrap... And with the lid on, i dont have to worry about the poping and tinsel fairys flying around.... A very safe method as the lids are heavy... Even once had a live round get mixed in, and was completely contained due to the cast lid.... It was a 22 rimfire, but still could have gotten a visit from the dreaded tinsel fairy....
AG
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First of all, it's not TWICE. To use terms like that, you need to use a temperature scale based on an absolute zero (e.g. Rankine or Kelvin). Since I quoted in Fahrenheit, let's go with Rankine then.
R = F + 460
Thus 621F = 1081R and 1221F = 1681R.
As such, if you are operating at 621F (1081R), you are at 88.5% of the melting point of Aluminum (1221F / 1681R).
It loses it's structural strength as it gets hotter and the weight of a pot full of lead might just be enough have it structurally fail and make your life miserable.
Originally Posted by http://www.aluminiumdesign.net/why-aluminium/properties-of-aluminium
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Uh..no. a different scale has different gradiants. 621f + 621f = 1242f. 1221f Al so roughly twice that of lead on F scale.
This is besides the point. Your last paragraph answered the question I had. The hotter it gets the more elastic and the weight of the lead will deform it to the point of failure.
That's an interesting graph. I'm surprised at the rapid failure of Al. Thanks
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I have dropped the bottom out of an AL pot that seemed to be pretty heavy and before I'd read all the warnings. Not worth it, thankfully it was ''just''10#.
A year or so ago I damaged a ''good'' Dutch Oven w/a live round of presumed sorted clear lead. That resulted in something like 70# of lead on the driveway. That said,just a week ago I found a replacement for it. It is smaller but much heavier pot , I trust the CI pots as much as any ,and I think the CI controls the temp better than steel . That's probably subjective like the CI ''feeling'' safer.
I did cast from a 2qt CI pot for a couple of yr. I would offer that it is tempting to use the largest pot you can get to do your smelting and cleaning in be mindful of how much weight you are putting in your pot and how much your heat source will carry.
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