Just curious if anyone knows of a mold such as this? Seems like a good use for all that zinc we never can use.
Just curious if anyone knows of a mold such as this? Seems like a good use for all that zinc we never can use.
Haven't heard of one. My brother in law just drills a hole in the cars and uses my bottom pour pot to fill it up with molten lead.
I used my 100gr .257 bullet mold and a 5/16 drill bit and some wood glue to hold them in after drilling the bottom under the car's hood area. Worked beautifully for all three of my boys and their time in the Scouts. If you needed a lot of weight, just increase the bullet to a .312 and use a 5/16 drill bit.
Bruce
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
go to the pet store and buy some cuttlebones that you put in bird cages. You can only use them once but they carve easily. If not try one of those fleabay core molds and pick your diameter
Domari Nolo
Back in the day, pop and I cut out a cavity in the bottom of the car and filled it with a mixture of bird shot and Elmer's glue. Easy to get the right weight when dealing with small pellets rather than big lumps.
I'd probably be inclined to use a .38 wadcutter mold, making cavities for the slugs with a drill bit of appropriate diameter. I figure the lube grooves would hold enough JB Weld to keep them in place.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
I used to weight my boys' pinewood derby cars with the drill-bit/boolit method but the birdshot/glue way sounds good too. You can make a temporary mold out of silicone - just press a waxed carving of what you want the weight to spec out at into silicone, let it cure, and you should be able to make a couple of castings with it. Works for lead, anyway, the melting point of zinc is not that much higher...
I made a fixture that allowed me to rout out an opening in the bottom of the car. The opening was large and deep enough to hot glue a thin ingot that I cast using my ingot mold. I would finish the car and weigh it, and subtract the resulting weight from the 5 oz max allowed weight for the car. I would weigh out the difference in lead, minus a few grains, melt it and pour it into my ingot mold. Once it was cooled, I could hot glue it into the car. At the final weigh in, I would take my hot glue gun and some lead shot. If I needed extra weight I would just hot glue the required amount.
I usually drill a hole or two and insert wad cutters to suit. Once I dug a trough out of the bottom, put a couple wood srews in to hold the "ingot" and then poured molten lead right onto the wood. It worked just fine.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I'm not quite sure this is the right place for this but will give it a shot. On a small lead dropper to make shot, such as a pan with nozzles in it, how high off the ground does it have to be to give round shot, second what would be the best media to drop in, water,or a coolent of some type?
Thanks; Sprink
40 years ago my Dad drilled mine with a 3/4" spade bit and filled it with 7-1/2 shot to correct wt. and covered with Elmers glue.
I don't want to play favorites but...Sig, that is an awesome idea. I love it!
Domari Nolo
I... or my son, "thinned" the body by splitting the thickness...then drilled holes through the width of the car behind the rear axle...put a little wood filler in one end and fill them almost full with lead then dab a little filler over the end. Use a small bit to drill out some lead if over weight...get right on the 5 ounce limit or whatever it is.....the rear weighted cars we made were always fast...polish those axles and don't miss under the head. Clean-up the tires...tread side, chuck-up in a drill press and use very fine sandpaper, use a pipe cleaner chucked in a drill with tooth paste to polish the inside. Stretch out the wheelbase if allowed and lower the car also.
Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.
Pretty much what most of the others said. We just drilled where they wanted the weight and glued in some of my 30 cal boolits. I just helped a friend of mine add lead to his son's car. Which by the way, was a copy of the Oscar Meyer wiener mobile!!!!!!!!!
You want a non-bullet design mold for a derby car? Do an online search for a suppository mold. They do look like bullets though, but without grease grooves.
I buy lead wire and cut it to length. Several sources including Amazon to get enough for a car for under $5.
Any core mould will do what you want unless you need full car length pieces.
I've made a lot of molds out of three layers of aluminum foil in whatever shape I needed.
In case the official scale didn't match, I always used a washer and screw over a hole full of shot.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |