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Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:00 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
Hey Tim, there's a fella in the smokeless PP forum having trouble getting a Cerrosafe mess out of his chamber, got any tips for him?
Gear
Maybe someday I will have a colorful rifle in need of an impact cast.............
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Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:01 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
goodsteel, Green Lizzard and I have done this before but this time we tried to follow the few places where your instructions varied a bit from what we've done in the past. This one (1899DOB Marlin 1893 in 38-55)came out very well I thought. Thanks for taking the time. This is a good read with great tips!
Best Regards,
John
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Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:01 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
Ok Tim, Now you have me curious. We did this as an afterthought while working on the thoat of a 32-20. Actually have a pretty lengthy thread started on Marlinowners that started out with my novice questions about throat reaming.
So now, if I understand you correctly you are commenting on the leade or lack thereof? I actully thought it was a little abrupt but it was so much better than the 32-20 before we solved that problem that I haven't stumbled on it too hard yet. But the rifle is leading! And doing so with what you'd think was a properly sized and lubed bullet, with a pretty anemic load, as in 1250ish fps.
So, I'd love to hear what conclusions you'd make having a good look at that chamber cast?? Are you thinking it could benefit from a throat reamer with a shallow taper?
I was thinking about starting with some paper patch, maybe, if that doesn't help, even a 'very light' firelapping (not sold on that yet) and see if that more modest polishing approach might eliminate the leading - that is if I also go down to near-bore size on the bullet.
Best Regards,
John
I make a lap cast by putting the cleaning rod up near the muzzle of the gun with a wad to seal it.
I use that as my pound slug from the muzzle after I have taken it out.
A cold barrel will shrink the cast for an easy fit.
Seems to make an easier to pound slug without having to bump up lube grooves.
Just another way
What is the largest caliber you've tried this on?
Do you find it gets quite difficult at a certain point?
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Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:01 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
I've done three .45 Colts, a .45/70, and a Shilen 45/90. Piece of cake. The bigger bores are actually easier due to being able to use a bigger, stiffer rod (hardened all-thread wrapped in tape).
Gear
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Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:01 PM.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
I did my Ruger 77/22hornet using approximately the method discribed here. A piece of 3/16 CRS rod and a 1 pound ball pean did just fine. I'd love to post a picture of it but it got knocked off the bench and into a black hole that likes to swallow things like that. Got one in the laundry that likes the occasional single sock.
I haven't done the pound cast yet but wondering how hard is it to get the gas check started in the barrel?
Worried about messing up the crown starting the gas check?????
Don't use a gas check use a good wad of tissue paper, far easier.
Texas Macs instructions and take on the various methods of getting impressions is very help full.
http://www.texas-mac.com/Discussion_...mpression.html
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
The gas check doesn't need to be started from the muzzle end. There are other good ways, I just prefer the gas check because it is a virtual guarantee that the tip of the rod won't jump against the lands and ding them when struck.
Gear
Ok, here is a rough cast of my Marlin in 357.
Notice the sharp entrance to the lands. I think this is why is rifle hates any SWC bullet. They just don't enter square to the bore at all. The 359640 shoots better at 100 than any SWC will do at 50. Faster is better no matter what the bullet.
It almost looks like the chamber is cut with a longer than needed case section then it ends sharply.
Big question is what to do about it.
You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.
Eeeuuuwww. That looks like my NEF .45 Colt throat. Marlin is famous for reaming chambers with no step at the end of the case mouth and then, somewhere up there in front, having an abrupt slant right into the grooves. Best bet is use the largest boolit that will chamber and have a short bore-rider (or as long as the action can handle) and a concave transition to the bearing diameter that matches the throat angle. You won't be able to fill it all, but you can pilot the nose and make sure the back stays straight in line with the bore until the base clears the case mouth. By then, hopefully enough of the front is engraved straight to hold things together while the base band spans the chasm. This is one place where buffer will help. Buffer won't expand the case around the boolit before the boolit moves (like burning powder will), but rather pushes it like a piston in a syringe. This helps keep the base of the boolit from collapsing to one side before it gains the support of the bore. Buffer also helps keep the lube from getting blown out of the grooves prematurely.
Sumphin' like this from Tom, but with less bore-rider and more front band (and of course in 35 caliber):
Gear
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |