Popper- You want me to coat some boolits with red/copper for you to test?
Popper- You want me to coat some boolits with red/copper for you to test?
Thanks for the offer LL. I have a bunch of testing to do before I get another mould for the 30/30 so I'll pass for now. Shot a bunch of my 308 CB sans check with the green in the 30/30 with MOA @ 50 so I have to decide if 165 or 180 works best. Plus loading a bunch and getting some tannerite for Thanksgiving in Ar with the family. Had a 3 dog nite (2 border collies & Syd) this weekend so I got lots of house cleaning to do today. And load up a couple hundred 9mm as daughter is getting her XDs back soon. I'm having a little leading at the muzzle with mine, green coated. Think my OAL is short or I did a lousy job of coating on my first try. Still scary accurate for a 3".
Rangefinder has a technique of flashing off the solvent which I think is making a hard skim surface to solve the rack drying problem with PC. Might help with the H-T. Also thinking of trying to overcoat with talc before drying. So much to do.
Whatever!
I thought I would have the time to do the testing now but just got back from the VA. I'm scheduled for surgery 11-7-13 for a tumor in my salivary gland between my left ear and jaw. They already did a biopsy and are 95% sure it isn't malignant. This will be surgery number 32.
I probably will be away from shooting a month or so at least because I shoot a rifle left handed, the side they have to cut on.
i do have some Contender and Encore barrels that I can set up as a pistol so might be able to shoot them sooner.
I do have some 22 cal 45gr Lyman heat treated lino boolits ready to coat so will do the two coat process on them.
best wishes for you recovery, Leadman.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Speedy recovery Leadman.
Has anyone used HT coating for rifle bullets fired from a short barrel contender?
The reason I asked. No one has said that they had tried the shorter barrels. An I was wondering if the barrel lenth was a posative or negative facter if HT works.
Last edited by kbstenberg; 10-23-2013 at 06:31 AM.
I have fired HT coated boolits in my 30-30AI 14" Contender. Same as shooting them in any other gun.
New mold arrived , now I have to make more !!.. trying all the pin configs in the mold and will have pleanty to coat at the end of the week.
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
I'm updating my toaster oven. I'm going with a digital control, convection oven. I was looking at the Oster large, double rack oven. Is there any down side to a two rack oven? I like the fact of baking around 500 boolits at a time. Do you think that is too much mass in the oven for the coating to get up to temperature? Thanks
Depends on how good your oven is. If it has top and bottom heating elements and a very good circulation fan, then you may be able to do it. The only way to be sure is to try it.
My current oven has top and bottom elements with a great fan and I still only bake with 1 tray with 300 9mm bullets at a time. 40, 44 and 45 I only bake 200.
If you want to go larger, you would be better off with a travelling deck Pizza oven.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I have that big oster. I am wanting to retrofit it with a PID. It is digital so.......Anyone got a clue as to what I will need? Temp swings are pretty wide. Just recently purchased a digital thermometer so I can monitor. Ausglock, didn't you install PID in yours?
Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!
kweidner I use one with my oven - works fantastic, it's the same one I use on the pot. I just connected the heating elements (bottom) to a plug and left the fan & timer on the regular plug. I have 3-4 CBs where I inset the probe, through a small hole in the side of the cabinet ( I took the cover off). Works for PC or H-T coating. I've only done 3-400 170 gr at a time. I have some FG insulation to cover it when colder weather gets here, I work in the unheated garage.
I have a large double rack oven but it takes too long to heat up with both racks loaded.
I have been using the PID off my pot on one oven but have parts coming on the slow boat from China to build 2 more. Should be here next week, I hope.
what pid are you guys using? My oven is digital will that matter? I guess i could leave fan on current controls. If not i could make a switch. I guess a thermo couple and a PID would get it? Any suggestions?
Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!
Bought a few black 122gr, yep! Steve was shootin em in his 380 so i did to, i like em. These must have #2 Or #4 cat on em,, their slick'er-n-wombat $zh@t.
I made my pid with parts I bought off e-bay. not that hard to do really. You could check the oven temperature with an oven thermometer or lead thermometer. I use a DVOM with a thermocouple I bought at Walmart. As long as the temperature in the oven matches the control setting and the swing is not too great you should be good.
Trying the superhard resin 2 in the SVI Racegun tomorrow.
Wish I have a rifle that I could test it in.
The red 1220/L is a very nice Maroon. The QLD State IPSC Standard Division team will be using my bullets in the Maroon. Maroon is the QLD colour.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I coated last weekend for the first time with the Oster large double rack convection oven. Even though digital, the thermostat was off by 25 degrees according to both an oven thermometer and my lead thermometer. I coated 7.5 pounds of 230 TL452-230-2R 45 ACP boolits (about 228 boolits) with 7.5ml of 5-1-10 and while they were drying, preheated the oven to 400F. I placed the oven thermometer in with the boolits since the oven's thermostat doesn't show the actual temperature, just the goal. After 5 minutes the thermometer indicated 300F. After 8 minutes the thermometer only indicated 350F. As the oven was cycling on and off quite a bit and the temperature was barely increasing, I turned the thermostat up to 475F and watched the thermometer closely. After a total of 13 minutes, the thermometer indicated 400F and I turned the thermostat back to 400F and took the boolits out 2 minutes later for a total bake time of 15 minutes! They passed the wipe and smash tests.
After a little experimenting my method became preheating the oven and keeping it at 400F for at least 10 minutes (based on the $5 Walmart thermometer) to ensure the oven walls were as hot as the circulating air. I then increased the thermostat to 450F and put the bullets in the oven. After 5-6 minutes the thermometer would indicate 400F and I'd turn the thermostat down to 400F and leave the boolits in for another 2-3 minutes to ensure the lead actually reached 400F. Setting the thermostat to 450F caused the oven to shorten the 'off' times in its cycling and reach the desired temperature more quickly.
This was all on a 70 degree day. I'm guessing that a higher thermostat setting will be necessary as the outside temperature drops to reach the desired 400F within a reasonable period of time. I may also add some insulation as the entire back of the oven is a single sheet of thin steel with absolutely no insulation and my airplane hangar where I am baking the boolits is not heated.
It might be possible to bake 2 trays of boolits at one time but I would imagine that the thermostat would have to be set as high as possible (475 in my case since the oven runs 25F higher than the displayed temp of 450).
Thank you Ausglock for all of the information and experimentation. Only with your sage advice did my first attempt at coating produce 1,140 golden boolits, some of which I will dispatch downrange tomorrow.
I am in the process of coating some 405 gr bullets for my 45-70. These shoot very well in my Marlin with traditional lube! I want to see what they do with the coating.
Some will get shot at 1350, a few at 1650. Will be interesting to see how they do. I am sure the lower velocity ones will be fine.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |