Got my first mold yesterday and i'm very excited to start casting, my question is, what do you initially clean your mold with?
Got my first mold yesterday and i'm very excited to start casting, my question is, what do you initially clean your mold with?
The last 2 Lee molds I have bought I just took an old toothbrush and scrubbed them with some dish soap and hot water to degrease. Then I lubed with bullplate when I started casting.
Ill keep my guns money and freedom you keep the CHANGE!!!
Soap and hot water and/or brake cleaner spray, followed by lots a Q-tips.
the new Lee 2 cav. molds.
First, I rub the cavity to mold face edges with a wooden dowel to remove any burrs, then I break the top edges [seam between the mold halves under the sprue plate] with a diamond honer, then I use the Diamond honer on the edge of the sprue plate that could gouge the top of the mold when closing the sprue plate.
Then I would clean the entire mold and sprue plate with hot water and dish soap with a toothbrush. Preheat and start casting.
GoodLuck,
Jon
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
+1 on the above post. I have had to really get some of my new Lee moulds smoking hot to cook out oils even after repeated cleanings. I just dunk them in the melt and cook them a while, then let them cool down. I have had to do this to 3 moulds that just wouldn't quit wrinkling the boolits.
Funny you should ask this question today!
There is a discussion in another thread about the scrubbing and cleaning and scrubbing and cleaning molds.
Well...... I just received a 2 banger 30 cal Lee mold today and I did NOT clean it.......AT ALL (!) as a test. It had a very light coat of manufacturing oils all over it. Just smoked it with a beeswax candle ( NOT paraffin) and started dropping bad boys perfectly from the VERY 1st pour.
I really feel the many old wive's tales all over this site and YouTube about cleaning & scrubbing & scrubbing & cleaning molds are waaaaaay over done. I have the proof!
I pre-heat my molds on a hotplate so they are up to temp B4 starting.
bangerjim
I just got my Lee312-185 last Thursday. I hit it with carb cleaner and lubed the sprue plate with permatex anti seize as per the instructions. After 3 fills I was dropping nice projectiles. Lee must be getting better. It drops COWW at .314 and about 190grs.
I just picked up two new ones, .358 125gr RF and 358 158gr RF, both got the lementing treatment right off. The effort one takes in doing this is well paid for in long levity, in my view.
Lee molds? I heat them on a hot plate then clean them by filling them with lead hundreds of times.
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
Theodore Roosevelt
I'm with the simple crowd on this, I have 7 Lee molds and all I have done with each mold is scrub them in the kitchen sink with hot water, dish soap and the wifes scrub brush. Pre heat mold on hot plate, apply some Bullplate lube and cast away. I have start to sand the leading edge of the spure plate as they are usually uneven or have a burr which will scratch lines on top of the mold blocks.
all I ever do is take them out of the box set them on the pot while the lead is melting. then start casting.
I get a large Chinese Soup container. I put mineral spirits in the container, then soak the mold for two days. I then heat my melt, set the mold on the melt while it is melting. I then cast.
I look for a six second freeze on the sprue. I believe the heat evaporates the mineral spirit residue and this acts as a mold release untill the mold gets oxidized.
You will see a lot of flakes in the soak container, first time.
Best to spray the cold molds with Carb cleaner or Gumout....outdoors. Let them dry. Then lube the alignment pins/areas and you will be good to go. To prevent galling on the sprue plate screw area I lightly touch the hot sprue plate screw with a candle. After 50 casts, I repeat. Works very nicely.
maybe I am cautious, but I heated cycle my molds 3 times and than clean them in hot soapy water and rinse with clean hot water and than hit them with brake cleaner preheat them to operating temperature, lube the mold and cast.
I coat my Steel/Iron molds with oil. When I need to use, I merely wipe off the oil and spray with Carb cleaner or Gumout (outdoors) and let it evaporate...it works remarkably well.
I just picked up the C309-170-FP the other day. I scrubbed it down with dishwasher detergent and hot water and that took care of the oils pretty good. Went to casting with it and dropped the obligatory bad boolits for the first few fills. I tend to cast hot and fast( cause im cheap and want good fill out in the mold without the cost of adding much tin ) so getting the blocks hot doesn't take long. Once it was warmed up they were beauties falling from the blocks or needing just a tap.
I think sometimes folks have the "extended wrinkle boolit syndrome" because they start slowing down to inspect the blts too soon and in so doing they allow the fast cooling aluminum blocks to cool too much in between pours....Ive been there. Wash the blocks, warm the blocks, lube the blocks. I cast at least 4 pours and dump them straight into the sprue bucket without looking at them-5th pour start to inspect. Of course this is just what works for me. I have 5 Lee molds and they have all been great casting molds.
-Will
Cleaned my mold with just soap and water, here are some of the boolits that passed inspection. Not bad for a first time caster
Yep, very nice for your first time and the first time with a 'new' mold, especially with a new 'Lee' mold. while many times a Lee mold will work great out of the box, many times it won't, whereas most any other brand will almost always work great out of the box.
I'm glad you had some good luck.
Jon
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |