I'm probably opening a can of worms here but i really would like to hear from some of you who have tested them both sided by side ( not just opinions). also can the boolit be driven as fast with the aluminum? thanks fellers!
I'm probably opening a can of worms here but i really would like to hear from some of you who have tested them both sided by side ( not just opinions). also can the boolit be driven as fast with the aluminum? thanks fellers!
the problem I've had with aluminum checks is those I purchased them from used a thinner material than big name copper stock and when sized onto the boolit shank the check didn't hold and often stayed in the sizing die. however those boolits fired with aluminum checks grouped as well as copper checked boolits
Tried .22 caliber Hornady GC's and homemade Aluminum GC's ....in the .223 Caliber no decisive difference.
Tried the Hornady and some aluminum check in my 8 mm and the aluminum check would not group at all but the Hornady grouped fine. Also had trouble with the Al ones coming off.
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If the Al checks were not crimping on or not staying on the bullet then the material used was to thin. That's the beauty of Al checks. You can fine tune them like you would a load. I have seen no discernible difference between Cu and Al as far as performance. I bought the tooling to make the Al checks so I have control over them.
When I started making my own checks several years ago I was getting the same accuracy out of aluminum checks as I was with factory checks.
Correct thickness is the key to good aluminum checks. Get your material from yonky and you will be happier making your aluminum checks.
You will have better results using the correct thickness and yonky's material.
could you drive the aluminum checks as hard/fast as the copper?
Give me a few hours and I will let you know. I purchased some .30 cal aluminum checks from 338RemUltraMag, put them on some 175 grain bullets. I'm headed to the range in a few to see how they shoot out of the 308. I have both the aluminum and Hornady copper checks loaded to test, I'm trying to see if I can get around 2100 fps without leading and some accuracy. From talking with 338RemUltraMag his checks are made with the correct thickness of aluminum and he has not had a problem pushing the aluminum as hard as copper. I'll let you know what I find out.
Copper and aluminum are about the same. Just too many types of both. Brass is a safe out for high velocity as it is twice as strong.-- tj .
Have had good luck with alum, have tool to make 30's, and it works well. As stated if material is to thin, there will be problems and they will come off. Have found a fair number of my checks in the berm confirming that they made it all the way intact, at vols up to and including 2200fps in 30 cals.
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I make my own GCs in .30, .31, 8mm and .35 cals using .014" aluminum flashing and .015" brass shim stock. I have found the AL GC'd bullets to many times be less accurate when pushed to higher velocity and pressure levels. I have done several comparative tests between my own al and brass GCs and commercial Blammer, Hornady and Lyman crimp on GCs. My own brass GCs performa as well at all levels as the commercial GCs. I still use lots of al GCs though for loads not exceeding 1900 fps.
Before all the "you're full of BS" posts start notice I said "generally". Aluminum GCs aren't always "inaccurate" at higher velocity/pressure but are enough that I don't use them for such since I also make them of brass. The brass always works so I use those.
Larry Gibson
Larry makes a good observation regarding higher velocity/pressure performance of alum. checks. I have had degrading accuracy at the upper end but have yet to dedicate the time to research whether it is a factor of velocity or pressure or both. I suspect it is velocity and shear.
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The other day I was surface picking the backstop at my range and came across several of my boolits. I know they were mine because I'm the only one who shoots the Loverin design. They had aluminum GCs on them when I fired them, The GCs were still on them when I found them in the berm. Seems like they are staying on ok. BTW I'm working up an accuracy load for a single shot hinge action .30-30. Right now I've got it down to 1 1/8 in groups at 50 yards with those 150 gr. Loverins and 6.8 gr of Red dot. Now I'm playing with seating depth. The aluminum gas checks are doing a great job.
A friend got some Aluminum checks from a person on the forum that is making them. He was nice enough to send me a handful ( small hand )
I tried them on my #429244 44 mag bullets. I loaded some with copper and some with the Aluminum.
Put up two targets at 30 yards, shooting was off a sand bag rest with the SRH 7.5" The copper checks put 5 rounds in about 3/4 " the Aluminum checks shot the best group I have shot to date at 30 yards, .470 I was very pleased.
The load was 19 grains of 2400
I don't know what check maker the guy used but if I had the money I would get one and sit in my little camp all winter and make gas checks.
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I have used both Hornady copper and aluminum gas checks I have ordered from eBay in .30 cal and .223. I have had good shooting results from both. I find that the copper .30 cal checks can be upwards of 5 grains heavier so it does change the ballistics slightly. The only real issue I have had is with the aluminum .223's while tumble lubing I will sometimes have the checks fall off. This has not been as much of an issue with the .30 cal. I will continue to use the aluminum as cost wise they are half of the price of copper. I would rather equate the cost savings to more shooting for the same price. Just my observations, hope it helps!
.30BR bench gun RCBS 30-200 sil. 2000 fps. can't tell them apart.
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It seems all of the backyard gc shops are using freechex tools with their 700-1000/hour rate not uncommon. tj
Like most of the other posters, my aluminum GC's have had issues with staying on. They don't appear to have much spring and don't crimp tight. The peo[ple I bought them from (on this forum) have worked with me in attempting to solve this issue by providing GC's made with thicker material. (good people!!)
The only ones that I never could get to work were for my 375 Win. I finally picked up a box of Hornady and have had no problems.
In short, the theme concerns the thickness and temper of the aluminum GC's. Once you solve that issue the performance improves.
Shoot Safe,
Mike
Retired Telephone Man
NRA Endowment Member
Marion Road Gun Club
( www.marionroad.com )
And... if guys are concerned with accuracy results, gas checks that fit, and gas checks performing when your shoot your cast loads, you may want to read up on what my customers are doing with Checkmaker™ dies.
If you are more interested in selling gas checks and seeing how many you can make an hour, you may be better off buying my competitors dies.
Had to get a shameless plug in here, as my customers do not have problems with gas checks staying on...
Do Checkmaker™ gas checks STAY ON once fired?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=82949
There's no reason you can't make gas checks that not only fit well, but perform well with aluminum and 30/30 guy has certainly shown that over and over again.
Last edited by PatMarlin; 09-04-2013 at 10:08 PM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |