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Thread: Master Caster

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    17

    Master Caster

    Hi All,
    I have my order in for a Master Caster and need have some help on optional parts?
    1 110 or 220
    2 Digital Temperatire Controller
    I have 220 in my shop.
    Thanks for the help.
    Rich

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    wymanwinn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Solvang, CA
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by RDP View Post
    Hi All,
    I have my order in for a Master Caster and need have some help on optional parts?
    1 110 or 220
    2 Digital Temperatire Controller
    I have 220 in my shop.
    Thanks for the help.
    Rich
    if you have 220 in the shop order for that....lower amperage draw for the same watts means smaller conductors....

    the digital controller is a pit pricey at $200+ but saves the hassle (albeit small) of setting up your own PID...

    wyman
    Solvang Shootist
    SASS 60905-Life
    Frontier Cartridge Black Powder Shooter

  3. #3
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
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    28,088
    the 40 lb pots really don't wander all over the place in temperature.
    it take about 9 pounds of alloy to really slush one up.
    2 lbs of alloy doesn't even make it flicker.

  4. #4
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
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    6,879
    Lets try this again. My computer gave me the blue screen of death 1/2 way thru my last reply attempt.

    If you have 220 in your shop then I would get the pot 220 and then the fan 110.

    If I were to do this again I would get the PID setup from MAGMA and then just have to deal with the automation process itself.
    Right now my control panel does the temp control and the automation process. Nothing wrong with my setup just that it takes a while to build it up and set it up initially.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    5,297
    I made one with a 60# pot and just built the timer circuts. Back then I had a lot more free time and less extra money. The one I built uses 230 for the heating element 110 for the PID and low voltage DC for everything else.

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    17
    Thanks for the help.
    Rich

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    17
    Hi All,
    I just got a email from Master Caster wanted to know
    if I wanted a 220 blower?
    What is the best way to set up the blower 220 or 110?
    Thanks for the help.
    Rich

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    145
    I would get the fan as 110V,

    You will likely want to add a good work light that illuminates the pour area / sprue cavities, so having a wall mounted power strip is handy.

    I tend to do all my ingot work in summer and actual casting in winter so the temp is usually cold enough I don't use the fan - except when going really fast with 210+gr molds.

  9. #9
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
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    6,879
    I think he plans to automate his MC ao the fan would be on all the time.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    17
    Hi All,
    After a long wait my Master Caster will be here on Thursday, Is there any tips or special
    things (other then the power) that I need to do before the first casting.
    Thanks to all for the help.
    Rich

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check