no swheeler, just sayin why water drop if ya gonna put em right back in the heat. I just drop on towel then on kooling rack. Coat em then:
I dont know much, but theys a guy building a ammo factory by the airport and i'll prob get some good tips. Hes interested in hi-tek.
Gunoil; do you know if 8 minutes at 375F draws the HT back on bullets already treated, that is what I want to fin
d out
Charter Member #148
dont know swheeler, But i'll find out days to come.
Well popper,
you go hot to cool to hot to coat to hot oven to cool. Well, popper did you WD last time cooked? I think some did post ago that no change when WD'ed after final cook.
Last edited by gunoil; 08-04-2013 at 11:54 PM.
Got out last night and tested my coated 168gr SWC going 700fps. Tho they still leaded it was 10 times less than the 125gr bullets so I'm thinking you guys are right it's my alloy. Now the 125gr's are going to be melted down but what about the 168gr bullets do you think they can be made to run around 750fps? I hear of people pushing pure lead in a .45acp so my question is it the speed or the pressure that's more important when running pure lead?
And if you think it's going to be a real pain just say so and I'll melt them down with the 125's.
I tried pure lead coated 3 times in the 45 and it still leaded. Cut it 50/50 with COWW and now no problems.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Yes, melt them down. ausglock just told you again. [3/4 WW's & 1/4 of your bullets] See you just need some WW's, and you'll be fine.
Apologies in advance if this is covered in the previous 690 posts, but I just don't have it in me today to read them all.
My first attempt left very rough boolits (rough texture not coverage). I'm assuming this should not be the case and I used too much mixture, or not enough acetone. These are my first so I'm doing small batches. 5ml color, 1ml hardener, 6ml acetone. Another attempt with less boolits was 2.5ml color, .5 ml hardener, 3ml acetone.
Mixture is placed into a mason jar without lid. Swirled for 30 sec to a min then dumped onto .25" hardware cloth. one time I left alone, another I agitated them on the hardware cloth every few minutes. Sound correct? Anything I should change from your experience?
On another note, is there a pic somewhere showing boolits with all the colors next to each other. Would be neat to see them all side by side.
-Ry
try 5-1-10. And u do need to read some of the post, vids and pics.
Thank you Gunoil I'll try that mix out. I should not have implied I did not read any of the thread, I did go through a bit of it and watched a u-tube vid mentioned early on. Still there are a lot of posts, and one can only read so much in a sitting or 3.
Yea, just scatter thru em, especially ausglocks. Better to be thin than thick, you can just coat again. Too thick, your trouble again.
Also be sure to shake the mixture thoroughly before applying to boolits. Helps to have a couple boolits in the mixture while your shaking. I use a couple of 1 ounce 12 ga slugs. When you think you have shaken it enough, shake some more then pour immediately on the boolits to be coated. If it sits it will begin to settle again. My experience with the gold anyway.
Shake it like mad then shake it again before you mix then shake your mix before you apply it. I got clumping if it tumbled them to long. If you hear the sound change while you are tumbling them you may have tumbled them to long especially with the red copper.
Ryokox3, If they're coming out with a rough texture it means you are not letting them dry long enough before baking. The roughness is caused by the acetone gassing off. They'll feel dry in just a few minutes, but they're not. Put them in front of a fan. I leave mine for at least half an hour to be sure.
If I have any question about them, I'll turn on my oven for just a minute then pop them in to warm up a little. Then I take them out, and preheat the oven.
Hurrying with this stuff doesn't work.
On a different note, I shot about 100 240swc's in .44 on top of 6.5gr Unique through my Winchester lever rifle with ZERO signs of lead.
Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.
Page 19 post # 366
Read it and re-read it and you will be fine.
mixing such small amounts may be an issue. I like 50ml of colour, 10 ml of catalyst and 75ml of acetone. this gives enough to coat about 4 to5000.
Once the sound changes, dump them on the drying tray and leave them for at least 10 minutes, but 1/2 hour is better.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Since I live only about 20 miles from Bayou Bullets, I recently drove there and picked up a Hi-Tek kit from Donnie. I wasn't picky about color so I ended up with red copper. Today, I had an opportunity to run my first batch. I mixed it 5-1-8 and did a small batch of fifty 40cal bullets to get my feet wet. The learning curve is pretty simple. I did a couple more batches and I seem to have it down pat now, easy enough. I did the hammer and acetone test and passed both and I am pleased with the appearance. The coating looks very even, I did 3 coats.
I decided to try this because I have a Dan Wesson 44 Mag that has resisted all attempts with cast bullets. I have adjusted alloy from soft to hard, measured the cylinder throats, forcing cone, slugged the bore, and loaded according to what "should work". Custom "M" die expander, fast powders, slow powders, light loads, fast loads, different lubes, I even lapped the bore.............I still get leading. Not heavy but enough to affect accuracy after 20-30 shots. Some combinations have been better than others but none have solved the problem.
Maybe this Hi-Tek lube will do the trick. I sure hope so.
glad your here, you ever run gas checks in 44? I would t know.
I'm using the black and I don't think I have any hair left! I think I'm having mostly oven problems. I have returned three ovens and I'm now on my 4th. Every single one of them couldn't get up to temperature and of course I ran out of bullets to coat to test the new oven. I'm really getting frustrated.
I had two coats on and they passed the acetone and the smash test, but when I sized them the lower base of the bullet had the coating scraped off. So I thought for the hell of it I would put another coating on with the new oven. Seemed to work ok when I sized them again, nothing scraped off.
But after loading some dummy rounds and using the bullet hammer (puller) I had some scraping at the base. Not all over, just in some spots. Is this acceptable??? After viewing it I didn't realize the casting was so bad, but you will get the idea on the scraping. Also I'm getting a small nick in the base of the bullet from what I believe is occurring when I seat the bullet. Is this normal when seating lead bullets?
I coated a few 100 44 (.429) for a mate that casts his own and lube sizes. he gets leading in his S&W 29 and his lever rifle in 44 Mag too. I coated 2 coats of red copper and he fired them yesterday with zero leading in either gun. He is now casting like a demon for me to coat for him.
I'd say you need a bit more belling of the case mouth. What type of Sizer are you using? I got this when I was trying to size with a Lyman 450 and a LAM2. both with no lube in them. I went back to the lee push through sizer die and no problems like this since.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |