Just picked up one of these. Solid, but well-used and in need of some ejector parts. I can't tell how the ejector works -- would like to correspond with someone who shoots one of these.
TIA
Tom
Just picked up one of these. Solid, but well-used and in need of some ejector parts. I can't tell how the ejector works -- would like to correspond with someone who shoots one of these.
TIA
Tom
If somebody were down on the corner handing out $20 bills, someone else would be complaining that it wasn't two $10s.
Here's a parts source ... http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/parts.html
Regards
John
Also, lots of parts show up on ebay.
NRA Life
NMLRA Life
F&AM
Thanks, guys -- good tips.
If somebody were down on the corner handing out $20 bills, someone else would be complaining that it wasn't two $10s.
Greetings
I shoot one when up north there.
NOE has a Group Buy that will end real soon for the Boolit you will need. A hollow base .515 450 grainer. If you can swing the price jump now. We have been waiting near 2 years for this one and you may never see another available in your life time.
My 1868 has a fat thoat. Problem you face is getting a mold large enough to drop a .515+ when pouring 40-1. A .515 mold will only drop at .511 or so and even 3F has a tough time bumping that up to .518. The HB mold will take care of that. Plus if you need a narrower boolit they are easy to size down.
So hurry to the Active Group Buy section. You will have to hunt. Last I saw the Buy was on page one. It will be closing in just a few days.
Mike in Peru
"Behold The Lamb of God that taketh away the sin of the world". John 1:29
Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.
Thanks for the tip -- found the thread and think I'm in
I see you have a M1868 -- great rifle. Do you also have a M1866? If so, does the ejector mechanism work properly on your rifle? Mine doesn't, and I'm trying to figure out how it works and what needs to be replaced.
Thanks.
If somebody were down on the corner handing out $20 bills, someone else would be complaining that it wasn't two $10s.
The web site Trapdoor collectors .com Is very good. Ed Knicely is very knowledge and can supply parts for your 66. Best to call him he will guide you on what parts you need for the extractor . I believe there is only 1 . i have replaced mine and got the part from him directly from the allentown gun show where he sets up, I do not recall if the is a spring behind the extractor of not but it's a simple replacement
Any 50/70 will shoot fine
Sal
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
Thanks, Sal -- I have always enjoyed the .50-70 cartridge. Have had a New York State rolling block and a M1868 Springfield. I'm looking forward to putting my "new" M1866 through her paces.
Thanks for the tip on Ed Knicely, too.
Will let the board know how all of this plays out...
If somebody were down on the corner handing out $20 bills, someone else would be complaining that it wasn't two $10s.
Tom, the trapdoors are addicting. I have 6 different ones right now and by far they are my favorite gun followed by Sharps. There is just something about them they just feel right when you put them to your shoulder.
Tom , You have a rigid pin shaped device on the door hinge that will pull the brass out slightly then a small horse shoe shaped spring on the side of the action will finish the extraction. The spring is usually broke on an old gun and what is left is visible when you pull the stock off. You need both spring and pin to make it work. The spring is not strong enough to work by itself. I bought mine off e-bay. LB
I own an 1866 and the ejector os a U shaped spring with a tab on one side. It fits on the side of the chamber on the outside and projects through a slot to the inside. The shell rim catches it when the action is closed and compresses the spring. There is also a friction spring an the bottom front of the action just in front of the chamber which engages the shell rim and holds it in place. When you open the action a hook on the front of the breach block pries the cartridge out of the chamber a short distance and the U spring extracton completes the extraction and ejection of the shell. The Manual for that model says that you do not need the extractor to use the gun it is only a conveinence to speed up reloading. You can get spare ejectors from S&S Firearms in NY. I had to replace the one on my rifle and it is relatively easy to do.
Looks like this:
http://www.trapdoors.com/view.php?area=parts&id=538#a
NRA Life
NMLRA Life
F&AM
Thanks, NickSS -- very helpful. One more question: there is a spring that acts on the cam latch. Is there supposed to be some kind of stud that slips on the end of the spring to contact the cam latch, or is it just the spring?
Thanks for your help with this.
If somebody were down on the corner handing out $20 bills, someone else would be complaining that it wasn't two $10s.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |