Is there a real need for linotype?

[crabo]

I have just started casting and have about 40 pounds of linotype. I have about 1000 pounds of WWs smelted into bars. I am shooting cast in my pistols right now, but may also move to rifles at some point. Linotype is getting very hard to find and it costs $1 a pound when you can find it.

My question is, should I even be worried about finding linotype or just stick to collecting WWs. I have a source that charges me $.30 a pound for WWs. I was lucky to find them.

I will hunt, (deer and pigs) with my pistols as well as target shooting and silhouettes. Do I need a harder alloy than WWs?

Should I try to stock in some linotype? Or am I better off try to add in tin and antimony to my WWs? (I think that is what you add to make it harder)

I hope this question makes sense.

Crabo

[Ricochet]

Shoulda bought into wiljen's plus metal group buy. $1.00/lb., small amounts blended with other alloys harden them up.

[BABore]

Just water drop the WW bullets. They will be 26-30 Bhn in a week or two.

[standles]

Shoulda bought into wiljen's plus metal group buy. $1.00/lb., small amounts blended with other alloys harden them up.

I would love for that to run again. I saw it still on the list at the GB site but knew that it had ended. Next time I will find and join the board sooner


Maybe we can have another one before Christmas.

Steven

[Sundogg1911]

I've been lucky enough to aquire a nice supply of Linotype. (on several occasions)
I personally think its a boolit casters gold, buy If I had to pay that much for it I may not feel the same.

[Lloyd Smale]

I couldnt due without it. I do like harder alloys then most and i detest water dropped bullets. I guess someday ill have to bite the bullet and start doing it again but it will be a last resort

[leftiye]

I have areal need for it if you know where to get it for a reasonable price. When that source of antimony dries up, I'll still have that need. Only way to get clean metal (except by accident). WW always seem to cast boolits with crap in them, dull surfaces with inclusions.

[XBT]

Straight WW’s should be fine for all your pistol shooting. If you’re having trouble with mold fillout adding a bit of tin might help, but most people just use straight WW.

The linotype is useful for “sweetening” up lesser (softer) alloys, and makes excellent rifle boolits when used straight.

Lino is really good stuff, and I would never pass up a chance to get some at a reasonable price, but I would not pay $1 per pound for it unless I was really desperate. I would not turn down any WW at $.30 per pound.

[Moose]

Linotype is the caster's dream metal. It is designed to cast lines of type (Duh!) and using lino lets even a clutz like me to cast Loverin-style designs with speed, courage and vigor. They look like they were machined. Hard, too, without going through the bucket/seasoning thing. And, you can size/re-size/re-lube without worry. Downside? You can give your sizer/luber a hernia if you take too big a jump in size. IMHO score as much as you can, and don't let anyone sweet talk you out of it. Make it up into nice ingots, and treasure it up. Talk about wadcutters that actually cut wads. It's great stuff. Flux and stir often. Deserves to be ladle-cast.

[Kid Curry]

I prefer adding linotype to help reduce leading. WW do not grab the grooves and leads heavily. I use about 50% linotype but think I am over doing it. A bullet will pass through 2 boards, bounce off another, and barely deform. WW are free for me but the linotype price will go out of site the more rare it gets. Not sure what percent linotype will be suitable for various loads. I notice the going price, including shipping, on ebay is about $1.50+ per pound. I need to stretch the nearly 200 pounds I have left.

As for casting pure WW for black powder... I do not have a discoloring problem if it is cleaned well. They are as bright after casting as the linotype mix.