Regarding crimp dies for rifle rounds, does the Lee die put a taper crimp or a roll crimp
on rounds like 223,308 ect.
Regarding crimp dies for rifle rounds, does the Lee die put a taper crimp or a roll crimp
on rounds like 223,308 ect.
IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"
They call it a segmented crimp. Read this link.
http://leeprecision.com/reloading-di...ory-crimp-die/
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It doesn't taper or roll, it has a narrow crimp "band" that is done by a collet, and they work great. The photo in the link that jcwit posted shows the top of the collet, it has 4 segments or fingers that squeeze on the case mouth from the side.
thanks for the link jcwit
Yes,,, The Factory Crimp die from Lee does do a great job of crimping the bullet into the case. I use them for all of my .223 loading, .308/.30-06 loading. I have several others as well. For use in Semi Autos they provide a better, firmer crimp.
The big advantage of the FCD is that they are not affected to any great degree by overall Case Length. A roll crimp is greatly affected by case length. It will either be too deep or not deep enough unless all your cases are exactly the same length. same applies to a taper crimp.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Thank you, and we are talking about crimping on cast bullets in 223,308,3006, correct ??
IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"
Use mine on 30-06, 7.62x54R, 35 Remington, 223 Rem, 300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Ultra-mag. I like to experiment with different bullets and sometimes different seating depths. I crushed too many shoulders setting up for different rounds. All I do with my seating die is seat bullets. An extra step that saves time.
Rifle type FCD is a good tool. I use them and recommend them, less
sensitive to case length than convential crimping dies.
Pistol type FCD is a disaster waiting to happen, I recommend avoiding them.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Only on .30 cals and larger Wayne,,, I don't load .22 cal lead.
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
JCWitt's link says it best. I use it on all rifle calibers that I load. I like the die- just gives it an extra squeeze.
regards,
Do they work on J-word projectiles without a cannelure? Many, if not most, of my jacketed hunting loads use bullets without a cannelure. Will the Lee rifle crimp dies work OK with them or is the cannelure/crimping groove required? Also, I use the pistol Lee factory crimp die on all my loads - 9mm, 10mm, 40 and 45. I see a number of Forum participants are strongly against the use of these dies. What am I missing?
Thanks.
yooper
For an autopistol yes definitely avoid them. For a straight walled rimmed case in a hard recoiling big bore they are the cat's meow.
There is a carbide ring in the bottom of a FCD for autopistol loads that sizes the loaded round. That usually will swage the seated boolit so that it is not of sufficient diameter to seal in the bore when fired. You can load a round of 9mm or .45, then run it through the FCD, and pull the boolit with a boolit puller and measure it. You may see that a .452" boolit is now .449" in diameter after using the FCD. That's the chief complaint about those dies.
Last edited by DougGuy; 05-30-2013 at 03:23 PM.
Yes they will put a segmented cannelure in a lead core jacketed bullet, no experience with all copper bullets.
It really solved a bullet creep problem in my .375 H&H. I only use the dies for semi-auto and lever rifle guns other than the bolt .375.
I use the factory crimp dies only for my .458 Win.Mag. BSA ,.375 Win M94 and 7.62 Mosin 91/30
for the rare times that I want to waste some....Ughhhh...Jacketed projectiles.
They work fine and I set the crimp light so as not to deeply impress the brass or bullet.
Cast boolits get a gentle roll crimp.
Lead...still the best boolit material since 1400 AD.
Load well, Shoot well, Live well.
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