My new De-rimming die. less than $10

[Cane_man]

Thor, thanks! just what i was looking for, something like this, i am cheap *** and love to make my own stuff so this is perfect...

i could be wrong, but i think you can do just fine in swaging with grade 8 bolts and a small bench top lathe!

[MightyThor]

I didn't have my lathe when I did that setup. Since then I have made better holders and much better punches. Part of my need at that time was because I had broken a punch that I had purchased online and was having trouble getting it welded up right, kept getting off center. Started with the punch cause I needed it first. Then decided to do the die cause I figured I could always use a spare for the one I had been using for decades. Needed to fine tune the two together but was very satisfied with the results. I have subsequently made a similar set up for 25 cal using a bigger bushing and 17 HMR brass.

[Lizard333]

10 dollar derim setup on a 400$ press. Priceless. I love it. That's what makes this forum really cool.

[plus1hdcp]

Well said

10 dollar derim setup on a 400$ press. Priceless. I love it. That's what makes this forum really cool.

[arjacobson]

I made the exact same thing but found out how to make it work better(less force) Find someone with a cut off wheel and make the bushing around .250 long or shorter.. When you have a long bushing it will tend to stick to the pusher rod. It still derims and sizes the same but with only .250 or less in the die at one time you will be amazed how much better your results will be.. Worked for me..

[Bored1]

Great idea!!!! Don't care what it looks like personally as long as it works! I would buy that before a "pretty" one.

[Cane_man]

how about tapering the opening of the bushing for the first 1/4"?

i plan to mount this bushing inside of a 7/8 grade 8 bolt... it will look walmart beautiful

[dbosman]

how about tapering the opening of the bushing for the first 1/4"?
i plan to mount this bushing inside of a 7/8 grade 8 bolt... it will look walmart beautiful

Can one drill holes in grade 8 bolts with a $200 Craftsman drill press?

[Cane_man]

^^^ i dunno, give it a try all you got to loose is a $2 bolt

[dbosman]

^^^ i dunno, give it a try all you got to loose is a $2 bolt

Ummm. Nope. If I can't clamp things down and keep my fingers out of the way, and know the drill bit will get through the piece, I don't drill metal.
Some of you folks know what your doing. I nearly took the top side off a finger when a piece I was drilling - shifted.
Fortunately it wasn't the finger that has a flat spot from a scissors accident.

[Rolling Stone]

Lots of good ideas here. I broke my derimming punch from Corbin and made me a new one out of a grade 8 bolt. Sorry to say, about 100 derimmings later the first 3/16 of the punch had worn down about .025 ( from priming material that didn't wash out)and the cases showed it. A hardened punch is necessary if you plan on any sort of production.
Rolling Stone

[Lizard333]

Lots of good ideas here. I broke my derimming punch from Corbin and made me a new one out of a grade 8 bolt. Sorry to say, about 100 derimmings later the first 3/16 of the punch had worn down about .025 ( from priming material that didn't wash out)and the cases showed it. A hardened punch is necessary if you plan on any sort of production.
Rolling Stone

Or you could clean the 22LR brass prior to derimming to remove that material. Seems easier to me.

[midnight]

Here I thought I had a really original idea using drill bushings in a pocket in a 7/8-14 rod and now I see many others are doing it. I found a source (Tacoma Screw) of 7/8-14 B7 ASTM A193 threaded rod. The same steel used in Grade 5 bolts. It should be strong enough to hold the drill bushings. I like the idea of using a short bushing. I have to do everything on a Grizzly 1006 mill so I don't thread except by hand. Am I right in assuming I'll have to grind the mouth flare in the bushing because its too hard for a tapered reamer?

Bob

[Smokin7mm]

I experimented with the drill bushings before I got my RCE equipment. I used a dremel tool to taper the lead in. Then use a emery point in the dremel to smooth it and then polished it. It worked fine. I never did get around to mounting it into a die before I obtained my other equipment.
Bret

[MightyThor]

how about tapering the opening of the bushing for the first 1/4"?

i plan to mount this bushing inside of a 7/8 grade 8 bolt... it will look walmart beautiful

Cane, there is no need to go to the expense of using a grade 8 bolt because that part does not receive any wear from moving parts. The bushing is already hardened when you buy it and the bolt just acts as a means of holding the drill bushing in the head of the press. It is also easier to machine, drill or modify the grade 5 bolt.

As far as making the drill bushing shorter, I never thought to try it because I never had an issue of things not working. My jackets pop off the punch on the pull down, the next jacket goes in and pushes the first one out with a little "pop" and I grab the first jacket and drop it in the bucket. In literally thousands of jackets I have not had one stick to the punch. I have had a few push the punch through the jacket and fold up at the bottom of the punch, but that is about it.

Also found no need to taper very far into the bushing. I just opened the end up enough to make the rim sort of self center and then polished that area so that things would slide in rather than catch.

On my punches, I have played with rounded ends, flat ends, tapered and straight sides and all sorts of materials. No question that the harder the punch, the longer they last, and that is how I have broken several. I work above a concrete floor and more than one punch has slipped out of my clumsy mitts or rolled off the bench and shattered. Now that I can make my own (have a nice lathe now) I am making them harder than before. When I was making them softer, I would just make a new one when the jackets started showing signs of punch wear (the line where the rim used to be gets more pronounced)

Truth told, I have shot a ton of bullets that had groves at the rim line because the punch was well worn and they function just as well for my use as any bullet that has a perfectly smooth jacket. I do not shoot bench rest with these and couldn't say if there is a difference or not. My son and I did dispose of some decade old paint in the cans using these bullets in my 222 and the results were explosive. Paint can shrapnel!

[Rolling Stone]

Or you could clean the 22LR brass prior to derimming to remove that material. Seems easier to me.

Well now, What makes you think I didn't wash, tumble with SS pins and do all the normal things to clean the brass?
I wasn't the first one to fall off the cabbage truck. I have done this successfully for some time. My point was the same as MightyThor. " No question that the harder the punch, the longer they last,"
Have a Nice day
Rolling Stone