A bit off topic but relevant to topic. How large can you go over the bore size before it becomes unsafe? If it chambers would it mean it's ok to shoot? Just back off the load for pressure increase?
A bit off topic but relevant to topic. How large can you go over the bore size before it becomes unsafe? If it chambers would it mean it's ok to shoot? Just back off the load for pressure increase?
I size at .357 for mine and only get small amount in my glock. I good lube helps too. I use 20:1 lead/tin for my pistol rounds. In a s&w sigma and kel-tec p11 0 leading. I can deal with the light smear as it cleans easily and never gets more then that.
I shot some of the .357" boolits today and still got leading. I guess I'll go up to .3575 next and try that.
I use .356 in all 4 of my 9mm's over 5 - 5.4gr of Unique without trouble so I'm not sure that is where your problem lies. You might try 231 or Bulleye.
What are you using to measure your bullets? The cheap Vernier electronic calipers frequently are .002" off. Try to measure a known diameter bullet using the same techniques, and see what you get.
What are you using for lube? NRA formula may be smoky in lower pressure loads, but it has never failed me.
I have 4 Beretta 92 barrels, and they are all a little under .358". Make sure such a bullet in a cartridge will chamber freely, and try that.
Can I suggest a harder bullet? Most of the scrap you will find has some antimony, and with the addition of a small amount of Tin, even air cooled it will be a lot harder. Drop the bullet from the mold into a 5-gallon bucket of water and it will be much harder yet.
IME, harder is entirely unnecessary. Better lube is a great idea, concur on NRA 50-50. Start with
known good lube.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I'd change lubes, too, plus I'd try a faster powder.
What other lubes are out there besides LLA? Pretty much all of the other lubes besides LLA that I've seen are the hard lubes for lubrasizers.
I have some bullseye powder, I guess I could give that a try too.
Sounds like you have the usual suspects in 9mm covered.... youve slugged the bore and bullets are a couple thou oversized, you've checked a loaded round for the brass squishing your boolits down.... which was my problem when i was chasing my tail on 9mm leading.
I had a similar problem to your when I picked my M&P shield a year ago..... all my other 9s shot well with no leading using lead bullets sized to 358 with 45/45/5 lube. I use a 38 SW Lee powder thu expander and FCD with the carbide ring knocked out. I load with WSF. The Shield leaded and leaded badly.
Problem was the crown on my barrel.....small burrs all the way around. I recrowned the barrel and the leading went away.
If your leading at the end of the barrel.... check your crown. Your problem MIGHT NOT be your boolits.
"What is there besides LLA?" Oh, good grief! This mule snot, marginal junk is
a continuous headache for lots of people. I despise the smelly, sticky stuff
and have not had any good results, but did not try many times due to the mess,
sticky ammo and nasty smell. Many have succeeded with this system, but many have
also failed and moved on to conventional lube systems which are much more
developed and robust.
Now we have somehow gotten to the point where new folks think this is the
only thing, rather than, at best, the village idiot of lubes.
OK - sorry for the rant. Here is the explanation for those that have
only been introduced to casting with the Lee mule snot (LLA) system.
THE standard lube that has been pretty much the starting point in
years past is called NRA 50-50, which is a mix of Alox ???? and beeswax.
The Alox is related to LLA, but with beeswax it is much better and
is applied with a lubrisizer to only put the lube in the lube grooves, not
all over the whole danged boolit like the nasty LLA stuff. (forgot the alox
number above, put in ???)
Please learn a bit about a lubrisizer and normal lubes. You can avoid
the cost of the lubrisizer by 'pan lubing' - look it up, lots of folks have
info on it here. You can use a Lee push thru (inexpensive) sizer with
pan lubing, and not have the sticky stuff all over the boolit, plus much
better lube quality and quantity.
There are many other lube recipes, but NRA 50-50 is a "known good"
lube and should be the starting point for every new caster. Once you have
it working, then you can go off the reservation and try other lubes, and
the LLA stuff, too. It is great to experiment, but it should be after you
are making good ammo.
LLA is a marginal lube system and 9mm is a PITA with cast, and throw in
LLA with 9mm and you have a LOT of failures and a lot of new casters
struggling when they could be succeeding.
If you want a straight shot at success, here it is: buy a Lee 356-120-TC mold, cast
with straight WWT alloy, size to .358 and lube with NRA 50-50 (many brands out there
of this standard lube). You will succeed, almost certainly.
Bill
Last edited by MtGun44; 03-15-2013 at 12:01 AM.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Have you checked what your bullets diameter is after seating it into a case? Might be you need to expand the case (via an expander die), not the bullets. .356 works flawlessly in my glock with aftermarket barrel, I also expand the case ID to .355"
If you don't solve it just remove the lead periodically. The two things that work good for me is the Lewis Lead remover from Brownells or a copper chore boy. Also what seems to help is to shoot a jacketed bullet every so often.
"The purpose of the law is not to prevent a future offense, but to punish the one actually committed" — Ayn Rand
I'm working with a 9mm now. My barrel slugs at .356". I sized 100 rds at .357 and tested them. Had slight leading that took about half a dozen strokes with a copper bore brush to clean out after 100 rds. I will try a few things but it should not take much to fix the slight leading that I had. My boolits were only about a week old and I air cooled so aging the boolits may correct it. I may need to go up on size a bit. I may need to go to a slower powder.
I sure miss the days when I could step out the back door of my shop and test loads. Now I have to drive 40 minutes to get to a range.
But if I were you, I would slug the barrel again and check the diameter with a micrometer
Another thing that I would check after you have verified the bore diameter is correct is to make a dummy round. Pull the dummy round and see if the brass is sizing your boolits down.
I had this problem and wound up having to use an expander for a 38/357.
Your alloy is pretty soft at 50/50 WW/Pure. I'd leave the pure out.
Are you using a Lee FCD? This "can" cause problems using cast boolits.
On edit: I completly missed the second page of this thread and see most of what I said has been covered.
I agree with changing the lube. But I believe that I would change boolit style first. Get a boolit with a lube groove and pan lube if you can't foot a sizer and get a Lee push through sizer. I've used several and they work well.
Last edited by Down South; 03-15-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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Sam
Dogs poop and barrels lead.. How much depends on how or what you feed them
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