This one does it all. I don't have a dull knife in my collection. It came highly recommended by members here 2-3 months ago on a similar thread.
Ramar
http://www.worksharptools.com/sports....tabs.tpl.html
This one does it all. I don't have a dull knife in my collection. It came highly recommended by members here 2-3 months ago on a similar thread.
Ramar
http://www.worksharptools.com/sports....tabs.tpl.html
I've tried several different gimmicks including the somewhat expensive lansky with no joy. I always return to good whet stones/oil stones. The big smith tri hone is good with a leather strop. The long twin crock sticks that are discontinued are very good also.
If you have the cash a tormek sharpener is hard to beat. I paid for mine by sharpening for others.
I've always preferred flat bench type stones. It doesn't sharpen recurved or serrated blades too well, but as far as getting good aligned edges with the best geometry they are hard to beat. Try out a DMT duosharp or other diamond stone.
I did the same thing as Ramar and bought this on the recommendations in a previous thread. I am perfectly competent in making a razor edge with water stones, using my Lansky, or using a small ceramic cross stick pocket sharpener for a touch up. Frankly this one looked a little gimmicky but I trusted my fellow booliteers and am glad I did. I sharpened every knife I could find (30, 40?, a bunch!) in no time. A working edge can be had on the dullest knife in 30 seconds. My wife was estatic. I highly recommend.
"Is all this REALLY necessary?"
I like my Lansky, it lets me put a perfect edge on new or abused knives, then a steel or stone depending on how dull i let them get is all it takes after that! I enjoy the edge i can get with a good heavy bench stone, but i still have to concentrate pretty hard to keep my angles, with the Lansky i can set a good angle first then do quicker touch ups on a stone.
I still want to try the method i read about on here a while back that uses wet sandpaper on my marble slab to get them scary sharp.
Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
Why does a man with a 7mag never panic buy? Because a man with a 7mag has no need to panic!
"If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith
Paper wheels, not easy to use, and downright dangerous if not used properly.
But gave best edge the quickest bar none..
Info can be found on web.
YEAH BUDDY!
Expensive; but I've sharpened damned near everything in the house but the morning paper. Gouges, chisels, kitchen knives, hunting knives, hatchets, scissors etc..
You can setup the desired angle you grind with the included tool.
I looked at mine as a long term investment to avoid dealing with dull tools.
http://www.tormek.com/en/machines/t7/index.php
Last edited by PbHurler; 02-26-2013 at 02:00 PM.
Bob
My sharpening experience is nonsense, and deals with lawnmower blades. I got mad enough using these typical blades to apply carbide to the cutting edges and grinding that stuff sharp. The blacksmith told me the how-to process at his shop and I proceeded to do it even after his warning not to. Well, I found out within 10 minutes after the blade was put back on the mower. The blade hit a small unseen rock and guess what? A whole big chunk of blade broke off for the reasons explained by the smithy. Carbided blades are only for draglines, plows, road graders, and all things operating at comparatively ZERO speed, and NOTHING else. ... felix
felix
I'm horrible with a stone. A lot of that has to do with impatience and needing it sharp right away. I run into this more with self feeding drill bits that I'm proficient at sharpening on the job with a file. They always seem to be dull when I need them.
I recently purchased a Gatco sharpening set. It works exactly like the Lansky. But you have more angle options. It's extremely easy to use and takes the skill out of sharpening a knife. All you have to do is follow the directions and you have a sharp knife in minutes. If all you're doing is touch up it takes seconds. I don't need my knives to be razor sharp. And I don't have the time to develop the skill to do it freehand on a stone.
There are seven members of the knife sharpening guild I belong to. Six of them use the Tormek. Yes, it is expensive but they are good machines. I believe Jet is making a knock off.
Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.
I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.
Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.
The Spyderco sharp maker is the one thing I can use to get a good sharp knife. I've been using one for about fifteen years now and going strong. The Lansky is a good system I just never could get a super sharp edge with one but it's not the sharpener it's the user in my case. Fb
Tennessee Sticks. I don't think they are made anymore but can be found on evilbay. They are simple and easy to use. I won't use any other sharpener now.
I pity the baker,
I pity the nun
I pity the one
Who tries to take my gun
I had a Lansky many years ago but I got good enough with a tri-hone, steel and strop to put a shaving edge on anything I had. Then I purchased a knife made from D2, that thing is so hard I broke down and got another Lansky. I have a very sharp edge on it now, scary sharp, and it seems to be lasting for ever.
Lansky's are very good for what they are designed to do. I have one of the first, purchased at a gun show in Detroit in the late 70's. The down fall of their system is, that with repeated use the stones get a belly in them and loose their efficiency. The DMT version with the diamond stones address this issue.
Winelover
For the Tormek owners, any recomendations for where to purchase?
Do not let your knife get blunt dull, hit it with a steel every so often. I use several of my grandfathers knives, and his large steel to keep them cutting. I know most are at least 100yrs old. No I do not cut bolts and then slice a tomato, but I can hit any of them on the steel a few times and slice thin slices of any edible commodity with no problem.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |