Tru oil on the plastic tip of a stock

[xd4584]

Will this work? I'm doing a stock with a plastic tip and I just ordered 32oz of tru oil I would like to use up

[mac60]

32 oz. of tru oil is enough to do quite a few stocks (I don't know - a few dozen). It should work fine. Is the stock a Remington?

[Hardcast416taylor]

Unless you`ve scratched up the forend tip by sanding there is no need to put the finish on it. You`ll be set with Tru-oil for the rest of your natural life with that much. Store the bottle upside down on the cap to prevent it hardening in the bottle after you`ve used it.Robert

[xd4584]

Thanks guys. The tip was scratched up when I received it. Got it from numrich. I lucked out its a very nice piece of walnut. Has some burls in it. Ther was a small crack but I repaired that already. Def worth the $17 I paid for it! This is the fore end.

This is for a remington 7600. I have a walnut thumb hole stock for it that I made some adjustments to. When I got the stock it was close to hunting season so I just did a quick sand job and threw some stain and poly on it. Now 7 years later I'm finally getting around to doing it right.
I ordered a new fore end because the factory one had stamped checkering. I'm planning to get a checkering set and do both the stock and fore end... Someday...

I've used tru oil on two stocks and I love the way it makes the wood look. I did my brother in laws old marlin 25. I think it was a maple stock. It looked like a $75 gun before... After I bead blasted it and put some tru oil on it, it's a whole nother story! I also did a mossberg 185 stock which turned out nice but I should have sanded it a little more... Now I have no use for that stock.

I'm gonna do my 7600, then I have a stock I'm working on for my 917 and after that ill probably redo my nef 12 gauge single shot. It was my first gun and it was used hard hunting squirrels. I don't use it anymore but I'd like to make it look new again so in 10 years it can be my sons first gun.

Has anyone used tru oil on a laminant stock?

[FLHTC]

A product called Gel Gloss works wonders on gloss Brownings and Remingtons. Its used for fiberglass and molded counter tops. Great stuff. Tru Oil probably won't last as plastic isn't absorbant like wood. Id smooth it with 600 grit or finer and polish it with Gel Gloss, tape it off and then use Tru Oil

[Ifishsum]

I used Tru-Oil once on an unfinished Pepper Laminate stock - it was supposed to be grey but it turned out with a definitely green tinge to it. I don't know if it was an old bottle or what but it had a definite yellowish color to it. And the stock came out a lot glossier than I wanted it. Kind of turned me off to Tru-Oil. The last stock I did was a T/C Hawken muzzleloader, it was a very nice piece of walnut but had a cheap finish on it. After sanding I used straight BLO on that one, many thin coats over several weeks time and then I let it cure for a couple of months. It came out with a gorgeous satin finish that really shows off the wood, easily my best one ever. It's also a lot tougher finish than I thought it would be, I haven't managed to scratch it yet. No stickiness whatsoever.

[xd4584]

I was kinda hoping for the green tint. I have a laminant stock from Richards microfit. It's the wildcat thumbhole with the rosewood tip and cap but its blue and grey... It was $20 on Craigslist so I couldn't let it go. I just don't like the blue

[Hardcast416taylor]

A way to NOT have the high shine to a Tru oil finished stock is to let the stock dry for 24 hr. between coats. Before putting on the next coat lightly go over the entire stock with 0000 steel wool lightly. Do this before each application. Of course you must wipe the stock down before putting each coat on. After you have put on as many coats as you are going to do, do the steel wool wipe down again. This final going over knocks down the deep shine that was building up and left you with a semi gloss finish.Robert

[gnoahhh]

Fore go the 0000 steel wool between coats. I suggest 600 or 800grit paper instead. Two things about steel wool: First, if it's 'hardware store' grade wool, it has oil in it to prevent rusting which may effect the finish you're using. Best to degrease it by soaking in acetone, or better yet spend the premium it takes for non-oiled cabinetmakers grade steel wool. I use Liberon brand. Google it. Second, try as you might, I guarantee that little tiny pieces of it are breaking off when you rub a walnut stock, so small you need a magnifying glass to see. The chance for some of them to remain stuck to the wood is great, and will announce their presence with little brown rust spots the first time it gets damp. Not always, but often enough that I swore off using steel wool for stock finishing long ago.

It seems TruOil is the darling of the home gunsmith crowd these days. Probably due to its omnipresence in every gun store and catalog. There are better finishes out there. Do some research on different finishes and see if something jumps out at you. If you insist on using an 'oil' finish, then at least plan on following up with a good paste wax. The wax will provide the moisture barrier that is lacking with 'oil' finishes. If you don't believe me, do a test finish on a piece of scrap walnut as if it were a gunstock and set it out side for a while. Remember, what you get out of a wood finish is equal to what you put into it. A world class finish requires many, many, hours of labor.

[xd4584]

I am trying for a high gloss finish. The barrel and action are polished.

Would fine scotch brite work instead of the steel wool?

I had originally poly urethaned the stock. I only used the true oil on two stocks before and I couldn't believe how nice it looked. The new stuff i got seems to be a lot thinner than the bottle I used on those other two stocks though. That bottle sat around for prolly 5 years though before I used it.

I was going to have my brother clear coat the stock with automotive clear coat but I read that it won't stick to the stock after using tru oil

[Goatwhiskers]

xd, some years ago I bought a Handi with a clear finish laminate wood. Took the the thing straight home and stripped the finish. Put some walnut dye in alcohol and wiped down the wood, brought out the grain in each layer. Finished with about 10 coats of Tru-Oil, steel wool between coats, then finished with rubbing compound. A truly fantastic finish if I do say so myself. GW

[o6Patient]

I flat out don't like the fact that any of these finishes like true oil are not moisture proof.
You might as well have gone to the local hardware and bought some minwax antique oil
finish..it won't be waterproof either. Laurel Mountain Permalyn is a far better choice.
As gnoahhh said : put the wax to it after it's done.

[trainfever]

For a nice satin finish, after burnishing the stock with either steel wool or sand paper, pour a small amout of tru oil into your hand and then use your hand to give the stock a nice hand rubbed finish. After you are done, baby oil works great for cleaning tru oil off your hands. Its also good for cleaning any oil based paint or finish from your hands. Its eaasier on your hands then any commercial remover. My first job out of high school was at a paint and stain factory, the old timers there taught me to hand rub furniture and the trick about baby oil instead of paint thinner or turpentine to clean my hands. It really works.