Newbie to Casting

[tenneesse]

I would like to pour some 9mm and can someone point me to mold preparation instruction? I will use a Lee mold that I do not have yet. 115gr swc

I was looking at a co-shooters molds today one is used and one is NIB.

Both had hanging burrs at the opening of the cavities (2) and (6). The used mold was very dirty he explained the crud on the faces was typical after a mold is used, lube. The new one had obvious fresh hanging burrs around the opening of the cavities where the cutter passed over the opening leaving the burrs hang.

I guess I need to know how to remove the burrs, fine round stick stone? (Im expecting this is a typical occurrence on a new mold and what is the procedure for "Lubing" a mold? What parts should be lubed and should the mold mating faces be free of lube, his were covered. Should a mold be cleaned after use, how, acetone?

What should I use to "smoke" the mold before pouring.

Ive been looking for a "how to get you new mold ready to pour and how to keep it running" thread. there must be one??

[DrCaveman]

Check out the stickies involving lee, that should help a bunch.

Seems most here do not adhere to Lee's suggested mold prep methods. Check the lee-menting thread to see the possible 'best' method. No smoking, burrs are removed by basically polishing the cavities if I am not mistaken.

My quick rundown (though I am far from an expert): remove mold from box. Boil in water for about 10 minutes. Dry. Shoot brake cleaner all over and scrub everything with toothbrush. Rinse with soap & water, again scrubbing with toothbrush. Dry. Heat mold on top of furnace. Once warm, apply 3-1 oil (many can prob offer better lube options) to alignment pins/bars, and sprue plate screw. Oil will seep under sprue plate but I usually give it a little wipe anyway.

Light lubing. Pour a few boolits, until you get crisp edges and base. Let mold & boolits cool as you get your comet cleaner, screws, drill, and drill bit ready. Polish cavities as per lee-menting. Rinse well, repeat lubing process.

Pour away, boolits will be rounder and drop better.

I don't do anything after casting to maintain my aluminum molds. Iron requires more care. I prob re-lube my molds every other time that I use them.

Others can probably poke holes in this, but it is easy and working for me... So far.

[tenneesse]

I read the Lee-Menting thread its really well done.

Question:The 2 surfaces or cavities halves, the faces that contact when the mould is closed there is nothing that should be applied to those surfaces should there? I see them as remaining clean is that correct? the reason Im asking is that the guys molds I saw were covered in he lube cruddy. I didnt say anything.

That thread about preping is really good. One more question when lubing the mold it should only require a tiny bit of lube right. alignment pins and sprue hinge?

[MT Chambers]

All that should be required of a new mold is a good cleaning,soap and hot water and/or something without residue like brake cleaner. Removing burrs should not be required on a new mold!

[runfiverun]

on a lee mold i use a Q-tip and anti-sieze.
the anti-sieze goes on the female side of the alignment pins.
and after i cut the sprue i wipe some over the top while the boolits are still in the cavity's.
i apply before each use of the mold and as i see fit during a run.
other stuff like 2 stroke oil works just fine also.

i will do a few heat cycles and a clean-up light lapping of a mold before making a big run.
new molds shouldn't require this stuff but they most often do, especially 23 dollar ones.

[DrCaveman]

Tennesee

I apply a very very light touch of oil to the faces you are talking about. A dab at one place, smeared around with my finger. I think it helps a hot aluminum mold to not stick together, but I may be wrong.

Anyway, my molds get a bit browned along the faces, no bg deal. As long as they close proper, and there is no change to boolit dropping, I am happy. I also think that the (occasional) lead fin left n the face is easier to remove if you have lubed there. Not that this should happen much.

Yes, in all instances, a very small amount of lube is fine. You'll know you applied too much when your boolits are wrinkled for about 5 more drops after you are up to temp.

[Echo]

Most folks here use Bullplate, which was sold by a forum member (Bullshop). I have a 4-ounce bottle tha is a lifetime supply, and then some. In any case, my recommendation is to use it, or a suitable substitue, sparingly, on the locators. sprue plate hinge, and bottom of the sprue plate and top of mold blocks, wiping off any excess, excess being any you can wipe off. NONE in cavities or mold faces!

[tenneesse]

thanks guys,

The new mold I was looking at was a 6 cavity and the hanging burrs were very evident. Not a big deal I suppose for the cost an hour of prep is tolerable. It was just machining debris.

I'll look into some of the lub you spoke of.

Thanks again

[Echo]

No question in my mind that lee-menting can turn this mold into a real production device. Do it, and let us know how it turns out.

[MtGun44]

Strongly recommend Lee 356-120 TC conventional lube design, sized .357 or .358,
with NRA 50-50 lube for 9mm success. Use air cooled wwt alloy, maybe add a bit
of tin to improve fill out if needed.

Bullshop sells Bull Plate lube, TINY amount for lubing alignment features and bottom
of sprue plate. Do not use boolit lube as recommend by Lee, burns to nasty
guck.

Scrub a new Lee mold cavity with a toothbrush and Comet to clean and lightly deburr.

Do not smoke mold cavity.

The standard answer to Newbie Caster question #1 (after casting): "Because
you mold is dirty and/or too cold." Keep that in mind.

This may help.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-in-a-new-9mm

Bill