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Thread: Best .357 mag boolit mould for a beginner

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    JWFilips's Avatar
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    Best .357 mag boolit mould for a beginner

    Hi all It's just me again asking more advise:
    I'm really getting the bug to start casting myself Just finished reading all of "from Ingot to Target" absolutly fascinating book. If & when I do start I would like to get my first mould for my two S&W revolvers ( A pre-27 & a 19-3) Since I do mostly paper punching at 25 yards I would like it to be a boolit I could load light for accurate target work at 25 (& maybe 50 yards if I get ambitious) also if it could bring down small game critters that would be go too. Since my pre-27 has .359" throats I would like it to cast larger then .358" so more like .359"-.360"
    I heard some moulds can be shot as cast which would be ideal but if I had to size I would most likely start with an inexpensive Lee sizer for my reloading press for now.

    Can anyone recommend a bullet style and brand of mould that would meet my criteria above? Please keep in mind I have never cast a modern bullet ( But plenty of round ball by the campfire) so I'm totally lost when it comes to all those bullet numbers that folks rattle off. I'm learning but it is a slow process ( & maybe some day I would love to cast Elmer Keith's Ideal 358439! that is one I will remember) Also I will be starting out casting on a tight budget ( until this economy improves)

    So For now I'm find myself "Cast boolit challenged" but I'm working on a cure (with all your help)
    Thanks
    " Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington

  2. #2
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    I like the RCBS 38-150 SWC or the 358-477 Lyman, both are 150 odd grain SWC's with short enough noses to function well in your older Magnum, and either will work in the model 19. I am sure someone will leap up and mention the 358-429 that Elmer Keith Designed, but it is not a good choice for the short-cylinder .357, at least not in magnum brass. The Lee Sizer will work just fine and you can tumble lube ANY boolit, not just the tumble lube designs. Although many will suggest Lee molds, I find them better suited to the more experienced caster than for the novice. It takes some experience to force yourself to cast fast enough to keep those aluminum boogers running hot enough to get good boolits. However, once you get the hang of it, you can pile up good boolits in a hurry, but you can't stop and smell the roses (or check out the neat boolits you just cast) along the way.
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  3. #3
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    There are so many good designs for the .357, I started with the Lyman 358429 "Keith" and a wadcutter myself. That said for what you want to do I would highly recommend the Lee 158 tumble lube SWC to start. It's kind of an ugly duckling but shoots well for me in 3 rifles and 3 pistols and I shoot unsized at .359 in all and lubed with 45-45-10. I would have never bought this mold or tumble lubed but a buddy gave it to me and it has become one of my favorites and a real eye opener. For real heavy accurate magnum loads it's hard to beat 358429 and 296/H110 but the lee TLSWC is a better .38 bullet and just a great all around cast,lube, shoot bullet. Good luck whatever you choose.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

  4. #4
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    I have been loading the tumble lube 158 grain round nose for my model 19 and model 27 257 have also used a 158 grain swc non tumble lube design another lee mould , both shoot well and no issues as to fit , lee also makes a round flat design that I plan on trying

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy SCIBUL's Avatar
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    The round flat design is fine, but the lubing groove is a little swallow. It shoots very well indeed. I also have the tumble rn design, the keith one and the rcbs swc. The last one is my favorite with hot loads in my 27 and blackhawk.

  6. #6
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    The lee TL358-158-SWC sounds like it would be a good fit for what your looking to do. I don't have many lee molds. I ended up with this one through a trade and gave it a go. They cast with my alloy between .3585 and .3590. They shot fine, but I'm not a big fan of tumble lubing. My favorite mold for my 357's is an old Lyman 357443 4 banger. The Lyman drops these at .3590. I have found these to be very accurate in my S&W 28, 19, and 686.

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    pm sent

  8. #8
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    I will suggest the Lee 148 grain wadcutter. I have the non-tumble lube version, 2-cavity, which drops at about .360.

    Another nice boolit is the TL358-158SWC, already mentioned. I have a six-cav of this one and I love it. I load it from 750 to 1000 fps. Both of these I shoot out of my S&W 66 .357.

    Both of these bullets are extremely accurate.
    Last edited by Boolseye; 12-29-2012 at 09:45 AM.

  9. #9
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    While the Keith 358429 is a wonderful design, most versions of it will NOT work
    in a S&W N-frame .357 due to the short cylinder, unless you seat deep and
    crimp above the crimp groove. I strongly recommend the 358477 or RCBS
    38-150-K, now called 38-150-SWC which is nearly identical the the 358477.

    Size to throat diam or throat +.001" and lube with a known good lube like
    NRA 50-50 or LBT soft blue (others are known) and you should do well.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  10. #10
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    Would any one know who is selling the new updated versions of these Lee molds at this time?
    I noticed that Midway was out of stock but expecting more soon & I wonder if it will be the new improved version with the improved alignment pins Also has anyone had experiences with the custom version of these Lee moulds that hollowpoint.com is selling that are HP'ed Or are these a no no for a beginner
    " Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington

  11. #11
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    358477 works great in my 686 with 13.5 gr of 2400
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JWFilips View Post
    Would any one know who is selling the new updated versions of these Lee molds at this time?
    I noticed that Midway was out of stock but expecting more soon & I wonder if it will be the new improved version with the improved alignment pins Also has anyone had experiences with the custom version of these Lee moulds that hollowpoint.com is selling that are HP'ed Or are these a no no for a beginner
    I would recommend starting with just plain old solid molds. Mold and alloy temperature are important to good bullets and as a beginner you will have your hands full maintaining a good pace to keep temps even for good fill out. I think you would be better off to keep it simple till you can make good quality solid bullets. By then you will have some experience and at that time add in the additional steps required for HP molds. You need to be able to walk before you run.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

  13. #13
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    I"ll go with Bill and the others...........the 358477
    is very versatile and is super accurate. The 477'
    would be a great mold for a beginner ( or seasoned
    veteran ) in the 357 Mag.

    Ben

  14. #14
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    I`ll throw in with the 477 & the Lee 158rnfp . The Lee is easy to get to temp & to cast with , the only drawback for the lee is it has a small bevel on the base whereas the 477 is flat .
    GP100man

  15. #15
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    If I were starting all over again and casting for my Model 27s I would also choose the RCBS 38-150-SWC.
    These are well made iron molds that cast beautiful bullets quite easily. The latest examples are especially nice !

    Jerry
    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  16. #16
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    I am another in favor of the 358477 or 150 RCBS. If that bullet will not shoot in a 38 over a book load of unique the problem is not the load.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  17. #17
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    +1 for the RCBS 38-150 SWC. That was the 2nd mould I bought when I started casting. Works well for 38 Spl plinkers to 357 stiff loads. IIRC, NOE did a group buy run for this style boolit a while back. Perhaps it is in stock...and NOE moulds run to the size they state, usually .360 for the 38 cal pistol moulds. Plus they come with the correct nose punch, and cast like a dream.
    "Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil." Doug Patton


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  18. #18
    Boolit Master DrCaveman's Avatar
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    I had a pretty easy time getting the lee 158 rnfp running nicely at full-tilt loads. As mentioned above, the lube groove is pretty shallow but it seems to be adequate for me when using Darr lube. Seating depth (and resultant oal) is favorable for your m27 and the holes punched in paper are pretty clean.

    Its got a heck of a meplat (good for hunting and general tissue damage) and a decent BC for longer range... Say 50-75 yds. Or longer for those who dabble but I use rifles beyond 50 yds.

    I size them to 358 with lee push through and they work great in my 19-3 and ruger gp100. About 14 gr 2400 has been my favorite though the h110 loads showed promise.

    I personally like the beveled base for ease of fast reloading. I suppose I am not quite a good enough shooter to notice any inherent difference, but my guess is that we are probably talking about 3/4" accuracy difference at 25 yds. Minor.

    Hope that helps. If you go the lee route (new or 'old') I recommend lee-menting. At least polishing the cavities.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master rsrocket1's Avatar
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    I bought the Lee 358-158-RF 6 cavity mold and love it. Using 6 cavity molds with a 4-20 bottom pour produces lots of nice boolits in a very short amount of time. I tumble lube with Recluse's 45/45/10 and load them up unsized with anywhere from 2.5g Clays in a .38 case for 650 fps powder puff load when teaching my kids to shoot up to 8g Power Pistol for 1160 fps "big bang" loads (Ruger Service Six 4" barrel).

    Here is a picture of the bullet as cast and after tumble lubed. I used too much lube the first time and it pooled in the lube groove, you only need enough to put a light amber haze on the boolit. Anyway, it shows the nice big metplat of the boolit.
    Attachment 57166

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Wow, You Guys are great. So much good information. From what I can see by these post at least I'm thinking the same way. The only name I'm unfamiliar with is NOE How do I contact them?

    Once I settle on my first mould all I guess I would need is a good source for pure lead since I have a bunch of 50/50 ingots here to blend in.
    I have seen some guys on e-bay selling pure lead Are those guys on e-bay ok or Will I get ripped off? Is there a better source? I do have a bunch of pure lead drain pipe I got from an old 1800's farm house. Has a lot of white corrosion on the insides I guess that will float up in the dross?
    Thank you all
    & Happy New Year
    Jim
    " Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check