i was thinking of alum for just that reason. i guess you could put foil over the block you were thinking of and punch the tips in the foil for conductivity
i was thinking of alum for just that reason. i guess you could put foil over the block you were thinking of and punch the tips in the foil for conductivity
Healing hurts. It is supposed to.
RED HORSE US Air Force
Olaf455 mine is lr308 also best results so far with 310 sized pure & 2.5 sb. I use a wfn cb so all I need is a grid to keep upright. I'like to try heating first and then spraying the PC on. I suspect you are right, it can be thinned with water.
Just a quick question as I wait for the bbt to deliver my coating supplies. Are you attaching the ground electrode to the aluminum foil or the plate/broiler pan under it?
The foil works quite well from the many posts I have read.
Sheep Dog
Minutman
Boyscout
Contructionist
Patriot
Def the foil. Trying warming the boolits just a bit. It will help to get a nice even coat. Just barely warm to the touch.
Thanks guys, I got a little confused when I read the incstructions on the powder coating gun saying to cover parts with foil that you did not want coated... I thought it might be an insulator. I'm quite looking forward to trying this out once the rest of my materials get here.
The idea of flipping the boolit and getting a nice smooth coating on the base is real attractive in simulating a FMJ or GC. But how would you keep the "fillet" of baked powder from forming near the tip of the boolit where it rests in the jig? That isn't something that would be smoothed out with a trip through a sizing die like a fillet at the base would.
never dealt with pc before. trying to figure that part myself
Healing hurts. It is supposed to.
RED HORSE US Air Force
The first guy to figure out how to balance a lead round nose on the pointy end of a nail long enough to coat and bake it wins 16 Trillion internet points. Make me proud!
Hollow points is what i have been thinkin, you could weld nails to a piece of steel. Cover the steel and most of the nails with hi temp tape. Just leave the tip of the nail exposed to rest the bullet on. This should acually work great. I dont have a hollow point mold but if someone wants to send me a few i will try it out.
I predicted your treachery and carefully laid out my challenge for LRN's only. You'll also notice I said "balance" so you wouldn't be tempted to impale the boolit onto the pointed end of the nail with a framing hammer.
Internet point payment denied!
The "bed of nails" thing is where I was headed as well. Maybe some carefully-crafted and insulated jig made from hardware cloth snipped open to just contact the boolit side at a couple tiny points would hold a non-hollowpoint upside down for coating.
Just guessing, but base irregularity is worse than tip, for accuracy. The pics I've seen of recovered CB show the base band strength is the most important. If the 'fillet' is just forward of the front drive band or in the crimp groove, it shouldn't make a difference. You can't size the nose anyway. I doubt if they use soap in the fluid as it would leave a residue in the PC when baked. Maybe antifreeze, as it is the base for many of the plastics? I think my plan is to wet spray nose down on PB CBs @ 150F, then put them in the oven @ 350F. I think my old air brush has a large enough orifice to handle the powder. Now I just have to find it - haven't seen it since I was doing N gauge trains for my kid - like 30 yrs ago. Otherwise I have a HVLP cup gun I can use. Try 2 pieces of MDF, one with holes and one without. Foil in between, and grounded.
Anyone gotten sub-3-moa accuracy from these guys?
Needless to say, Santa Claus has been asked for the HF PC kit!
Molds I have:
Lee 457-340-F (.45-70 340gn)
Lee TL452-230-2R (.45ACP 230gn)
Lee TL356-124-2R (9mm/357Mag/38Spl 124gn)
Lee C309-150-F (30-30, 7.62x39 150gn FNGC)
Lee Key Drive 12ga 1oz Slug (12ga 438gn)
RCBS 45-255-SWC (45LC/45Colt 255gr Keith)
Lyman 429 244 (44Mag 255gn)
Lyman 429 215 (44Mag 215gn)
SkiesUnlimited #4Buck/#00Buck
magnetically applied - how'd you do that? I assume you used the liquid with the airbrush. I HT COWW with shot added for my lr-308 carbine. With PC I think sizing should be the more important aspect of accuracy.it is no different than if you had magnetically applied the powder. Any touch wipes it off... Then I tried an airbrush and it worked well, however it is difficult to coat evenly.
rather than magnetically applied, I should have said electrostaticly applied. As in the normal way of applying powder coat with a gun.
Sent from a cold damp basement near you.
Sheep Dog
Minutman
Boyscout
Contructionist
Patriot
My other question involves feeding the HF PC gun with air--manual states 3.5 CFM at 30 PSIg is max air consumption and my compressor is little.
What's the smallest compressor being used to apply the powder through the HF gun?
Molds I have:
Lee 457-340-F (.45-70 340gn)
Lee TL452-230-2R (.45ACP 230gn)
Lee TL356-124-2R (9mm/357Mag/38Spl 124gn)
Lee C309-150-F (30-30, 7.62x39 150gn FNGC)
Lee Key Drive 12ga 1oz Slug (12ga 438gn)
RCBS 45-255-SWC (45LC/45Colt 255gr Keith)
Lyman 429 244 (44Mag 255gn)
Lyman 429 215 (44Mag 215gn)
SkiesUnlimited #4Buck/#00Buck
As far as I can tell, even your typical 2hp, 4 gal pancake compressor used for shooting brad nails can push 3-4 CFM at 90psi. 30psi shouldn't be much problem. The powder really just mists out of the gun in a relatively pathetic puff compared to wet spraying with a cup gun.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |