And here I thought lithibee was simple.
i use teaspoons [real measuring type] and they are flat level.
don't be afraid to add another spoonfull of vaseline or one of the oils to suit your wax.
Don:
i thought about some ivory for a bit, but i don't think you'll need the higher melt temp.
like i said this is minimal on the oils,and will more likely need to be modified for the low end.
the standard 2-3% carnuba will take it up a notch on the temp scale too.
but the mix is on the verge of needing heat to flow in a lubesizer now.
mdi:
that was an inside joke from gear and my response with the alox was a poke back.
we have tossed so many lube recipes around this year it ain't funny.
i still have a short list of them i need to make and test.
and i have 4 sitting in jars waiting in the wings that i haven't shot yet.
one with ivory and soy wax, another moly lube, and a lithium-12 stearated micro-wax.
r5r, Thanks for the clarification re oil quantities and modification. I've got 4 oz. of beeswax measured out, and have the other ingredients on hand, so I'll be brewing some in the next day of so. The only thing holding me back is finding another stainless steel bowl to use, but not to worry, as I've already negotiated that with SWMBO.
Bear fat is too valuable to use as a lube ingredient. Render it down for lard!What ever happened to bear fat?
What would the effect be if one used a synthetic transmission fluid and replaced the two stroke oil with it - ie used 4tsps of tranny fluid?
We need somebody/something to keep the government (cops and bureaucrats too) HONEST (by non government oversight).
Every "freedom" (latitude) given to government is a loophole in the rule of law. Every loophole in the rule of law is another hole in our freedom. When they even obey the law that is. Too often government seems to feel itself above the law.
We forgot to take out the trash in 2012, but 2016 was a charm! YESSS!
i haven't tried the synth trans fluid.
it should be similar but it would be slipperyer. [is that even a word?]
remember a too slippery lube is not condusive to accuracy,you do need some friction between the lube and bore.
you could divide everything by 8 and make enough to hand lube a small sample and try it.
R5R, how do you think this lube would compare to FWFL? I love that stuff because it seems like there is an unending number of boolits that I can shoot without needing to clean. Could this be comparable?
Your description of the tackyness seems similar to FWFL.
Do you think you can shoot this stuff as fast as FWFL?
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
tim:
i have never used actual felix lube so i can't really compare.
i have polymerized stuff but not mineral oil and castor oil.
castor oil is a good lubricant but it is also a plant "fat" and it has some undesirable characeristics much like carnuba has in the cold.
this has the tacky that felix has but is a titch firmer.
some extra vaseline will smooth and soften the lube.
a little more atf adds a bit more glide.
and the 2 stroke adds just a smidge more glide, but is consumed when burned, it is what gets the lube flowing when the round is fired.
the small amount of lanolin adds more flexibility and a titch more tackyness.
you could try adding a teaspoon full of castor oil in place of one of the atf.
now many of the 2 stroke oils might still contain some castor oil [the one i use doesn't]
i have fired a pretty good amount of these now through the wifes 0-6 without cleaning the bbl, so far the only thing i have seen is some powder fouling.
the antimonial wash i was getting before with a lithi-bee type lube is gone now.
i'm gonna give the rifle a few more days then push a dry patch down the bbl and see how it feels.
i have been just stopping by and shooting a group of 20 or so on my way up hunting the last few days.
and things have been consistent from day to day.
i was shooting the same target day after day till someone pulled it down and put up a new one yesterday.
This sounds silly, but I'm dead serious. How does this stuff smell when mixing/heating? I made up a batch of Ben's Red and SWMBO flat told me never again. I live in a mobile home park and vile odors seemingly are not countenanced.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
rintinglen, I made a batch yesterday, heating it on a hot plate in my basement. The odor is predominantly one of beeswax, but adding the 2-cycle oil and ATF changes it to a hot oil scent. Not vile or overpowering, but you can't help but notice it. Btw, it wasn't noticeable upstairs, and my wife never commented on it when she entered the basement.
it smells a lot better than alox...
my smeller don't work very well but the womens does and i had no comments from them when i made it either.
i think a lot of it is time.
it's melted wax, then a cooling off lube just like that.
let us know what you think maven.
and what changes you made for your b-wax
I think I'm going to have to try this one out. I'm all about simple and this one is simple.
Just got to get me some more beeswax, I'm out.
r5r, I followed the recipe exactly, including the addition of 1/4 tsp. anhydrous lanolin. At present it's in a plastic bag on my work bench thawing out as I used the wrong stainless bowl to brew it in. (My wife wanted it back. I put it in the freezer overnight and popped it out this A.M.) I'll have to remelt it to add it to my LAM-II, but that won't happen for the next several weeks. However, it looks a bit like Felix Lube, but I haven't yet been able to determine how it will behave at room temperature.
How about some pictures? How green is this stuff anyway?
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
Tim, The final color depends on that of the beeswax, the largest ingredient. Mine was a dark tan, to which I added ruby ATF and blue 2 cycle oil. The result was a light tan - tan colored lube.
Dang. I was hoping for a bright zombie green.
Oh well. I'm going to whip some of this stuff up anyway and see how it does.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
mine comes out a lime green with one batch of b-wax, and a more blue-green with another.
now gear has a zombie lube that's pretty neon but it has some issues you don't wanna deal with.
it has a lot to do with your 2 stroke and b-wax combo.
and why i gave several ideas on modifications to make it work with different waxes.
i went in the garage this morning it was just about 55-f in there, i grabbed a handfull and squeezed into a shape i could stick in the star easily.
it didn't stick to my hand but left a little slicky behind.
That sounds like an improvement over FWFL. That stuff sticks to everything.it didn't stick to my hand but left a little slicky behind.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
anybody that makes/shoots this please,please,please report back what you see, how you modify it [and any info about your b-wax if you do modify it] or if you think something needs to be changed about the lube.
or just a range report about flyers,good groups,first shot,long strings, etc..
Lamar.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |