I trotted down to Walmart only to find no JPW BUT there are lots and lots of car waxes. Are they the same? SOme are even liquified. Ace has it for $5.00
I trotted down to Walmart only to find no JPW BUT there are lots and lots of car waxes. Are they the same? SOme are even liquified. Ace has it for $5.00
[QUOTE][I trotted down to Walmart only to find no JPW BUT there are lots and lots of car waxes. Are they the same? SOme are even liquified. Ace has it for $5.00/QUOTE]
Did you look in the home cleaning supplies, I don't think it's with the automotive stuff.
Jeff
I couldn't find it at WallyWorld either. I did get some from my local Mom'n'Pop hardware store. Haven't tried any yet.
R.M.
Look in the housewares section with the soaps and cleaners. Not where the car waxes are.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
I even asked! And got answers! In a Walmart! Helps I know several dept heads and the store mgr. They, this store, doesn't carry JPW. I can get it at the local hardware store. I checked.
MY QUESTION: Are any of the common car waxes suitable ie Turtle Wax? What ingredients do I look for? There are no or nearly no ingredients listed on most I looked at so I guess I'd need to look them up online.
CAR WAX PRODUCTS SUITABLE?
NO!
They contain abrasive polishes, i.e., diatomaceous earth, kaolin, etc. Might work for fire lapping purposes.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
I am the one who started the JPW thread afew years ago. I just tumble lube.
I don't add anything. Don't worry about the grooves not being filled. Lube left in the grooves after firing indicates that it didn't do anything in the first place or else it wouldn't still be there. I suspect that results are based on each shot laying down a thin film of wax that prepares the way for the next shot. Just as target shooters will fire a fouling shot to condition the bore for subsequent shots each bullets preps the bore for its successor.
Think about it. In conventional sizing/lubing the wax is scraped off the very part of the bullet that is left in bore contact. Most leading tends to occur in the bottom of the grooves not on top of the lands.
Ever try soldering, without fluxing, a dirty piece of metal that had even a small film on it. The solder won't stick. If the lead doesn't stick it will be pushed along by the bullet assuming the bullet is a large enough fit to completely seal the bore.
Hey guy's I have a question.I lubed some boolits this afternoon using leftoverdj's method. How thick a coating of wax would need to be applied.After coating the bullets looked dull and had a very lite coat of wax on them.I guess I am trying to compare to LLA on how thick a coating. Any advice appreciated. Jim
I picked some up at Wally World the other day in the home cleaners section. Now to play!!
If it doesn't shoot an ounce of lead, its a wimp load.
I too have recently aquired a Lee TL158 SWC for .357/.38s. I've tried LLA, Johnson's Floor Wax, and conventional lube. Seem barely OK for 700 to 750 fps in .38s. I have leaded heavily in .357 at 1100 fps. How fast do you guys push them?
"Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad
Wire Nut, My experience is a thin coat is good enough, just enough to to give the bullets a dull finish. I think it's like tumble lubing with Alox, don't over do it, less is better. I had a batch that I put a real heavy coating on, you could see the excess wax congealed along the bottom side of the bullets. It was a golden yellow color. I just rolled them back and forth on the wax paper covered cookie sheet I had dried them on. Even though the wax had dried the rolling seemed to distribute the wax more evenly on the bullets, kind of like buffing your car after the wax dries.
The less satisfactory experiences I've had with it, involving the wax flaking off, were when I put it on heavily.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
thanks,I have a very lite coat on them.I will load some tonight in a .357 case 125 gr lee bullet over 5.0 grs reddot.I have had zero leading loading this using LLA.Will report later on results.
I finally went and bought a can. I'll give it a try. Should have bought shares in the company when this post was created. They probably will have a record month.
Private company. A big one too-
http://scjohnson.com/family/default.asp
Maybe they'll send Bagtic a Christmas card.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
Sitting here drinking my morning coffee and rollin’ some stuff around in my head . I’m thinking about making my own pan lube. When I browse this board, I can’t help but notice that beeswax is used in almost all blends, also lots of comments about Lee Liquid Alox.
Has anyone blended JPW with beeswax and maybe LLA and used it as a pan lube? What proportions? Would it be hard, soft, sticky?
I was thinking of 1 can JPW, 1 LB beeswax, 1 bottle LLA to start with. What non-petroleum product could I use to soften it up if I need to?
I have mixed 50/50 Beeswax and JPW. I had poor success pan lubing as the next day when it was harder, it pulled itself out of the lube gooves. I might have to figure out a different way to pan lube to be successful. So far, melting the combo in a pie plate over low heat then tumbling the bullets in the 'sauce' and setting them on wax paper has worked just fine. many of my boolets have a small amount of excess accumulated lube around the bases where when it and the bullet was warm, it ran down the boolet onto the wax paper. It's no problem cleaning off the excess lube from the bottoms. After 24 hours, the coating feels like the consistency of beeswax ... softer than crayon wax but not sticky to the touch..
Ohio Rusty
What I've got now is a mixture of completely unknown proportions of JPW, toilet ring wax, beeswax, lanolin, and LLA. Works fine as a dip lube, sort of works as a tumble lube but it's kind of gummy for that. Haven't tried it as a pan lube, but I think it would probably work. Doggone, it sure sticks and won't pull off! It will melt at temperatures encountered by leaving cartridges in a clear plastic container in the sun (which heats them way to hot to hold in the hand and surely way too hot to safely fire.) Don't ask me how I discovered that, but a word to the wise should be sufficient...
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |