I ordered a 32 oz bottle of it. Some say it cleans BP residue and others claim it cleans corrosive salts from milsup ammo. Anyone out there have any experience with it?
I ordered a 32 oz bottle of it. Some say it cleans BP residue and others claim it cleans corrosive salts from milsup ammo. Anyone out there have any experience with it?
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
dunno but i do know soap and water will clean them out.
I tried a bottle of it and cleaned up a Russian Nagant after using corrosive ammo . Used the stuff according to the directions and a day or so later a light rust was beginning .
I cleaned it again , this time using it as if it was soap and water and it seemed to work . It does seem like awful expensive soap and water though so I won't be buying it again . I have heard a lot of the local boys just glowing about the stuff though so maybe it ain't so bad ...... just not for me .
Jack
Here's why I ask. I use soap and water at home because it works and ....it's almost free But, I do a BSA shooting camp in the summer at a place where water is not readioly available. We'll shoot a thousand rounds over a two day period and I wantd something that would work in the field between real cleanings.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
If I was going to go out in the field like that a few gallon milk jugs filled with enough water so you can still fit a cup of ammonia and about a table spoon of liquid dish soap . Or the same jugs with a light mix of Murphy's oil soap and water and lots of rags no matter which you choose . I bet beneath your kitchen sink you already have what it takes to get rifles clean without buying old zilla boy
Jack
I actually have been using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. That works exceedingly well but it leaves a residue that must be dried eventually. What I'd really like is a cleaner that removed corrosive salts in milsurp guns without having to do the H2O douch each time.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
try synthetic machine tool coolant and water mix, it works for me.
GI (WW II/Korea) bore cleaner is getting hard to find. But any of the ammonia bearing copper removing bore cleaners will remove the corrosive salts as well as any copper/gilding metal fouling (while my favorite is Sweet's 7.62, I'm sure any of the ammonia content cleaners will work). No water cleanup required, just dry patches. I follow with a Kroil patch to leave a light coat of oil, but that is because I am putting the weapon up for some time until the next range trip.
Ed
No matter what they CLAIM I always use soap and water first on corrosive primers. Evne with Hoppe's.
50/50 water and Ballistol, works wonders for cleaning corrosive ammo and blackpowder. After cleaning dry and follow with oil of choice. Only downside is Ballistol smells like athletic socks after a long run.
Reference to soap and water:
Lately I have found that dishwasher soap is much more effective than detergents. The dishwasher soap is formulated to make oil and dirt 'release' from whatever it has attached. Detergents on the other hand, dissolve. Give it a try with black powder also.
Here's a couple on EBAY
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WW11-RBC-RIF...item51a04854bc
I bought a case of this stuff when I was 17, I'm 46 now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPTY-POISON...item5ae35727f0
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |