My Lee Pro 4 just won't pour even after multiple cleanings...

[rplantca]

Have been casting .40 S&P and 9mm for two session on separate days and towards the end of today's session the bottom tip/spout of my Lee Pro 4 pot would seemingly cool off and no longer pour. I upped the temp of the pot and this didn't seem to make any diff. I have to reheat the tip/spout almost every pour with a small propane torch that I have. This is just no working...

I tried cleaning out the tip/spout a number of times, didn't work. Then I emptied the pot, took the bottom plate off, and drilled out the hole in the tip/spout. This didn't work either.... I still had to use the torch to heat the tip just a bit to get the pot to pour again...

Anyone have any idea why the tip is seemingly cooling off so quickly and stays clogged?

Thanks... Rick

[tomme boy]

Turn the temp up more. When is it actually happening? After adding a bunch of cutoffs?

I use a small drillbit to push up threw the bottom when something stops up mine. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the bit.

[billyb]

Sounds like a faulty switch or a bad element. How old is the pot? Do you use a thermometer? If the spout is freezing up you have a tempeture problem if like you say you have cleaned the pot and spout.

[rplantca]

Firstly, thanks for all of your comments...

I have a PID attached to the pot and have cranked the temp up to 650, I'll try higher but I don't want to go to much more...

So I don't think it's a heating element issue and I've clean the spout with actually drilling it out, and yes I tried the push a nail and drill bit up the spout using pliers about 4 times before I actually took the base off and attached the drill bit to a drill and slightly enlarged the hole.

So this morning I've emptied the pot again and this time I got rid of everything in the bottom, will do a really good job cleaning out the pot (will even use a wire brush since I'm the anal type). I'm going to try and polish the push/stopper rod and also lap the tip and pot hole...

We'll see what this does... will advise....

[RydForLyf]

Firstly, thanks for all of your comments...

I have a PID attached to the pot and have cranked the temp up to 650, I'll try higher but I don't want to go to much more...

So I don't think it's a heating element issue and I've clean the spout with actually drilling it out, and yes I tried the push a nail and drill bit up the spout using pliers about 4 times before I actually took the base off and attached the drill bit to a drill and slightly enlarged the hole.

So this morning I've emptied the pot again and this time I got rid of everything in the bottom, will do a really good job cleaning out the pot (will even use a wire brush since I'm the anal type). I'm going to try and polish the push/stopper rod and also lap the tip and pot hole...

We'll see what this does... will advise....

As soon as I added a PID to my Lee pot I had spout freezing problems. Based on our two cases, it's obvious that the PID is causing the spout freezes. NOT!

Actually, what is happening is that having the PID in the pot is giving us the feeling of control that we can keep the temp more stable and thus run at a lower temp. The problem that results from this is the temperature crashes that are experienced when fresh lead is added. I was trying to keep the temp constant and add one lb at a time, but when I was running at 640, the temps would crash and the spout would freeze.

The problem is the spout is cooling because it is out in the wind, and unprotected, thermally speaking, on three sides. If you can hit it with an IR thermometer, I'm sure you'll see the temps a lot lower than your set point.

The solution is to keep your temps up, either by running the pot closer to 700 or pre-heating your lead to lessen the temp crashes.

Chuck

[zuke]

I use a 10lb LEE pot to premelt my lead in the LEE 20lb pot I'm casting from.

[rplantca]

Again, thanks for all of the replies... and especially to RydForLyf since I finally came to the conclusion this morning that it was the wind/draft that was causing a good bit of the freeze. But before I figured this out, I emptied the pot, boiled some soapy water and then used a wire brush to absolutely get the pot clean of all the "slag". Next I drilled out the inside hole where the shutoff rod seats and then re-drilled the pour hole. This in and of itself didn't really help all that much but it was a bit better.

Then I thought that maybe it was the draft/wind since I'm casting in the garage next to the garage door for ventilation. So, I decided to take some cardboard and construct some baffle/sides to the lower portion of the pot. This helped a huge amount, like RydForLyf suggested. It was not 100%, but as long as I didn't stop for too long the pot kept pouring.

Ah, I also upped the temp to 670, again with the PID (and I agree that it's just an illusion, but makes me feel better) and that helped a bit too... maybe... cause when I would refill the pot with more lead and the temp would drop to 620, it kept on pouring as long as I didn't stop too long....

So in the end, I think I have a workable solution that will allow me to keep casting as long as I keep my casting bench by the garage door...

And, I have actually thought about doubling up on the pots, putting a second pot over the casting pot, just to keep the temp in the casting pot more constant. Not an original idea mind you, since I saw it on some Youtube video... so thanks for the reminder

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[R.M.]

Why not increase the pot temp. In my mind, 670 is pretty cool.

[ubetcha]

Hotter temps.I run mine above 700 degrees.Do your molds even fill out at those low temps?

[rplantca]

The mould filled out well in the beginning, but now there seems to be good deal of bad pours at these lower temps... (this could be in my own mind) but since upping the temp, I will say that the pour goes alot better at 670... I just don't want to get too close to the 712 where it is possible for the Zinc to start separating from the lead. My PID has an operating range of +/- 18 degrees, which is adjustable, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to change... in any case again, thanks for the help.... I'll try 690 tomorrow...

[R.M.]

... I just don't want to get too close to the 712 where it is possible for the Zinc to start separating from the lead....

Say what????

[Westwindmike]

Why would Zinc be in your casting pot?

[rplantca]

I guess it shouldn't have any in it if I smelted it properly, so good question.... thanks

[snuffy]

I just don't want to get too close to the 712 where it is possible for the Zinc to start separating from the lead.

I think you have that backwards. Zinc melts at 787 degrees. The temps you're using would result in the zinc floating on the surface of the lead as a oatmeal like scum or slag.

Raise your temp above 700. I routinely cast my range lead alloy between 700 and 730 degrees. I never have trouble with the spout freezing on my 4-20 lee. It's also regulated by a pid, but mine holds + or - 2 deg.

[rplantca]

yep, I was backward and I was really thinking about the temp whereby tin looses it's ability to aid in pouring since at around 750 tin looses it ability to help reduce the surface tension of the lead... in any case, everyone's replies have helped me get re-focused and remember what I was really talking about... SO THANKS AGAIN!!!!! I know everyone has gone out of their way to help me with my problem....

rick

[45-70 Chevroner]

Why not increase the pot temp. In my mind, 670 is pretty cool.

I feel the same as R.M., I get the best results with 700 +. I have had freezing problems with the spout also and it seems to happen most often when the wind is blowing, and the outside temp is cooler. I cast in the doorway of my garage.

[Sonnypie]

Good Lord, what did Jeremiah Johnson do when casting from a camp fire????

[dragonrider]

You are casting at to cool of temperature, bring you temp up. I cast between 750-825 degrees, no problems to speak of. You will bet better results if when adding lead to your pot, you add already hot lead. I use two pots, one mounted above the other, to top pot is the supply for the lower, casting pot. In this way you do not have a cool down problem when refilling the casting pot. No time spent waiting for fallen temp to rise again.

[Dumasron]

What is a PID?

Thanks

[kbstenberg]

Dumasron it is an electrical control box with a probe that reads the temperature of your lead, and adjusts the temp either up or down to a temperature you have pre-set.