....Lube rings at the muzzle are not needed unless you shoot BP. You then need fouling softening that is not as important with smokeless. You do not need a ton of grease in the bore.
My experience has proven the same thing. Lube, really, isn't so much of a lube as a sealer, like oil on piston rings. Really greasy, slick lubes throw boolits everywhere. Lube "stars" are actually something I try to avoid. If I'm getting one it means the lube is too slick, too soft, and is being liquified in the grooves on the way down the barrel, or blown past the boolit due to gas leaks. I want the lube to come off, but not in a liquid spray.
The important thing about lube is having a consistent friction with every shot.
If you could put everything about lube in a nutshell, that would be it! I would hate to shoot a dozen shots and heat the barrel before shooting the deer.
Lube purge at the muzzle should be there after one shot, not a dozen.
This is the secret to having a lube that doen't throw the first shot, assuming the bore is conditioned.All lube should leave a boolit at the same time. Or it should ALL stay in the grooves
Yep. What did Runfiverun say? "It either all needs to stay or go'. so if you need to shoot a lot looking for a grease ring, put a zerk fitting in the barrel and use a grease gun!
Some lubes Diesel from pressure or ignite from a low flash point in the bore. If you get smoke from smokeless, lube is burning.
I've suspected this for a long time, but never heard it mentioned before. I never did figure out what the self-ignition pressure of pure, macro-parrafin (candle wax) is, but I suspect that a .30-'06 or .44 Magnum develop about 10-15 times the pressure needed to ignite diesel fuel.
Never thought you might be shooting a diesel engine, did you?