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Thread: Hardness tester

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Hardness tester

    Another newbie question here.

    I am wondering how badly I will need to test the hardness of the alloy I am using to cast boolits. What problems will I encounter if I don't measure hardness? Do all of you do it?

    If I can get away with it, I would rather not spend the money on a hardness tester, but I would like a good setup for making some precision hunting boolits.

  2. #2
    In Remebrance


    Bret4207's Avatar
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    No. you don't need one. Eventually you'll get wondering what the Bhn is a few years down the roan and buy one, but it won't be the Godsend you think it will. Just realize all they do is tell you the approximate Bhn, not a thing more. They don't tell you the make up of the alloy or how it will react in your guns, they won't fix any issues you have. When you do plunk down the $$$ get the Cabin Tree, at lest that one has multiple purposes.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    make you own

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    RayinNH's Avatar
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    BAMB read this thread. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=75455

    This should answer some questions and give you a cheap method of comparing your alloys and boolits from batch to batch...Ray
    Proud member in the basket of deplorables.

    I've got the itch, but don't got the scratch.




  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    x2 on Cabin tree

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
    btroj's Avatar
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    I agree pretty much with what Bret said.
    I don't own a hardness tester. My FIL has one, I have used it a few times. I just don't care or need to know what the BHN is. I prefer to observe how my bullets act upon Impact with the berm. It gives me a common measure of their behavior. I can then determine if the bullets are too hard or too soft.
    In general, the BHN just doesn't matter that much.

  7. #7
    Moderator Emeritus
    dromia's Avatar
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    I cast happily for years without a hardness tester, then I sprung for a Cabine Tree and it is a fine piece of kit and I do use it to get a feel for relative hardness of an unknown alloy. The main reason it gets used is because it is easy to work and it feeds my curiosity, the only time I feel I really need it is when I'm making up alloy for 2,400 fps + boolits and the hardness/malleability of the alloy is crucial and I'm looking for repeatability of the alloy that works for me at those velocities.

    So do you need one to make great and accurate boolits? No you don't, get your boolit fit right and knowing hardness isn't crucial to success.

    Still its nice to have one and I'm glad I've got one. I think the Cabine Tree one is best, I've just sold my LBT its good too but I prefer the Cabine Tree.


    For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:

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  8. #8
    Banned








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    another cabin tree user. Ive had the lbt and seaco units and sold them both when i got the cabin tree unit.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy beanflip's Avatar
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    x3 on Cabin tree
    I SHOOT MORE FOR LESS

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master kodiak1's Avatar
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    Another happy customer of Cabin Tree...............

    Ken.
    Ken.

    Be nice if it was better, but it could be worse

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    Well, I guess I'm the odd man out; I have a Lee tester (I don't use the microscope included with the kit anymore, too much trouble. I now use my magnifing visor and dial calipers). I have cast bullets for about 9 years and just got a tester for Christmas last year. Didn't need one. I cast 90% of the time with Wheel Weight alloy and leading is controlled by bullet fit...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
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    I have the Lee, it works fine for me, and I recommend it... at least, for anyone who can follow directions. That doesn't mean everyone.

    You need to file a flat on the test item, the side if its a boolit. You need to hold the press handle still for 30 seconds for each test, with the plunger level with the top of the die. You need to set up something to hold the microscope (rubber bands around a paperweight will do) and take a few readings. Then you need to look up the reading on a chart to find the BHN.

    Apparently, some feel this is really, really hard, or think it's really, really easy but just can't seem to get consistent readings out of it. I follow the directions and get really consistent readings.

    Do you need it? Wheel weights, in large batches, are usually very consistent in hardness, but I have a couple of batches that are really hard, like 18BHN. They came from large truck weights and I think they were old, like decades old. Clip-on wheel weights are all over the place from dead soft to harder than average WW batches. Mystery metal can be 60/40 solder or just dead soft lead. While you can guestimate, it is really nice to KNOW.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check