that may be zinc and not lead.
i would melt some in a pot and check the melting temp lino will melt at something like 515 f and zinc melts at 780 or so.
lino will just melt with no slush stage.
you might have something else like stereo type or foundry also.
buut the melt temp will give you a good clue whether it's worth messing with all of it.
I do not believe that is linotype. It is foundry type. It can be alloyed with other metals to form a good bullet metal, but you will need a furnace capable of heating it to 850 degrees F.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I melted somone with a hand torch and the lead that is sandwiched between the copper and steel melted out.they must off used it to solder the two pieces together. The back tabs are magnetic.
after looking around just a bit i believe they called the copper faced stuff permatype.
it was used for stuff they printed a lot of and didn't want to re-set each time.
i'd do the melt temp though to try and determine what the lead is.
The stuff that melted out between the copper and steel is very shiny and pretty hard it must have a high tin content.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |