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Thread: Paper Cartridges

  1. #1
    Boolit Master peter nap's Avatar
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    Paper Cartridges

    I just got an older imported .54 Sharps that uses paper cartridges.
    Can someone point me in the right direction making them?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RMulhern's Avatar
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    "The South died with Stonewall Jackson!"

  3. #3
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
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    I believe the Dixie Gun Works catalogs also had the instructions in the back.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  4. #4
    Boolit Master peter nap's Avatar
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    Thank you Gentlemen!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy 59sharps's Avatar
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    I would also hunt down Charlie Hahn and try some of his cardboard tube. I like them more than my home rolled papers. Plus he can give you a lot of info on the sharps paper guns!
    14th VA. CAV.
    N_SSA

  6. #6
    Boolit Man Cannoneer's Avatar
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    I used to shoot with N/SSA and had a .50 caliber Shiloh Sharps Percussion Carbine. Great gun and I made my own cartridges from both nitrated paper and nitrated cotton sheet material, (old bed linnen).

    To start out I got the corect paper cartridge kit from Dixie Gun Works. It included a mandrel that was the same diameter as my bullet, a small pad of nitrated paper and a glue stick.

    I found out the hard way that the best way to make the cartridge was to make the tube the length of the chamber so the end would be flush with the breech end of the barrel.

    To do this so you DO NOT have a tail to shear off when you close the breech block is to add this step.

    Once you have your paper/linnen cut to the propper length and width take a one inch square of silicone eye glass cleaning tissue. (I use this because it is stronger than TP and super thin.) Apply the one inch square to the end of the mandrel and form a cup. Fold it against the madrel and apply glue from the glue stick on one short end of the precut paper and along one edge. Take the precut paper and lay the unglued side against the mandrel making sure that the glued short end is applied against the silicone paper cup on the end of the mandrel. As you wrap the paper around the mandrell snugly the glued edge will overlap the precut paper and form a tube with one end closed.

    Put this aside. Repeat these steps until you have as many as you want or need.

    Once the glue is dried pour in a .7 cc Lee dipper full of 4Fg or 3Fg. This is your ignition charge. The pour in the ammount of powder you plan to use leaving enough room to seat your bullet into the tube. At this point I would run a bead of Testors model airplane glue around the circumfrance of the paper/bullet juncture.

    After letting everything dry. I would load them into the chamber and thumb them in untill the end of the cartridge was flush with the breech.

    Close the breech block and put the cap on the nipple.

    When the trigger was squeezed, the hammer would fall steeting off the cap.

    The fire will then pierce the silicone paper and ignite the ignition charge which will ignite the main charge. Somewhat like the bag charge in modern day 155mm howitzers.

    When done like this, I never had a misfire with my Sharps.

    Nitrated Paper and Bed Sheet Material:

    I used typing paper that had a 25% rag content and and old sheet the wife was going to throw out.

    I cut the sheet into 8.5 inch x 11 inch sheets.

    I used a large Pyrex caserole dish to put the sheets (paper or cotton sheets) into and boiled up 2 cups of water. As the water boiled I added Potasium Nitrate I got from the pharmacy and poured it into the water until I couldn't get it to disolve any more. I then poured the super saturated solution into the Pyrex and let it sit for a half hour.

    After the solution cooled, I took the sheets out and hung them in the shower to dry. Once dry, I smoothed them out on a smooth plastic cutting board and cut them to the correct size for my carbine.

    I stored them in an airtight/water tight ammo can until I was ready to make them into cartridges. I stored the completed cartridges in the same ammo can in a small plastic container that I bought at the Grocery store that were sold to store leftovers.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check