HI Guys,
Good thread on Liquid Alox. But are you forgetting that the boolits with the big grooves are usually not the finished diameter?
Much obliged,
Max
HI Guys,
Good thread on Liquid Alox. But are you forgetting that the boolits with the big grooves are usually not the finished diameter?
Much obliged,
Max
I sure wish I had learned to use the computer a long time ago. I have probably wasted a lot of bottles of LLA by using too much of it. I was just doing what I thought Lee suggested to use. If I had known how to use a computer back in the 80's I might have found a web site like this and learned a lot of things. Every thing I have learned about cast boolits up until recently was self tought. I have really enjoyed this web site, and everyone on here have been of great help.
Even if you knew how to use a computer back in the 80's you would have had a hard time finding websites like this one, the 'web' as such wasn't around back then! About the closest thing would have been if CompuServe (the big online company back then) had any gun related forums, which I don't think they did, or at least I don't remember seeing any back then.
But you're right, this forum is THE place to learn how to cast boolits!
- MikeS
Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410
I am using the Lee liquid Alox on my 6mm boolits from an old Lyman/Ideal mold and I have gotten my best groups ever with that rifle (Rem 600).
MikeS: I kind of knew that but if I had learned to use the computer back then I would be way a head of the game now. I have only been a member of this web site for a few years and I really only had minimal knowledge. I am still struggling with it. I don't think I will really have a comand of it in my life time.
Last edited by 45-70 Chevroner; 10-11-2011 at 09:26 AM.
Love to see pictures of piles and piles bullets,im in cast bullet heaven.
Thanks for posting pictures.
Judan
The way I figure it, I wasted a whole lot of LLA over-lubing boolits for years ... decades even. Fact is when I learned on this site to thin the stuff way down with mineral spirits I was skeptical. Downright disbelieving to be honest. I mean a coating as thin as advised just would never work in my guns at my velocities. Well, I was wrong. The thinnest layer I can get (and later dusted with Motor Mica) is absolutely perfect. I mean the lubed and dried boolits just look dull, not really lubed, but I've had no leading at all.
And knowing what I know now, I have about a 100 year supply of LLA. Wish I could say the same for alloy.
Last edited by ku4hx; 10-11-2011 at 07:12 AM.
Gosh! I reckon I've been using too little? I lube about 40# of boolits at a time in bucket and only use about 10 drops of thinned LLA. I leave them clumped in the bucket and give them another tumble later in the day or next day and then let them dry in a single layer. They look well coated and shoot fine. The gun barrel sizes them so far as I know.
prs
Later,
Mike / TX
Prior to internet access in Alberta (late 1980s) I would dial up bulletin boards in the U.S. that were open ports for the internet. It cost about $1.00 a minute to do gopher and arc hie searches on the various University and government databases that had public access. There were no graphics, just text and firearms information other than anti gun rhetoric was rare.
At a buck a minute for long distance to call into the board I was downloading the board indexes, signing off, and selecting the material (documents) regarding the political fight over gun laws in Canada, connecting and down loading that material, so no.
Video gaming at a buck a minute was a luxury that would divert spare dollars away from the local fight over gun laws.
I have to laugh!
No amount from a kiss to full lube grooves is what I use. I hate the stuff. It leads my bores and ruins accuracy. Just how much better is Felix lube? About 10000000000000000000000000000000000%! Obama uses even more zeros!
It is Z- Bart for undercoating cars and all of my cars with the junk still rusted out. The stuff burns in the bore and is why less is better, less ash in the bore to scrape off lead. It smokes because it burns and it stinks.
Alox has a high flash point and beeswax helps tame it. It still is not that good at 50-50. ANYTHING other then alox to soften beeswax is better.
Thanks for all the great info guys. I will be trying LLA pretty soon
A 5-year-old thread resurrected. This site has an enormous amount of information, sometimes one needs to go mining for it.
FWIW, I never could figure out how to use LLA, and didn't use it until I found Recluse lube (45-45-10). I've had good luck with it, and now I'm preparing to try Ben's Liquid Lube (BLL), using the Lundmark liquid wax, as the Johnson's has become Unobtanium.
Good luck !
You can use lots lots and still get great results w handgun. Doesn't take much but I've since gone to powder coat for everything except 38 special, 45 Acp, heavy 9mm, and military loadings. Very successful and no reason to powder coat those
I have molds from Lee, RCBS, Saeco, and Lyman. I use it on all for the simplicity and it works on all. Each gets two coats - one before sizing and one after. From now one, don't be a stranger to the site. Belated welcome.
I use very little for 45 colt along with a very small glob of paste wax. The wax mixes well with the LLA when tumbling and they dry fast and with no stickyness.
I love the stuff, it will kill grass next to my driveway. It also lets your Ford rust out.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |