Well done, sir!
Bill
Well done, sir!
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I just did this one today,,,,
Started with a $10 single cavity Ideal 452460, and after two hours.. waaaalaaaaaa...
Will need to make more and test them, but so far so good, drop at 190gn with WW.
Pete
Oh, those are some pretty boolits... The addiction continues!
Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...
"Praying might get you to heaven, but trespassing will expedite the journey..."
Where might I be found when I'm not here? Try looking here:http://www.facebook.com/NSWE.Pagosa and here: www.rescueropes.org
Pretty cool Rangefinder, I can't wait to try that on some of mine!! Thanks for the info!!
Nicely done. Even WITH a full machine shop creative thinking outside the box is an asset .
I wonder how consistent Lee molds are on the ID at the lower part of the TL grooves ? An enterprising person could make and sell sets of bushings made of say 4140 pre heat treated steel.
Bill
Both ends WHAT a player
Now THAT is an interesting idea.... I think I like it!I wonder how consistent Lee molds are on the ID at the lower part of the TL grooves ? An enterprising person could make and sell sets of bushings made of say 4140 pre heat treated steel.
Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...
"Praying might get you to heaven, but trespassing will expedite the journey..."
Where might I be found when I'm not here? Try looking here:http://www.facebook.com/NSWE.Pagosa and here: www.rescueropes.org
Thank you Rangefinder. This is a idea well done. Very budget minded in these times.
Well I used a brass plumbing fitting for a "drill bushing". In the iron mold , I was counting on the crush fit effect when I closed the two halves up around it. The thru hole size on the fitting was 0.185" so, 3/16" was the was to go. And pins are plentiful with "dead" drill bits handy.
I think a steel drill bushing would be nice but, if it turned in an aluminum mold while it was being drilled, could be big mess. Drill bushings in bronze are a little more forgiving, although the commercial sizing is expensive. The plumbing fitting was free and I cheaped out on mine.
Pete
Seems to me you could eliminate the need for a bushing pretty easily. Use a drill rod, wrapped in tape if necessary, to set the center. Clamp the work piece to the table (with the rod still in the cavity), then swap out the drill rod for your through drill.
Great job guys. I have a drill press but don't have a old mold that I would like to try this on. It sure is tempting.
I've got some brass stock. I wonder if it would work for the bushing? I thought about working it down to size in the drill press after drilling a hole for the drill bit. Too soft?
GO WVU MOUNTAINEERS!--Hey, our mascot carries a muzzleloader.
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Professional Critter Chaser
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I love wildlife, it tastes great!
Both ends WHAT a player
Ok found a 452374 at the gun show and couldnt help myself this morning....
That's pretty freakin' good, Phaessler.
Gear
Man Phaessler, THAT is a job to be proud of on that mold! Gorgeous looking boolits ya got there! Of course you realize we're gonna be anxious to see the range report soon !
Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...
"Praying might get you to heaven, but trespassing will expedite the journey..."
Where might I be found when I'm not here? Try looking here:http://www.facebook.com/NSWE.Pagosa and here: www.rescueropes.org
I'll bet they look like this:
Gear
Gear, here's a sound effect to go with that pic:
SPLAT!
Nice work you guys. I suppose it would be just as easy to make a second pin
for a flat nose, so you could cast either style. Wife just got a LCP 380,
might be nice to cast HPs for that, but that's the mold I use for cores for swaging.
Hmm, that would give 2 possible core weights from that mold as well.
Dangit, when I get a minute that is...
Seems now that I have no time, give me a week or two. Work sure can be in the way.
I had to modify the pin though, I was getting flash around the ogive/hollow, and it wasnt visually acceptable.
gearnasher, now that is perfect. I will have to learn how to use softer alloys probably to get mine to work. Any suggestions?
I am in awe at the quality of work you guys do with basic hand tools and home machines
the best I ever did was make an aluminum end for a portable air pump
you know the kind you carry in your car, and plastic end has a lever that locks onto the valve stem, using an expanding grommet? and break the first time you NEED it at -40*!!!
I drilled and filed until a new rubber grommet held tight. the pump lasted another 5 years or so.
Move to Antarctica where it's nice & warm!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |