Good information here....I was just about to start ordering parts and stumbled across this thread. Auberins.com makes it very easy to get most everything needed to get this going.
Going to add this to my Lee Pro 4 and put away the digital thermometer I've been using.
Well, O.K., I'm convinced now. At first I was skeptical at the reason for building one of these due to my being a hardhead sometimes. You know, getting an old dog to do new tricks etc.. What the h**l, don't have anything better to do & I do love new toys. I found some Universal 1/16 DIN PID controllers on Ebay for really decent prices. Still reasearching.
O.K. I just ordered my 1/16 DIN PID Controller for $26.99 ppd., My thermocouple for, yes $5.00, & my SSR for $6.50 on, yes, Ebay. It's the same brand names as major suppliers offer. This should be fun!
Last edited by Pigslayer; 11-24-2011 at 09:50 PM.
I picked up a thermocouple with a range of up to 788F. I noticed that you used one with a higher temp capacity. Although I have cast bullets for many years, I never measured the temp. Always went by the appearance of the bullets being cast. From what I've read the temp. should be 625F to 675F. Given that my thermocouple should be satisfactory??
Does anybody make a plug and play kit for this? Seems like it is a much better option than a thermometer. I am looking to get a Lee Pro 4-20.
So I'm not an electrician or anything but after reading all the posts on cast boolits, I was inspired to try and do my own PID controller. So I ordered everything and it came to the house last week. I quickly found out I had "fat fingered" a number and instead of getting a PID controller for SSR output I accidentally got a PID controller for Relay output. So I orderned the correct controller this evening. What I just realized is I did not get the "exact" SSR that I ordered. Instead of receiving the white SSR I received the purple/black one (both pictured below) that does not have terminal markings on them such as AL-, AL+, L1, and T1. So can someone tell me if I can hook up the other SSR with the same configuration? Any help would be greatly appriciated!
Respectfully,
Powell
Powell,
In general the answer to your question is yes with a couple of caveats. The purple/black SSR is rated at 25 amp load and the white SSR is rated at 40 amp load. If your melter requires typical power (800 watts at 115 volts), either SSR will work fine. With the orientation the same as in the side by side photos, the connection terminals are the same.
DougF
Ok great! Last question. I noticed a lot of people mounting their heatsinks outside the project box. Is this required? I wanted to put everything inside the box so I don't have anything hanging outside. Is this ok? That brings up another question. Currently, my project box is the plastic box from Radio Shak. Is the SSR relay going to get hot enough to melt the plastic? So many questions...so little knowledge....
Respectfully,
Powell
I did get thermal compound that I put between the ssr and the heatsink. I don't know the wattage of my melter but I know it's a Lee Pro 4 20 # pot.
Respectfully,
Powell
I did not realize you had the heat sink yet you did say so in a previous post. The heat sink sill not get hot enough to melt the plastic. Somewhere in the paperwork or on the side of the melter unit it should state wattage. Most likely 800 watts.
You should be good to go. Good Luck!
DougF
The heat IN the SSR is not really a concern.
While they can get a little warm (on a LEE 4/20 ~ 120º) when the pot first heats up and they run 100% for a while.
After that the heat produce isn't much.
BUT you need the hot air produced to go somewhere.
It's not Just the heat in the SSR/Heatsink that can cause problems.
Remember the PID controller itself also produces heat and is heat sensitive.
Add some Vent holes in your enclosure if they are not provided.
A row or two up at the top to let the hot air out and a few rows in/at the bottom to let cool air in will ensure proper convective ventilation.
Your controller will be much happier.
Great! Thank you. I will be cutting some vents into my box. I do have a question about switches if anyone out there is smarter than me and can tell me what kind of switch I need (SPDT, DPDT, ect). I want a switch that has three positions on, off, on. So I can give power directly to the pot circumventing the PID and then throw the switch to the other side and power the PID and this the pot. I was told it will extend the life of the PID and/or SSR if I heated the pot up before using the PID/SSR to control the power. Any thoughts?
Respectfully,
Powell
i want one
what was your total cost of all the parts + shipping
Who ever appeals to the law against his fellow man is ether a fool or a coward.
whoever can not take care of himself with out that law is both
for a wounded man will say to his assailant if i die you are forgiven if i live i will kill you such is the rule of honor!!
Well seeing as though I ordered the wrong PID controller to begin with....my costs are a little high. Ima not sure on the total but if you want to go to the auber's website you can find all the parts. The only things I purchased at radio shack was the box, some wire, a switch (which I may change out), and two LED lights. The switch and the lights are not required though. I enjoy DIY projects so that's why I chose to take this one on e en though I have very limited electrical experience. So I'm approaching it as a fun project instead of adding up all my costs. Sorry I don't have an amount I've spent. It probably would have been cheaper to pay someone else to build it for me but then I would have no idea on how it worked or how to fix it if something went wrong.
Respectfully,
Powell
OK, now I'm curious. What are you going to use the 2 LEDs for??
I think you may be in for a disappointment, but I'll wait until you tell me.
<edit>
OH! and you want a DPDT (on,off,on) type that can switch at least 8Amp.
Here is an example.
I know why you want that type switch, but it really isn't needed. If the unit fails than just plug the pot into the wall.
If you forget to switch it the right way, you get a lot of yellow dust on your pot, as the LEE at full power runs in excess of 1200º.
You will not hurt the SSR by running it to heat the pot to temp.
Last edited by Frozone; 05-30-2012 at 11:29 PM.
Oh great! Easy enough for the switch. Ok I planned on using the LEDs for the alarm function on the PID. Meaning if the temp was too hot or too cold one of the LEDs would light up. I have a feeling you think that's a dumb idea....at least I still have my receipt so I can take them back.
Respectfully,
Powell
No, It's not a dumb Idea. I use the same thing on my units; both the units I make for sale and my personal ones.
Here is the problem - unless you add a DC power supply from some where; All you have available is line AC voltage ( likely 110 maybe 220 ).
LEDs need only a few volts DC and about 20mA current.
There is no way to hook them up to 110 AC and not have them explode.
If you use a stock 'Auber' controller then you want to use 'neon lamps' - Look Here
My PID has th alarm led's on the front, and I bet yours does too.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |