I will have a separate core die also.
Is having a separate core die to swage the lead core to same size for every bullet?
If so id like that done for my order as well.
I take the swaging die and punches.
Thanks Sprink.
Danr, please make my set with the separate dies also. I'll try to remember to call you Thursday sometime, after lunch maybe.
Thanks,
Kenny
ok, so, i was able to finalize and test my build plans.. at the end of the finalization, i ended up with a demo set of dies to show everyone.
some things may be slightly different, as i have a little more tuning to do on the lengths of the punches and the uniformity of the punches, but over all, its basicaly what they will look like.
i've also included some pics of the test swages i did.
NOTE: the last image is of some of the poor swages i did, i had to adjust the die lower than normal, and i had to ram them up like i was on crack to make them.. but no dies are without their problem swages, so i thought i would include a pic of some.
after all said and done, EVEN the bad ones sized perfect .224's. so you could call those JXP's! lol..
from left to right the dies are as follows :
de-rimming die, core swage die, core seat die, point swage die, sizing die.
the cores and swaged cores
the bad ones
Last edited by danr; 04-08-2011 at 09:32 PM. Reason: added die lables
i have to say though, making dies on a lathe is much different than making them by hand with only a drill press..
just for a beginner, running a mini-lathe is interesting to say the least.
but i do have a pretty good learning curve, and it only took me a little while to figure out how to get good cuts and clean drills.
Outstanding work and thanks for the pictures. It looks as if you had a busy week and I look forward to hearing my set is ready. Can't wait to try out the dies.
Dan
I wanted to get my name out here. Give me a heads up when the sets ready, I'm in on .223 and on .308 when its done.
I too will want the separate core swage die; fact is the set as you show it de-rimming die, core swage die, core seat die, point swage die, sizing die.
Larry
Last edited by lgvenable; 04-09-2011 at 05:52 AM.
Ok. So I have to ask what ogive are these? The .22lr de rimmed looks great. The lead swage looks great. The core seat die looks great. The projectiles do not seem to have an ogive (A pointed arch) to them.
Danr, Everything looks great, but on your finish product is there going to be a ogive on the boolit or just a angle?
Sprink
i agree with you guys, the point forming punch/die does still need some work. the reamer i used for my prototypes didn't work out well at all for the lathe. i'm going to go grab a set of the glass cutters i've heard so much about, and see if i can convert one to make a decient ogive.
the swage die top punch is what forms the point, so i can make different points and different ogives for the same die, just change out the punch. i'll post more pics as i get better results with the point forming punch.
These are what I'd call "spire-point" . At this price point, still an accomplishment !
i have 2 types of point forming dies.. one type uses a small pin as a top punch.. this has a tendancy to punch right through the bullet, which causes the bullet to be stuck in the die.. i had this problem a couple of times during build up, even after 2 hours of polishing and lapping the die, without lube, i still punched right through several bullets.
so, i opted for the 2nd design, where the point formation occures in the top punch.. this method allows the punch to push on the entire top surface of the bullet to remove it from the die.. thus eliminating the problems of stuck bullets.
even with No lapping and polishing, and NO lube, i couldn't get a bullet stuck at all.. there was times where i had to really hammer the hell out of the punch.. the punch did hold up to my severe hammering.. thanks to the #8 tempering on the punch.
in any case, i feel that this method of ejecting the bullet from the swage die is much better.. both for the end user, and for production reasons. for production, the die body just has to have a stepped ream from .230 - then a lead in at .224 to support the main bullet body. the punch is also .224 so, it fits right into the die, with the die supporting the punch walls. however, this does make it so the end of the punch is RAZOR sharp. so i'll add stops on the top of the punch to prevent it from cutting anyone.
hope this explains some things for yea.
dan
thanks shooterg. i appreaciate the comment.
i do hope to one day be able to offer several different punches to allow the end user to select whatever bullet point type that they want.
i was able to come up with a ogive comparison chart, so that i can make a specific ogive. this "spire point" is a #10 ogive.
i'm working on a #5 now..
i am using this chart for comparisons.. if anyone has a better chart, or if this thing is completely off, please let me know.
http://www.uslink.com/~tom1/calcbc/coxe-bugless.htm
dan
Last edited by danr; 04-09-2011 at 12:46 PM. Reason: added comparison chart
Ogive is actualy bullet diameter x radius . A 10 ogive .224 bullet would be so long that your bearing surface in the rifleing using a . 22 rf jacket would be very short . I also would call these a "modified " spire point bullet .
Yes these look like short spire points. Most bullets have a tangent arc. For example, a 6S shape is an arc with a radius that is 6 times the bullet diameter and meets the full diameter part of the bullet perfectly.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |