Keep a sharpie by the loading press. You can write the load info on the side of the case when working up new loads. Enter what works in the loading log.
Keep a sharpie by the loading press. You can write the load info on the side of the case when working up new loads. Enter what works in the loading log.
Don't buy nuthing you can't take home
Joel 3:10
Don't use the set screw on your Lyman Lubrisizer as it damages the top punches, just use some boolit lube.
Unfortunately it seems like nothing works out right the first time, take a deep breath or walk away from it and you'll do better next time.
When loading cast rifle bullets that need to be crimped, seat and crimp separately. This minimises damage to the bullets.
Plus, Lee factory crimp dies will successfully take off even a fairly substantial bell on the case mouth.
When doing load work up, do one of two things. Either take each batch of 4 or 5 loads and keep it separate with a post-it note in a ziploc, or write down your loads, 1 through 10, then mark your loading blocks with corresponding numbers. When you seat each round, mark the number on the case with a sharpie. This way, when you take the loading block to the range and tip it over, you know what loads were what instead of having to pull the bullets and start over again. Ask me how I know...
Calamity Jake
NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.
Most factory cast bullets are:
1. Too small of diameter
2. Too hard
3. Lubricated with too hard a lubricant
but you might get lucky...
When using a Lee Load All II and you need to change your powder or shot bushings, a empty 12 gauge shell can be inserted over the baffles by twisting it back and forward while gently pushing down. Then work your charge bar back and forward until the bushings are empty.
Reloading cartridges since 1992.
I've been picking up WW after my rotator surgery. Everyone wanted to carry the buckets to the truck for me. When you go WW hunting put you arm in a sling.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
I have no Idea if this helps or not but I see shooters doing it now and then.
If you shoot competitively, always orient reloaded rounds in the chamber the exact same way. To make it simple, I put a dot with a sharpie at the same spot on each case each time I reload it.
Empty pop and beer cans make excellent large ingot molds.
They hold 8-9#, depending on how full you get them and alloy.
MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM 100% DRY BEFORE FILLING
I cut the top off with a can opener to make filling easier and to check for moisture.
Lee hardness tester with a mini maglite solitaire, attatched with a hose clamp.
Plan ahead. I was faced with serious physical restrictions due to scheduled surgery. If I had cast a bunch of the correct boolits, I could be loading now, instead of kicking myself.
ONLY one powder on the bench at a time.
When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.
When I plug in the Lee to get the lead melted, I also plug the hotplate (with the mould on top of it) for pre-heat.
Almost allways, the very first boolit is a keeper when I do that.
Cat
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.
(I think, therefore I'm armed.)
Don't have a lead thermometer? Go to the local newspaper office and get scraps of newsprint that haven't been inked. Cut pieces 3" x 5" and fold a piece in 3rds the long way. BE SURE THE PAPER IS COMPLETELY DRY. Dip the first inch of the folded piece in your melt. In and out - submerge that inch for only a second. If the paper comes out golden brown, like toast, the temp is right for casting. I cast literally tons of lead into the moulds that made the pictures for newspapers years ago. The method really works.
I use a lot of the blue painters tape I Have more then one lyman 55 mounted side by side so this is what I do. I label the powder type along with the powder charge on the tube off to the side of it so I can also keep a eye on powder level. I also use it on my lee auto drops and but all the data on it like cal disc bullet weight. When I am done I just peel it off and stick it to my powder cabinet then I can reuse it. Or stick it to the loaded box of ammo.
Another tip I just saw here and I think its a good one is using shotgun boxes to store 5.56 in on stripper clips. He even painted the boxes and labeled them. Having a few guns that use this round and fighting for a way to store it this is one tip I will have to try out.
Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon
Lately I've started using Hornady One Shot case lube with my carbide .357 dies. It greatly reduces sizing effort, and it's neat and easy to use.
I quit using One Shot, had too many stuck cases. I use a home brew which I've never had a stuck case. 4 parts (red Bottle) Iso-heet to 1 part liquid Lanolin. Apply with small spray bottle. If you use this recipe, test it out (bottle) with a small portion. It will eat thru some plastics. If you want 99% alcohol here it is.
Sprue ™
+1 On only one can of powder on the bench at a time.
Marty-hiding out in the hills.
load 50 cases with powder at a time and use a flashlight to see inside every case to make sure each powder level is visually the same before seating boolits / bullets ... it has saved me from double charges and missed cases , on my single stage press
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |