has anyone else broken off the sprue plate cutting lever on their 6 cavity mold(s)? i was casting some 38 spl boolits the other day, and on the third opening, the lever snapped in half trying to open the sprue plate. it was about 20 degrees outside, and i was using straight w.w. alloy. i have done this in colder weather before, and had no problems. so i am not sure why this happened.
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Somebody here on the forum makes an upgraded lever, but I can't remember who it is. I was looking at it within the past few days, but my CRS is kicking in!
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It seems to be a fairly common occurrence. Lee might replace the broken part. Red River Rick(?) makes a cam with different geometry that will be an improvement. Jim in Phx makes steel sprue cutters for these. I have one of Jim's and did away with the cam operated design. Check in the Vendor Sponsor area.
I start by only casting one out of it, than two than 3 till the mold slowly heats up. It's too much force on the mold to open with a cold mold and 6bullets.
Also if alloy spills over from the sprue into the cam area they break easily. I broke 2 before I figured that out. I haven't broke one since I started being careful about removing any alloy out of that area if it gets in there.
Larry Gibson
Preheating your mold is a good idea, I use a hot plate. Have yet to break one of my 7 Lee 6C molds.
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I have done the same thing. It is pretty easy to do with a hard alloy and a cold spru. I cut the sprus on a Lee six banger while they are still soft, but not soft enough to tear or smear.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
It happens all the time if you are not carefull.
You'd think Lee would get tired of sending out replacement parts and make them out of real steel.
..
Gary's right, this is the way to avoid breaking the lever. I did it once, called Lee and they sent me a new lever free, and told me to heat it up slowly, filling one cavity and cutting, then two and cutting, then three and cutting, etc.
Originally Posted by garym1a2
Lee is working on a replacement I am told. If you try to cut the sprue when it is too cold you will feel the resistance on the handle increase when the cam runs out of travel. Follow the Lee instructions and use the screwdriver between the cam and the mold like you did not close the sprue plate all the way.
Make sure you put the mold on top of the molten lead to preheat it as the instructions say to do or use the hot plate method. I have even tipped the mold over to put the end of the sprue plate in the molten alloy.
Call Lee and they probably will send you out a new plate for no charge.
Another thing you want to do is make sure the sprue plate is completely closed before casting. The only one of these levers I ever broke was because I pulled too hard when the cam lever was already almost at the end of its travel, due to the sprue plate not being completely closed. It was my first casting session with my first Lee 6-banger. No problems after I learned what I did wrong.
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Stew
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Pretty much everyone that gets a a Lee 6 banger and does not read the cautions on the internet has broken a sprue lever .
Preheat the molds!! Cast into only 2 cavities till the sprue cuts easily then cast into 3 then 4 till you graduate up to all 6 cavities.
Filling all 6 cavities with molds that are not up to temperature will result in a broken sprue plate lever!!
You can get parts from Lee and often they are free.
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I broke my first one and then learned to "sneak up" on casting all six at once. Start with the farthest holes from the handle and gradually work up to all six when mold is up to temp.
Marty-hiding out in the hills.
I don't sneak-up on them. I fill them all with hot lead and almost immediately dump and repeat several times. Have not yet had the pleasure of fouling the cam with spru spill.
prs
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Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
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L W Knight
Yep - count me in for 12 breakage!! 6 cavity 9mm
Broke the original on my 200gr Tl 45 mold, but it was after 5000+ bullets. Called Lee and they sent another no charge. Bought an extra too, and they shipped it free with the other one. 3000+ more done out of it with no more breakage. I got distracted and let them cool too much and snapped it.
I used to wonder what this kind of discussion was all about, then I let a Lee 6-banger cool a might too long before resuming pouring, and the sprue plate was stuck fast. I pulled on the handle a while, gave up, and got out the propane torch.
It is amazing how easy 6 sprues cut when hot, and who hard they (don't) cut when cold!
Now, I know why these things get broken, and I'm very careful to let it sit on the mold warmer while not using it.
-HF
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My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
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I am up for two broken and both were when I got distracted heating my mold to final casting temp and the sprues got too cold.
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it looks to me like they are made from pressed powder metal. i ordered a replacement, as it is more than 2 years old, along with some other little items for my dies. i also noticed how it has a built in "stop", which i may modify one of the replacement arms (i ordered 2 in case it happens again) and see if i like it better. it is funny, i have casted in a lot colder weather before with no problems. i have thought about having an entire new sprue plate made up that would pour all 6 cavities without moving the mold down the entire length. but my brother always seems to busy to help me out. and he will not let me use his machines (which really might be a good thing). i replaced it with one off my 45acp mold and used a propane torch to heat it up to opperating temp before casting with it. i had never heard of the progressive casting method until it warmed up. i will try that next time i cast.
Silver and Gold are for rich men. Lead and Brass is MY silver and gold! And when push comes to shove, one of my silver and gold pieces will be more valuable than a big pile of actual silver and gold.
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