Whether this becomes a sticky or not, I'm gonna copy the information given in post 10-15 and save them for future reference!
EW
PS: STICKY PLEASE!
Whether this becomes a sticky or not, I'm gonna copy the information given in post 10-15 and save them for future reference!
EW
PS: STICKY PLEASE!
As far as the thermo couple in my set up I just twisted it around a wire (insert red neck here) coat hanger and bent that to hold the probe in the melt not touching the pot sides or bottom. I only wish I could add some duct tape and then it would be truly well you know Red-Necked!
“Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”
I have thee redneck method...
i used the same type of mount as yours, but used the base and whip from an old two way radio car antenna. it uses some duct tape to hold it to the wire whip.
The base unit is used like a portable stand and the wire whip was bent and formed to hold the high temp probe about one inch off the bottom of the melt. Portablilty to use in my two pots. (But mine is only a temperature indicator and not a PID, I need some SSR's: hint, hint, hint!)
Visit my projects at: http://cheese1566gunsandstuff.shutterfly.com/
I found a page that explains the whole PID so well that even I can understand how the thing works.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/PID-temp-controller
I'm thinking that you could affix the sensor tip inside a stainless steel tube and run it down inside of the lead pot (for bottom pours) to get the readings from the lead that we are using instead of the surface lead that will be fluctuating frequently from adding more lead or even the breeze flowing across the top.http://www.susanminor.org/forums/sho...e%20controller
Hey Shotgun Luckey!
The link you provided for the PID controller is broken. Is this the correct unit? It says its for controlling an SSR. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...6f31f807925e2f
Mine is about 1/2" off the bottom of the pot. Here is how I rigged my thermocouple in my big pot:
The thermocouple just passes though a hole I drilled in some flat stock. I drilled the hole undersize and twirled sandpaper on a split stick inside the hole and gradually opened it up to a slip fit. It hasn't moved in 5 years.
Last edited by Texasflyboy; 08-13-2010 at 09:42 AM.
This is great stuff but I have one question. Does the parts list change if I have a 220V pot?
TIA,
Chief
The voltage rating for PID and SSR listed are OK for 220V.
How do the PID's take to changes in temp for other substances?
My wife does candle making, and I'd love to use the same PID setup to control the melted wax at 130-200 degrees in a Presto pot and lead in my bottom pour.
Will it work, or does it mess up the logic side of things?
I recently finished putting one together using the Auber controller. There is no setting recall that I can find. I move mine between a couple of different lead pots. Moving the full controller system from one material function to another would not be a very difficult task. Clean off the thermocouple probe and run the auto tune function when the new material comes up to temperature. The auto tune function only takes a few minutes.
You want to be cautious using two thermostats in series. Be sure the one on the Presto cooker is set to full high value.
Doug
Last edited by kitsap; 12-10-2010 at 02:28 AM.
Thats about the way I was hoping it worked. I think I'll have to do it.
Has anyone used the larger 'project box' on auber's site for this, or is there a better box to make this all look nice?
I you were going to be using the unit for say candle making and for your melting pot I would suggest having a separate thermocouple that you used only for the candle making venture. I would set it up so that the thermocouples could be unplugged or just bite the bullet and have two separate systems.
After reading this thread I ordered my thermocouple,SSR, and PID and will set these up to control my sizer heater temperature.
I do have a question. I ordered a thermocouple that is a type K and it has two terminals. The picture that I found on wiring is showing a three terminal connection. Can anyone help me on this?
Last edited by 6bg6ga; 06-03-2012 at 06:59 AM.
6bg6ga,
You will see in the other examples of connecting the unit, it does show a thermocouple connection. The diagram is a "V" with a dot at the point and "TC" written near it.
Do not forget to program the unit to read a "TC" and you should be goo to go.
So I just connect between 4+5 with the thermocouple? I don't put a jumper between 3+4?
I ordered a WRNK-191 thermocouple that is 6" long. I assume this will work?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |