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Thread: Hopkins and Allen Falling block

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    NoZombies's Avatar
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    Well, I got the RF firing pin repaired today, as part of my multi-step process of getting the gun working. I've still got about 5 or 10 pieces of RF to shoot up, then I'll convert it to CF and shoot up the 32 colt stuff I've got, then I'll run the reamer into the chamber and make it into the .32 S&W Long.

    I wish I had a chronograph to chart the results... but Alas, I have neither a chrony, nor the money to acquire one.
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    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

  2. #22
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoZombies View Post
    Well, I got the RF firing pin repaired today, as part of my multi-step process of getting the gun working. I've still got about 5 or 10 pieces of RF to shoot up, then I'll convert it to CF and shoot up the 32 colt stuff I've got, then I'll run the reamer into the chamber and make it into the .32 S&W Long.

    I wish I had a chronograph to chart the results... but Alas, I have neither a chrony, nor the money to acquire one.
    Send the rifle and ammo to me for chrony testing at the Rocky Mountain Ballistics Research Laboratory. Don't worry about sending return postage.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Send the rifle and ammo to me for chrony testing at the Rocky Mountain Ballistics Research Laboratory. Don't worry about sending return postage.
    What a pal....

    If you go down to the rimfire section, Molly started a thread on duplicating the .32 Rimfire. I posted chronograph results on .32 Long Rimfire and .32 Short Colt. Someone else, (30WCF???) posted for the .32 Long Colt. That would at least give you some idea of what the velocity was.

    Robert

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Send the rifle and ammo to me for chrony testing at the Rocky Mountain Ballistics Research Laboratory. Don't worry about sending return postage.
    Wow Ric, it's hard to turn an offer like that down.... but I think I will anyways

    I've made the next step in the progression, I couldn't find my rimfire ammo, (I know it's here someplace...) so I started the process of mounting the scope, I squared everything up in the mill vise, and leveled it all, so I should have the barrel drilled and tapped by sometime next week, would have today, but I cut my hand on another project and decided to call it a day. I've got a chucking reamer sitting on the desk now, and I'm thinking I might just cut my own chamber reamer to tighter tolerances than SAMI spec, since all of my loaded ammo is way under max dimensions. We'll see how that goes.

    I might find a windfall of .32 LC ammo this weekend at the gun show, if so, the re-chambering would at least be postponed. Either way I'll shoot up all the 32 SC ammo I've got before rechambering, and after converting the block.
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazo kid View Post
    I agree, in their old catalogs, H&A stated the receivers were steel. I think it was DeHaas who said they were cast iron.
    Maybe the idea of them being cast iron is because they break very easy. I have had several come through the shop with broken tangs and they don't like to be welded with a tig torch. The old cast iron rod with red flux seem to work best. Tried one with mild steel a while back and ended up with lots of holes next to the weld. There are lots of grades of cast iron and cast steel.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Well, Another forum member here has offered me a medium H&A action, at a price even I couldn't refuse, so it looks like I'll build a "big brother" of the little guy.

    I know that the medium action was offered in 38-55, 32-40, 16 and 20 ga, and various other "real" chamberings and I think I might build this one in 38-55.

    Besides keeping everything within black powder type pressures, is there anything else I should know? I think this might make an interesting Paper patch and general cast boolit gun.

    And does anybody have a good source for a barrel blank for a 38-55?
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    All the medium actions I've seen have had slip-fit barrels held with a cone-shaped cross pin. They are, to my eyes anyway, the most aesthetic of the H&A actions and I've wondered what one made of 8620 with a threaded barrel would be capable of. All of the H&A mediums I've seen had pistol grip tangs. Check and see if yours has the trigger adjustment set and lock screw arrangement on the right side of the receiver. H&A called this a "set trigger," and patented it if I recall, but it is really nothing of the sort. It should not be set too fine. Check DeHaas's Single Shot Rifles and Actions; it has a good section on the mechanics of the H&A actions.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Hey Bent,

    It's got everything but the "set trigger" which, as I understand it, was just a sear engagement adjustment. No loss there methinks. It's a pistol grip tang, and the cross pin take-down. I've seen photos, but won't have it in my hands for a little while. As it comes to me it's a complete action minus the extractor.

    I've gotta admit that I like the looks of the junior a little better, I think I'd love the aesthetics of the medium action if it wasn't for the funky looking hammer. I guess that's the price you pay to have a block and hammer you can slip a 16ga shell over the top of..

    I think I'll just have to get the action in my hands and take some measurements. I've got a lovely piece of walnut that's been aging for longer than I have, that I'll probably make the furniture out of. And since there's no finish to begin with, I won't feel bad about re-finishing the gun as I build it.

    I like the idea of a .38-55, but I'm certainly open to other suggestions.

    I need to check out the DeHaas book, I think I've got it in box someplace...
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

  9. #29
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    NZ, I have a couple of the medium frames in the smaller calibers and they use a different hammer than the shotgun actions. I can supply you a tracing of the extractor if you need it. Currently, I have a dozen medium frames including 4 2 barrel sets and one cased set. It is cool to have a little different gun at the range. I am with Bent that I would like to have one in 8620 steel with threads. Maybe one day I will do the solid models and have some cast up. Later, moodyholler
    WTB single shots.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by moodyholler View Post
    NZ, I have a couple of the medium frames in the smaller calibers and they use a different hammer than the shotgun actions. I can supply you a tracing of the extractor if you need it. Currently, I have a dozen medium frames including 4 2 barrel sets and one cased set. It is cool to have a little different gun at the range. I am with Bent that I would like to have one in 8620 steel with threads. Maybe one day I will do the solid models and have some cast up. Later, moodyholler
    Hey, thanks for the offer! I'd be much obliged for a drawing of the extractor. I could probably make something work, but having a good basis would no doubt make that a bit easier!

    Do the 2 barrel sets have the shotgun hammer as well? Other than that, what are the differences between the medium shotgun frames and the medium rifle frames?

    It's interesting to me that the junior action (I assume) was also used for some of the .44-40 shot cartridge guns. I make that assumption based on old advertising drawings and a few photos I've found here and there.
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check