30-30 and sized OO

[Papa Jack]

I sized up a few OO buck shot to .309 They look like little foot balls. My intention was to load them in a super light 30-30 load. Whats a good load to start with.
Bullseye? Unique? or other fast burning pistol powders. Intent is for 10 yd plinkin fun or self/property defense against squirrels.
Ringing the chamber? is there potential

I have a Savage 24V single shot, (.30-30 over 20 Ga.) I like to load the .310" dia. Hornady Round balls ( 45 grains ) . These shoot really good and are very quiet.

I load 3 grains of Red Dot, I use a 1/4 square of Single ply Toilet paper for a over powder wad. Tap it down against the powder firmly.
CCI primer, and seat the ball down just below the case opening in the neck. I then smear a little bullet lube or grease over the end of the case.

Mine shoot nice and quiet and are pretty accurate. You can experiment with powders, I think I have used Unique and green dot too. Seems like the Red Dot shoots pretty clean. I don't notice leading, mostly grease in the barrel. I used some old GI Graphite Grease over the ball before I got to casting bullets.
These are good Rat rounds.... Have fun !! "Papa Jack"

PS: I have fired over 150 of these rounds, I never had any Chamber Ringing....

[mroliver77]

Gear, I set case in water to keep head cool. As lon as you dont get carried away they work great. I think for the 06 I would dril a two diameter hole. One 30 cal mebbe 1" deep and the rest of the way flash hole size.

[Dannix]

Hum, this may be a good use of zinc ww's.

Bulls Eye is the powder for this! It lites easy and burns well with very little pressure. I use a tuft of dacron to hold powder back. I dont worry about any air space with a 3 gr ob BE charge and 50ish gr RB.
With my cases filled with lead and a .30 cal hole drilled back to primer no dacron is needed and multiple balls can be used! With this setup I ave got down to 3/4 gr BE successfully. It helps to enlarge the flash hole for the very wimpy loads.
Jay

Now THAT'S pretty neat. I was wondering about reducing the case capacity of my .30-'06 for shooting 115-grain PB boolits at varmints at .32 rimfire velocities, sounds like the lead-filled-and-drilled case is the answer. At such low pressures I wouldn't be concerned about the hot lead annealing the case head much.

Gear

[Papa Jack]

Wonder if a guy could get away with using JB weld to use up some case capacity ? You only need to neck size the cases after firing, should work fine. Drills good, I'm sure it'll take that small amount of heat of the powder and primer....Might be worth a try.
"PJ"

[mpmarty]

Shucks fellas, they already sell a reducing adapter to shoot 32acp rounds in 06 and 308 why worry about drilling filled cases?

[mcskipper1]

My set-up is: .313" Dia. Round Ball=45 Gr. Bullseye 2.0 Gr. A 1" Sq of quilt batting over the powder. Push the ball flat with the end of the case.
Put bullet lube around the round ball.

700.6 Ft/Sec. from a 10" Contender.

[randyrat]

Papa Jack wrote-I load 3 grains of Red Dot, I use a 1/4 square of Single ply Toilet paper for a over powder wad. Tap it down against the powder firmly.
CCI primer, and seat the ball down just below the case opening in the neck. I then smear a little bullet lube or grease over the end of the case.

Do you tap the filler down and do you leave space between the filler and the projectile?

[deltaenterprizes]

Great thread with lots of interesting info!

[geargnasher]

I like the JB weld idea, too. Might have to try that, too. I wouldn't be a bit concerned about the heat. Also, a core could be made from a steel rod turned to the desired internal dimensions and coated with mould release.

Gear

[Papa Jack]

Papa Jack wrote-I load 3 grains of Red Dot, I use a 1/4 square of Single ply Toilet paper for a over powder wad. Tap it down against the powder firmly.
CCI primer, and seat the ball down just below the case opening in the neck. I then smear a little bullet lube or grease over the end of the case.

Do you tap the filler down and do you leave space between the filler and the projectile?

Yep, just tamp it down and load the ball and grease it and shoot it....I have not had any split cases or ringed chambers, they shoot good....
When the kids were little, thats the load I used for them to shoot beer cans....
If you are Fortunate enough to have TWO PLY tp......Some are soooo lucky ! I take the two ply and pull the plys apart, then just cut the squares into equal parts, poke the wad down with a pencil....or a dowel ....
I also have a chamber adapter to shoot .32 H&R Magnum in a .30-30, it works great too, using the Lee cast round nose 100 grn (?).. "PJ"

[Papa Jack]

Shucks fellas, they already sell a reducing adapter to shoot 32acp rounds in 06 and 308 why worry about drilling filled cases?

Hey speaking of these chamber reducers..... Sportsmans Guide has had them in the last couple catalogs for I think $15.00....might be wrong.
These are to fit 7.62 X54R Russian, .303 Brittish and I think another that I cannot recall. You might want to get them up on line and take a look ,they may still have some.
I have one made by the guy in Alaska, .30-30 X .32 H&R Magnum, shoots good, I'm using the Lee 100 grain ( 90 grn ??) RN boolit.
Not as easy to shoot as the round ball loads because you have to take the adapter out, then poke the fired case out, reload and repeat....

Have fun..... "PJ"

[Centaur 1]

I've been thinking about the JB Weld Idea. At first I was thinking that it would be a lot easier to drill than lead. My only concern would be if chunks of the material were to break free, and just lie in the barrel. I think that I'd be worried about that chunk working as a barrel obstruction. I don't think that the heat would be the problem, but rather the concussive forces at ignition.

[Papa Jack]

I've been thinking about the JB Weld Idea. At first I was thinking that it would be a lot easier to drill than lead. My only concern would be if chunks of the material were to break free, and just lie in the barrel. I think that I'd be worried about that chunk working as a barrel obstruction. I don't think that the heat would be the problem, but rather the concussive forces at ignition.

You may be correct, certainly something to keep in mind. That case will swell for an instant as the powder goes off, causing the JB to break contact with the brass.
I suppose a guy could try a couple shots and see what happens. Nice to have a single shot so the barrel can be checked after firing.
I just got to thinking about the primer flash hole....If the case is partially filled, that means you would have to hand de-prime each case . No big deal, just time. Getting a good lite on the powder may be a problem, primer flash only goes so far. This could be a trial and error as to just how far to FILL the case. And what if powder gets into the flash hole "tube" and ignites ? I dunno...Just have to try it I guess. Maybe the powder burning in the flash hole tube would help ignite the main charge ...

I think in one of my Cast Bullet books there is an article about reducing the case capacity of 45-70 or 458 cases, using .223 cases If I remember right. If I get a chance I will look that up and post it ,in case some one is interested..... "PJ"

[HORNET]

Gear, If you're still thinking about using JB Weld on those .30 calibers, you might chase down a piece of 5/16 diameter Delrin or UHMWPE rod instead of the steel rod. It would get you the correct inside diameter without any drilling and the epoxy won't stick to it. JB Weld is some very tough stuff and I'd think it would hold up for several shots.
PJ, I think Jim Carmichael(sp?) wrote about using .223 based volume reducers in .308 or .30-06 cases. I think he also mentioned an intent to try for a collapsible plastic sleeve so you wouldn't need to open the case mouth to .375 for installation and then neck it back down. I never saw any test results on a plastic sleeve ,though.

[Rocky Raab]

All this sounds like a terribly tedious solution to a non-existent problem. Just drop in a pinch of Bullseye or Nitro 100 or Solo 1000 or Clays or TiteGroup or RedDot or American Select or GreenDot or W231. Then seat the lubed buckshot and shoot 'em.

I've never had a problem with ignition or anything else doing it the easy way.

[DCP]

Lots of info here

Read it all

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=86949


This site has a wealth of information.

http://guns.connect.fi/gow/arcane1.html

[Papa Jack]

Gear, If you're still thinking about using JB Weld on those .30 calibers, you might chase down a piece of 5/16 diameter Delrin or UHMWPE rod instead of the steel rod. It would get you the correct inside diameter without any drilling and the epoxy won't stick to it. JB Weld is some very tough stuff and I'd think it would hold up for several shots.
PJ, I think Jim Carmichael(sp?) wrote about using .223 based volume reducers in .308 or .30-06 cases. I think he also mentioned an intent to try for a collapsible plastic sleeve so you wouldn't need to open the case mouth to .375 for installation and then neck it back down. I never saw any test results on a plastic sleeve ,though.

Gear, You are correct sir, I just looked up that article and it is by Jim Carmichel, and he is working on reducing powder capacity of the .30-06 Case using "de-rimmed" .223 rem. cases inserted into the 06 cases after expanding the case mouths to .375...
Info: "Cast Bullets: A case for Accuracy" by Jim Carmichel" from Handloader magazine.
This article is reprinted in "The Art of Bullet Casting from Handloader & Rifle Magazines 1966-1981" available from Wolf Publishing Company. I think these are still avail, in updated form, on CD.... "PJ"

[x101airborne]

I was so impressed by this, I went and tried it. My buckshot loads are pretty old and have spent a season in the salt, so i didn't mind cutting two loads open. One was 000 and one was 00. The 000 gave the best group .35 at 30 yards (my open sight limit for squirrels) and yielded a boolit weight of 60 gr. The 00 shot closest to sight picture but groups opened to about 3/4 an inch. no relative noise, and fun to boot!! My accuracy load was Win brass, Win lp primers, 1.5 gr bullseye and Winchester factory buckshot. i Thank the origional poster of this thread. now i can carry two loads in the woods for one rifle. Them corn stealin, tattle tailin, furry little tree rats better watch it.

[JIMinPHX]

Once upon a time, when I lived in a very restrictive state, I used to load up 90 grain Hornady XTP pistol bullets in a .30-30 to hunt ground hogs. They're not as cheap as buckshot, but they could be loaded down pretty far, being a bullet that was designed to operate at pistol pressures & velocities. The folks at Hornady were pretty cooperative about giving me the info that I needed to get that combination to perform well.

[Thumbcocker]

Size "0" shot over 3 grns of red dot works well for me in .30-30 and .30-40 just roll them around in lla and load half way down. They will function through levers. I tried Hornaday swaged .32 HBWC's but the shot loads were more accurate. Next up is the soup can over the same charge. Final cheap load is 311291 over 6.o of red dot in .30-30 sans gas check. Your resized 00 shot is what Frank Marshal called a swaged oblong ball. I just use size 0 shot to keep things simple.