Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad DataRepackbox
Reloading EverythingTitan ReloadingLee PrecisionWideners
RotoMetals2 Snyders Jerky
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 27

Thread: ::: Which mold is best: Brass, Steal, Aluminum?

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    xXFREEDOMisNOTfreeXx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    11

    Question ::: Which mold is best: Brass, Steal, Aluminum?

    Hey guys, just wanted to get a thread started based on everyone's opinion of which mold is the best. Brass, Steal, Aluminum, or any other alloy. If you respond to this thread with your opinion it would be desired to have PRO's and CON's of why you think this. I'm really interested in what the master's of the trade have to say, so pour onto me your knowledge base please. I think this will help a lot of the NEWB's like me out there invest in the best from the start.

    Thanks Guys!
    "I carry a gun cuz a cop is too heavy." Clint Smith

    "If you carry a gun, people call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what in the world do I have to be paranoid about?" Clint Smith

    "People Don’t Care How Much You Know Until They Know How Much You Care" Theodore Roosevelt

    "Whoever Smelt it, Delt it" Greenhorn44

    MEMBER OF:
    Blue Grass Sportsmens League (BGSL)

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,405
    ALUMINUM-affordable, light weight (especially for 4 cavity and up), rustproof. Cons are relatively fragile, and don't hold heat the way IRON does.

    BRASS- Rustproof and COOL looking and hold the heat better than AL. Cons are they are some what heavy (prefered for 3 cavity or less) and tend to be expensive (usually only available as CUSTOM). More fagile than IRON.

    IRON-Least fragile of all and will hold heat well. Affordable and "factory" available from RCBS & LYMAN. Cons are they are heavy when approaching 4 cavity and not rustproof.

    My preference is IRON as I've used all three types. Will "take a licking and keep on ticking"! BRASS would be second. JMHO--your milage might vary!

    Winelover

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Calamity Jake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Okla. City
    Posts
    2,471
    +1 on what winelover said and I too prefer the steel
    Calamity Jake

    NRA Life Member
    SASS 15704
    Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,456
    I have moulds of all three materials and have no problem casting well with all three.

    Aluminum -

    PRO
    casts well, is light (six cavities are not a weight problem), material is relatively inexpensive and does not rust.

    Con;
    Fragile (if even lead is allowed to build up on the underside of sprue plate it can seriously damage the mould).

    Brass -

    PRO
    Casts best of all, is durable, takes a very nice finish when machining, is rust free, and is, by far, the best looking. It is NO problem, weight wise, for four cavities. Material is relatively expensive
    (but MiHec's brass moulds are a bargain in spite of this).
    CON
    It is relatively heavy and should be limited to four cavities maximum

    IRON
    PRO
    Casts well, is relatively inexpensive, and is durable. Can cast up to four cavities without issue
    CON
    Rusts without provocation, is heavy (should be limited to four cavity).

    I have tried to be objective here but I admit I am biased somewhat in favor of brass. Brass moulds, at least as far as the MiHec moulds are concerned (I have the most experience with MiHec brass moulds although I have used others with excellent results, also) are works of art.

    As an example, I would pick a FOUR cavity brass mould over a SIX cavity aluminum mould (and I have) every time the choice is presented.

    At the end of the day, however, personal preference rules. The better mould makers use high quality materials whether they are aluminum, brass or iron. Quality materials DO make a difference.

    It MUST be said:
    You must take care of ALL bullet moulds regardless of the material they are made of. I have seen both iron and aluminum moulds ruined by corrosion (and in the case of iron, rust). I had a friend put an aluminum mould away wet in a military ammo box (he was dipping in water while casting to control heat) and it was heavily corroded when later retrieved. I am sure a brass mould could corrode also if similarly treated. I treat all bullet moulds as if they were as expensive as a Swiss watch. You'll be happier if you do the same.

    FWIW
    Dale53

  5. #5
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    West of Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    8,414
    There was a man named Walt Melander who was a well-respected mould maker.
    He made moulds from aluminum, and from a type of iron called 'meehanite'.

    His iron moulds were much more expensive than those in aluminum, but many thought the 'special meehanite' was a magical material.

    Once Walt was asked which he thought was the better material. He said the aluminum he used was a perfect mould material, but as long as people would pay his price...he would continue to cut meehanite moulds.

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,456
    ADDENDUM (to my post above). After I posted that I realized that I had left one part out that I believe should be mentioned.

    We are without a doubt some of the most fortunate shooters EVER. Right here on this forum we have access to some absolutely FINE custom bullet moulds - just maybe the best EVER. I am speaking of MiHec, NOE, and LBT. I have not yet had the pleasure of using a BRP mould but would expect that they meet the highest standards. I HAVE been using MiHec, NOE, and LBT moulds and can say first hand, they are near wonderful! My examples are unbelievably round and have correct specs, and each cavity is as like each and every other cavity as it is possible to make. MiHec, NOE, and LBT make aluminum moulds. MiHec is the only one that uses brass, also (at least for now, I believe).

    If I were to be honest with you, and I certainly intend to be - I would be happy with any of these if I were to be without choice. These are GREAT moulds. I approach each casting session with a smile on my face - they are THAT nice to use.

    When you factor all of the above and realize that we can have these CUSTOM moulds that are spec'd CORRECTLY for around $100.00 in four, five, or six cavities it is MIND BOGGLING!

    All of that said, when I have a choice, I pick brass.

    All of the above is MY opinion, only. But, you did ask

    Dale53

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,405
    Quote Originally Posted by montana_charlie View Post
    There was a man named Walt Melander who was a well-respected mould maker.
    He made moulds from aluminum, and from a type of iron called 'meehanite'.

    His iron moulds were much more expensive than those in aluminum, but many thought the 'special meehanite' was a magical material.

    Once Walt was asked which he thought was the better material. He said the aluminum he used was a perfect mould material, but as long as people would pay his price...he would continue to cut meehanite moulds.

    CM
    Coming from a "mould maker", I would take that with a "grain of salt". Aluminum is easier for him to machine as well as easier on his tooling! FWIW.

    Winelover

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Three-Fifty-Seven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    2,409
    I agree with Dale, I like my brass molds from MiHec

    Also I believe there are different qualities of Aluminum used for mold making, I believe that Lee uses the cheaper/softer version.
    John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Eastern South Dakota
    Posts
    3,662
    This was on page 3. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=42570

    Lots of good data there on this queston.


    Cat
    Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

    (I think, therefore I'm armed.)

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,456
    Catshooter;
    Regarding "page 3". You will note that I did not mention brass in my post - that was a year ago. Man, what difference a year has made.

    Dale53

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Eastern South Dakota
    Posts
    3,662
    I know what you mean Dale. The first brass mould I bought was from Walt in the mid-eighties. That was enough to convert me.


    Cat
    Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

    (I think, therefore I'm armed.)

  12. #12
    In Remebrance


    Bret4207's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    St Lawrence Valley, NY
    Posts
    12,924
    Brass is the ultimate as far as I'm concerned. Types of iron and aluminum vary. Walts old NEI aluminums are nicer than the Lee material.

  13. #13
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    West of Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    8,414
    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    Coming from a "mould maker", I would take that with a "grain of salt". Aluminum is easier for him to machine as well as easier on his tooling! FWIW.
    You don't trust people who are 'in the trade' to give you accurate advice?

    You probably wouldn't go to a saddlemaker for advice on leather quality, or to a cattleman for a run-down on beef.
    Would you be more likely to trust PETA for information on both of those?

    Have you ever handled a mould (of any material) made by Walt Melander?

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwestern Ohio
    Posts
    8,456
    When I ordered a custom mould from NEI (a number of years ago) I asked Walt if he could make me a four cavity mould for my BPCR (I was shooting BPCR Silhouette at the time). I told him that the bullets had to be enough alike that I could shoot a minute of angle or better without trying to segregate bullets. He assured me that I would be pleased. I also asked him about his opinion regarding aluminum vs steel. He said steel is harder to work and costs more. His choice would be aluminum from his shop.

    I took Walt at his word. The mould was everything I had hoped for. Production of enough bullets to improve my standing in BPCR-Sil is incredibly hard to do with a single cavity mould. Everyone told me that multi-cavity moulds would not produce bullets that would be of match quality. Well, "EVERYONE" was wrong. The NEI four cavity aluminum mould worked like a charm. Off a bench, in good conditions, I got ten shot groups at 500 yards that ran from 6"-8". My friends, with a BPCR, that is shooting! (I was shooting off a portable bench with a 20 power scope mounted for testing.) I never looked back.

    Since then I have met others (MiHec, NOE, and LBT) that can do the same and more. We are living in the Golden Age of Bullet Moulds NOW! I feel blessed!

    Dale53

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,405
    Quote Originally Posted by montana_charlie View Post
    You don't trust people who are 'in the trade' to give you accurate advice?

    You probably wouldn't go to a saddlemaker for advice on leather quality, or to a cattleman for a run-down on beef.
    Would you be more likely to trust PETA for information on both of those?

    Have you ever handled a mould (of any material) made by Walt Melander?

    CM
    See post #2---I explained why I like IRON over the others--DURABILITY! Having used all three types, I am capable of making an informed decision on my own. Thank you!

    Winelover

  16. #16
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    West of Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    8,414
    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    See post #2---I explained why I like IRON over the others--DURABILITY!
    You most certainly did. As it happens, I share that opinion.

    However, as people laid out opinions for the o/p, I offered one supplied by a mould maker...for him to consider along with the rest.
    You cautioned us that Melander (for reasons relating to profit) is unlikely to have given an honest answer.

    You are welcome to your opinion on materials. No need to thank me.
    I was asking you to specify that experience which gives you cause to question the man's integrity.

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Paw Paw, Michigan
    Posts
    2,008
    Well honestly I don't have the casting experience of many on this board, I think I'm going on 5 years now so take it for what it is worth.
    My first experience was a second hand RCBS250KT 44 mould, and a Lee 10 pound bottom pour, with simple tumble lube and a lee push through, looking back it was a good way to cast and the boolits worked and good. I played with pressure casting and many other things with this little setup and learned a lot.
    Since then I've run the full circle of moulds, although I have a couple of Lee moulds, likely I'll not buy any more, I have Mihec brass, Mihec aluminum, NOE aluminum, and RCBS and Lyman Iron, and now 3 Mountain Mold 3 cavity aluminum.
    I prefer Iron, but my favorite moulds are my MM's, I have one Walt era aluminum that is simply awesome, my favorite 44 mould is the Mihec aluminum 503 6 banger, with all that said, don't think it matters much, it's the mould maker that counts, oh forgot the one Doughty 45 brass mould is a delight too. The NOE 5 cavity 358429 drops a boolit that will rival any, and fast.
    Basically any of these guys above can make me a mould any day out of anything they want, and it'll be a keeper.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,405
    Quote Originally Posted by montana_charlie View Post
    I was asking you to specify that experience which gives you cause to question the man's integrity.

    CM
    Wasn't questioning Melander's integrity per se, just "mould makers" in general. Just pointing out that OPTIONS are nice to have. Given a choice, I will ALWAYS select a "mould maker" that offers a VARIETY of mould block materials over one that only offers a "select" few. Ultimately, I the CUSTOMER, get to decide what material is best for me. Not being steered by the maker's LIMITED choices, regardless of his AGENDA! After all, isn't THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT?

    Winelover

  19. #19
    Boolit Master on Heavens Range
    felix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    fort smith ar
    Posts
    9,678
    Anyway, the customer will realize his actual score on his Judgment Day. ... felix
    felix

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    565
    The best molds I have used are Hensley & Gibbs iron molds. Original Cramer is the equal of H&G. Followed by RCBS, Old West, Mihec, Modern Bond, and Lyman. Mostly iron, some brass, and a couple aluminum (Mihec). The workmanship is as important as the material. My preference is for iron.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check