MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Snyders JerkyTitan Reloading
Load DataRepackboxReloading EverythingInline Fabrication
Wideners Lee Precision
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: ID wax

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dead center MT
    Posts
    65

    ID wax

    Is there an easy way to tell if wax is microcrystalline or common run of the mill canning paraffin wax? I inherited about a 10 lb slab from my father awhile back and at the time I assumed it was paraffin wax so never asked about it. But as I think about, I'm not so sure anymore, and my father passed away a number of years ago so can't ask him. When I got it, I also got 50 to 60 lbs of beeswax that was with it. Now I know the beeswax came from my father's 3rd cousin removed a couple times who lived just down the road from us who kept bees. Would a beekeeper use store bought wax? And if so, what would it be?

    To complicate matters, my father was a carpenter at one time who was foreman at a small custom boat building factory that later burned and then after the factory was rebuilt made toboggans. I'm pretty sure the factory used wax in making the toboggans, and perhaps in the boats - but I was pretty young in the boat building phase and can't remeber much about it. He also made a few toboggans in his later years in his workshop as gifts to his grandsons. So, it's possible my father obtained it from the facoty, or purchased it later in life and just kept it with the beeswax.

    Now I'm going to make myself some lube and if I can be reasonably sure it's microcrystalline wax, I'll use it. If not, I'll guess I'll use it for fluxing, and purchase some microcrystalline wax mail order. TIA.

  2. #2
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    what id do is mix it all together and consider it beeswax.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    The Island of Misfit Toys
    Posts
    5,951
    Quote Originally Posted by gutshot_again View Post
    Is there an easy way to tell if wax is microcrystalline or common run of the mill canning paraffin wax? If it bends and is flexible, and softish' at 60 degrees is is proably micro, if it is brittle and chalky looking it is proably parraffinhit it with a hammer, if it breaks it is not the micro you are wanting in a lube. t I would consider it plain parraffin if it breaks. There are some hard grades of micro, but they act like parraffin in a lube and I would treat them the same, only difference is that the hard micros hold a bit more oil without additives. More than likely you have parraffin that he waxed the wood with for slickum on the snow. If you are unsure, just make sure that it is not a MAIN ingredient if you have to use it in a lube. I inherited about a 10 lb slab from my father awhile back and at the time I assumed it was paraffin wax so never asked about it. But as I think about, I'm not so sure anymore, and my father passed away a number of years ago so can't ask him. When I got it, I also got 50 to 60 lbs of beeswax that was with it. Now I know the beeswax came from my father's 3rd cousin removed a couple times who lived just down the road from us who kept bees. Would a beekeeper use store bought wax? And if so, what would it be?

    To complicate matters, my father was a carpenter at one time who was foreman at a small custom boat building factory that later burned and then after the factory was rebuilt made toboggans. I'm pretty sure the factory used wax in making the toboggans, and perhaps in the boats - but I was pretty young in the boat building phase and can't remeber much about it. He also made a few toboggans in his later years in his workshop as gifts to his grandsons. So, it's possible my father obtained it from the facoty, or purchased it later in life and just kept it with the beeswax.

    Now I'm going to make myself some lube and if I can be reasonably sure it's microcrystalline wax, I'll use it. If not, I'll guess I'll use it for fluxing, and purchase some microcrystalline wax mail order. TIA.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dead center MT
    Posts
    65
    Thanks Michael. As chance would have it, it's 60 here today <grin>. It's a chalky color and will not bend - just breaks. I also smacked a chunk with a hammer and it crumbled and fell apart. I guess I have a whole lot of paraffin and will use it for fluxing.

    Thank you.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check