???QUESTION: cleaning out old lube (Lyman 4500)

[magmoose]

Any suggestions or techniques for changing out lube in a Ly-4500? I have used it once with red stuff but now have a new LBT mold and soft blue stuff. What is your favorite way to clean out the old, if you please.

thanks

moose

[RobS]

Blow dryer works, some use a heat gun used in body shops, blow torch as been used, boiling the unit in water, put it on a hot plate, if your temperatures are hot enough outside then some have put the entire thing in a black trash bag and hung it out in the sun, just make sure that you have the lubricator upside down so the lube can run out.

The last suggestion maybe what you are after being in Mississippi as the heat wave continues

Those are a few suggestions

[magmoose]

Thanks,,, we are having a cold spell here,,, only 94 degrees today!!!


appreciate suggestions

moose

[cheese1566]

Set it in the direct sun upside down if that hot out.

Or the old mil stock Cosmoline removal- wrap in newspaper and place on the dash of your car with the windows rolled up. (Just don't sit in the car and wait!)

[magmoose]

UPDATE......

First, thanks for the suggestions!!!

I want to tell you what it takes to clean real stiff lube out of a Lyman 4500.

First, I tried putting the sizer in a black garbage bag, up side down in a tupperware container (to catch the melted lube). It was in the mid 90s here and I left it in the full sun for 12 hours,,, NO SUCCESS with Rooster Red Lube. It wasn't even soft. Second, I tried a hair dryer,,, NO SUCCESS. The third thing was to boil it in a pot. I thought it was impossible to clean out when I saw bubbles on top of the water but no lube. I left it longer, and after about 10 minutes I started seeing red lube on top. After another 15 minutes most of the lube was on top of the boiling water. A few minutes longer and almost all was out of the luber/sizer.

Hot in Mississippi,

moose

[geargnasher]

I boil mine. Something I've found that makes it MUCH easier to actually get the sizer clean is use a half/teaspoon of Dawn in the water, it really gets the lube off of the metal surfaces.

I also blow-dry the sizer inside and out with compressed air, which gets the last little bit of lube out of the nooks and crannies.

Gear

[whitewolf68]

Just cleaned out my lubrisizer tonight. It was quite easy. Took it off the bench, with a large flat head screwdriver I scrapped out what I could. Took out the die and all other components and cleaned them with "brakekleen". It took the moly right off of the die itself and all other parts. Next I took the heat gun on high and melted everything else out of the casting. While it was still hot I sprayed the "brakekleen" inside and it just boiled the rest of the left over away. Over all the casting looks like new on the inside and no traces of the black moly lube at all. All in all it was about a 25 minute job.

Time to load up some BAC in there and be done with the moly

[GP100man]

Yep , it takes heat !

Remove the pressure screw & die & apply it , be patient it`ll come out !

[beagle]

You guys make me jealous with those clean sizers. Mine looks like ball of lube with moving parts but it's been a long time since cleaning./beagle

[GP100man]

Beagle

When I first started out I use lees 50/50 & Lymans black moly !!!

Then cleaned it up & went to rooster red ,then orange magic (too hard & did`nt meet expectations)

Found Glenns CR lube & it`s just rite as my way of thinking ,but that`s just my opinion.

CR is easy to control & it lets ya know when it`s warm enuff but ya can still get messy with it if not paying attention !

[canyon-ghost]

I'm all for Carnuba Red in my handguns, have some 50/50 alox for rifle too.