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Thread: Improved Sprue Plates... Any Interest?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Marvin S's Avatar
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    Just a thought but when replacing a thin light weight factory one with a heavy duty steel one I would think the small light weight pivot screw would need upgraded also.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    Would you guys want that to be made out of steel or aluminum?
    I would think steel....but I just want better.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doby45 View Post
    Steel for sure.. I have a 6 banger that I would love a trough in like a H&G sprue plate..
    That gets my vote as well
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  4. #24
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    Yes. Steel, Jim, steel.

    I did what Crabo did, purchased a 45* TiN coated carbide countersink and fix all my El Cheapo Lee two-banger plates. I think those moulds could be greatly improved with a thicker (1/4" would be plenty) sprue plate.

    Opinions on best well angle?

    Gear

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    ANeat, how is that trough working out for you? I had considered doing something like that, but I wasn't sure if it would help or hurt.
    Jim it works great, like others mentioned its like other molds (H&G) from the past. Ballisti-Cast still makes theirs like that. Others may also??

    It would be tough to pull off with a thin plate but on thicker plates its great.

    Helps keep the lead from running/overflowing everywhere. You can just start the lead flowing and move from cavity to cavity without meking a mess

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Argh! I need one for my Lee 6 cavity molds!!!

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    I should have material here tomorrow to make one. I'll post pictures when it's done.
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
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  8. #28
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    I should have material here tomorrow to make one. I'll post pictures when it's done.
    I was hoping this would happen.....
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    Woooooooooohooooooooooooooooooooooo
    Good, Cheap, Fast: Pick two.

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  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Talking

    Gussy is the one that made up thick sprue plates with longer handles to make it easier to cut the sprue, I bought several my self and they work great.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    I should have material here tomorrow to make one. I'll post pictures when it's done.
    Oh dude....that would be terrific....I need like 3 of them. If they work anything like your hollow pointing jig, we're gold.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbitNutz View Post
    I need like 3 of them.
    It looks like I might need to get more material on Monday
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    It looks like I might need to get more material on Monday
    I love you man! (Please recall the beer commercial when reading this)

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    OK,
    who want's to be the first victim? ...er, a, I mean who want's to be the guinea pig & try out the first one?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6bangSprue.JPG  
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  15. #35
    Boolit Master



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    The sprue plates I have on my BRP and NOE molds are FAR superior to any other (Lyman, RCBS, Lee, etc) that I have. Just easier to work with.

    Venting the mold -- or the sprue plate or top of mold on a problematic mold has cured ALL of my issues with picky molds. I think Linstrum turned me on to that a while back. Never ruined ANY of my expensive steel molds ---- and I've never NEEDED to revent any of my aluminum BRP or NOE molds because they are already vented right with the "Knurled"???? type of venting instead of just the lines that other molds have..

    Nice looking plates though Jim, I'd buy some if I didn't know how to fix mine.................

    Art

    Art
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  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    OK,
    who want's to be the first victim? ...er, a, I mean who want's to be the guinea pig & try out the first one?
    Me! What do I have to do??

  17. #37
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    If I was nit pickin', I'd extend the trough another 1/4 inch on each end.

    What is the wheel for? Hand opening? I would like something I can hit with a mallet. I've got a good rhythm going using the mallet. I use a hickory sledge handle to open the bottom pour pot, then cool it on a wet rag, whack the sprue, open, tap the hinge bolt if needed and keep on without having to pick up or set anything down.
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    AbitNutz called for it first, so the prototype will go to him for evaluation. There will be no charge for it, but I will ask him to please post his results after he tries it.

    The "wheel" is there because after I made the plate, I tried it on a mold & found that the steel didn't extend beyond the handles, so there was no good place to hit it. The round piece of aluminum was a quick way of attaching something that would stick out far enough to be hit without damaging the mold handles. Future versions will be made out of steel that is 1/2" wider & will not need the wheel.

    There is 1 other error on the sprue plate that I am aware of. The notch, near the center of it, where the hold down bolt grabs it, is a little too deep. I had a bad number on my drawing when I made it. That will be fixed on the next one too. It will work the way it is, but it just doesn't look quite right (because it isn't)

    Depending on the feedback I get, I may extend the trough. The door is still open on that one.

    This thing is just a first prototype. I'm expecting to need to make a few changes.
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Jim:

    Looks VERY nice !

    I think extending the trough a bit may be a good idea as well !

    Put me on the "sign-up list" for three to experiment with !

    Jerry
    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  20. #40
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    My reasoning on extending the trough is because:

    1. It gives each end cavity, two places to draw from.

    2. H&G does it that way. (maybe that should be the first reason.)

    Do you have an idea on cost yet? I really like the way it is developing.
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check