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Thread: # 45 Lyman Lubesizer HELP

  1. #1
    Boolit Man Tom_et's Avatar
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    # 45 Lyman Lubesizer HELP

    I got this in a" Pay it forward" type offer
    I now need to figure how to get it too work ?
    Thats where you experts come in
    I am Missing the inner Lube ROD ? the one that goes inside the Lube Holder ?
    Can I make one ? or use a part from another type machine ?
    I took as many Pictures as I could so you guys can tell me what I need,
    or if I have a scrap Pile.
    I cleaned and sanded it ,It now seems to be somewhat functional ?
    My plans are to use it on my ww cast 45's and 357's
    I just started casting so excuse me for all the Green horn Questions
    I know I will need sizer's but the Lube rod is my Concern at the moment
    If anyone has one can you take a Picture of the Lube rod so I could
    check it out ?
    I also don't understand the function of the way it will Press the Lube down
    in the You-tubes videos, I see they ratchet a top bolt or something too keep pressure on the lube to keep it Pushing into the sizer to fill the bullet
    Makes me think the Rod Moves so the top Plate will screw down

    Thanks
    Tom

















    Last edited by Tom_et; 06-01-2010 at 05:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    That's a remarkably clean lube sizer. I am pretty sure that Lyman will have the parts you want and that there is an exploded view diagram, parts list somewhere on the net but I have searched for half and hour and came up empty. Someone here will have a link to it.
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

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    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    AZ Pete's Avatar
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    The pressure screw from a 450 (or 4500?) will fit a 45, but you will need to ream out the reservoir cap to fit the larger diameter of the stem. Also you can get a new pressure nut that takes "o" rings (again for the 450/4500)....since you are going to pay shipping on the screw anyway.

    Sorry I can't provide the part numbers, as I cannot find the diagram on the new improved Lyman parts web parts catelog (http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page150.html.) Hopefully someone will chime in if I got the parts names wrong. Anyway for a few bucks you will be in good shape.
    NRA Endowment Life Member

  4. #4
    Boolit Master phaessler's Avatar
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    The Lyman 450 exploded view is:


    The Lyman 4500 exploded view is :


    Hope this helps....


    Pete
    Last edited by phaessler; 06-01-2010 at 08:49 PM. Reason: fixed image file

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    I have a PDF of the 45 manual I can email you tomorrow from my home. Let me know if you want it.

    It does not have a parts breakdown however.....

    Doug
    Last edited by 94Doug; 06-01-2010 at 09:11 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man Tom_et's Avatar
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    You guys are Great
    I see just what I've got and Need
    and if there is More to Know I'm all ears
    Many Thanks
    Tom

  7. #7
    Boolit Master cheese1566's Avatar
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    Yep,
    order a new pressure screw and o-ring style nut.

    In the first photos, the return push rod is upside down. The flat end should go on the top to push the inner of the sizer die up on the return stroke.

    Just be careful not to over tighten the setscrew that hold sth esizer die on the casting. that area is prone to cracking if one is overzealous. But if so, they can be brazed and out back into action.

    Looks good though! Sand blast and repaint in a color you like! The steel guide rods polish up nicely when chucked in a drill and spun with polish and a rag or #0000 steel wool.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man Tom_et's Avatar
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    Cheese thank you
    I looked at your Projects via the PM Nice work
    Don't know if I have your Time Talent,Tools
    But I really like how you do things
    I will Polish the Rods
    BTW when I got this it was Froze
    and a Bit Dis Mantled
    and real Filthy
    what I did so far was with
    Sand paper and Brake Cleaner
    Tom

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just finished up on one like yours. Came out very nice. Rustolium has the proper color orange paint for the Lyman tools. I took the paint off of the top cap and polished it with Mothers Mag Wheel polish, came out looking like chrome.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man Tom_et's Avatar
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    Thanks for the Paint info
    I think I'm going to have some time tonight to Clean up the slide rods

    Tom

  11. #11
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    i used chevy orange hi heat fu fu can for mine ( seems to be holding up to the heat and the boiling better than what's on my rcbs and thaz original factory paint lolz )

  12. #12
    Boolit Man Tom_et's Avatar
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    Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things

    Tom

  13. #13
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    I got a spare luber that is the Lyman #45 and I modified it so it takes the threaded sizing die nut. I didn't like the arrangement Lyman had to secure the sizer die and it's obvious why they didn't use that system in the 450 and 4500. I also converted to the dual O-ring piston and now the machine is a good machine.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master



    Echo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_et View Post
    Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things

    Tom
    >I< use a drop light, when using a hard lube. Seldom happens, since I usually use 50/50. There are other methods...
    Echo
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Tom_et: don't be afraid to call Lyman customer service. They will sell you the small parts at their price. If their price is high they will send you to someone (Mid-South/Midway) that will sell it cheaper. When ever I have talked to them they have been very knowledgeable and helpful.

  16. #16
    Boolit Man
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    I just had to order a new lube pressure screw from lyman. Part cost is $4, shipping was $4.
    Dan Dabson
    Dover, DE
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  17. #17
    In Remembrance
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_et View Post
    Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things
    I 'rearranged' the parts of a coffee cup warmer to create a heated base which the #45 mounts on top of.
    The original control panel is still intact, which provides an on/off switch and a hi/lo switch. If you're patient, 'Hi' will raise press temperature up to about 100 degrees in a room temperature setting (which seems like plenty to me) and the 'Lo' setting will maintain that temperature pretty well.

    However, I found that the BP lubes I use don't require heat. So, it never gets turned on any more...

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    after the parts & paint , DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW THAT HOLDS THE DIE !!!!!

    I found 2 45 sizers & both had the caseing split at the set screw , 1 looked new !
    GP100man

  19. #19
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    OK, finally found this thread again. Just got an old 45 in good condition less handle and linkage, cleaned it up and tried it out tonight and works wonderfully except lube leaks past the plunger piston about the same rate as it is consumed by the boolits. What are you folks using to convert to o-ring-style piston? Is it the 450/4500 piston? Are the threads the same on the screw between all three, or will I need to get a screw from another model, too?

    BTW, I have yet to figure out why anyone would consider the 450 an "upgrade" to the 45. On the 450 the die screw loves to cross-thread, the ram wears out the casting in just a few thousand cycles and bends boolits, the top punches have to be pulled out with pliers because of the blind hole in the ram, the "lock ring" on the bottom plunger stop won't stay put with just finger pressure, the handle has a tendency to whack one on the forehead if not parked properly, and everything takes either a wrench, pliers or an allen screw to disassemble/adjust. My 450 will have a new home tomorrow.

    Gear

  20. #20
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    just the pressure nut and perhaps coupla spare o-rings , u could also order the whole starred kit # 2745817 . no handle huh ..i keep seein one on evil bay that i've seen whole sizers go for less , on the brass ring check for bends,nicks etc ,if it's leaking at the split some jb weld used judicially mite fix it ,if it's a large area that's leaking try gently expanding the ring there and try to use no more pressure than needed ( lil clicks )

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