How do i buff a linseed finish to a shine?

[sheepdog]

I've seen stocks that have been buffed like this, just not sure how.

[danski26]

First let me say I have not worked with linseed oil but I am assuming it is the same as the oils I have worked with.

The stock should be sanded smooth and the grain filled before the "top coats" of oil are applied. I won't go into a complete explanation of how to finish a stock here but after it is prepped you apply the oil by hand rubbing it on all parts of the stock. I usually cut the oil 1 part oil 3 parts mineral spirits. After the oil has been rubbed on you wipe it off with a clean dry soft rag. A microscopic film of oil is left on the stock. Do this many more times. The more you rub on and wipe off "let dry between applications" the higher the gloss. You will start with flat move to satin and then on to a gloss finish. I have never buffed any of my stocks after oil has been applied. That is what I call a hand rubbed oil finish.

[calaloo]

In a word, or two in this case---Elbow grease. Each time you apply a coat of linseed oil just rub the devil out of it untill it is smooth and shines. Wait several days and do it again. do this over and over untill you are satisfied. Hand rubbed linseed oil will not have a high gloss finish, but will have a satin appearance.

[Bret4207]

IME I would suggest not touching it with a cloth until it's really dry, which may mean several days or even weeks. Rub it in with the palm of your hand using many light coats. The heat from your hand will help it spread and sink in. When it gets really dry- absolutely no tacky feel whatsoever, you can rub it more with a lint free cloth. Use a common tee shirt or something like that and you may be sorry. Be very choosy about what cloth you use. There are lint free colths available, or there used to be, from auto refinishing suppliers. I foget the type, but it's lint free cotton. If it gets a "pebbled" or non smooth looking finish you'll have to even it out with pumice stone and apply more oil over that.

Best to read some of the older gunsmith books as they cover linseed finishes in detail.

[Hardcast416taylor]

An old gunsmith once told me about getting a glossy finish with oil.

Rub in a coating of the oil once a day, each day, for a week.
Rub in a coat of the oil once a week for a month.
Rub a coat of the oil in the stock once a month for a year.
Rub a coat of the oil in the stock once a year for the rest of your life!

Robert

[sheepdog]

So far I've put three coats on thickly by hand, rubbing it into the pours, then letting it sit for 15 minutes and wiping off the excess. Next day doing the same. Its starting to turn a nice dark honey ale color but not tacky, pores aren't really filling, and doesn't feel warm like I hear BLO is supposed to.

[danski26]

Filling the grain needs to be done before you apply the top coats of oil. You dont NEED to fill the grain but i think it looks better. After about 25 to 50 coats you should get gloss. I wouldn't let it set for 15 min either. Wipe it off as soon as it is completly covered IMHO.

[Pepe Ray]

I'm surprised that this hasn't been mentioned. Perhaps you've already discovered that there are 2 versions of Linseed oil available. Raw and processed. The processed or "boiled" oil is the preferred product for treating gun stocks.
Pepe Ray

[jmsj]

Too get a good sheen on gunstocks we've always used tung oil. It seems to work a little better for us. My father calls it a warm glow. It stills takes a lot of coats and elbow grease. We used 0000 steel wool to apply and buff the oil.

[fecmech]

I have never worked with straight linseed oil but have done a couple stocks with Tru Oil which I think is pretty close. Once you fill the grain and have some finish on top of the wood you can wet sand with automotive 1500 grit wet/dry paper and then use clear coat rubbing compound to bring up the shine.

[Rock]

I use pure tung oil. I would also be willing to use raw linseed oil if I had no access to pure tung oil. I do not use any product containing the word "Finish". "Finish" includes un-necessary hardeners or sealers or varnishes which I do not desire.

BLO is an adultered product with additives that are not needed in my rifle stocks.

Tru Oil is another adultered product. Quote from their website: "TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish penetrates deeply and forms a tough, clear, hard finish that protects and enhances the beauty of fine woods. For a hand rubbed, satin luster, simply buff with steel wool and rubbing compound or use Stock Sheen & Conditioner. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage. Use the liquid for fast filling of the pores and the aerosol for the final finish. "

[atr]

"raising" the grain beforehand helps...
to raise the grain spray on water over the sanded stock, then lightly sand (steel wool works best) to remove the raised grain. repeat this until you can no longer fell the raised grain after wetting.
THEN I would have applied the Linseed oil.
Let the Linseed oil dry completely before you start rubbing it down. Linseed oil gets tacky if it is not allowed to dry between coats.
If you have access to a buffing wheel, then you could also do buffing with a VERY soft buffing wheel.

[gnoahhh]

Make a paste out of BLO, beeswax, and mineral spirits (or turpentine if you prefer). Proportions are about 50% solvent, 25% oil and wax each. Melt the wax and add the rest. Jockey the amount of wax until you end up with a paste about the consistency of shoe polish, or a little softer. DO THIS OUTSIDE as this a fire hazard!

After you're done oiling the stock (using whatever oil and method you settle on), polish it with the paste. Wax on, wax off- polish with a soft cloth.

Two thoughts: Raw linseed oil will take forever to dry, if at all. Use the "boiled" linseed oil. Second, any oil finish is a p*ss poor barrier for water. Looks good, but won't protect your stock in a rain storm. The real benefit will come from the protection offered by the wax you finish with, and even that's nothing compared to a good barrier finish such as varnish.

[SPRINGFIELDM141972]

If I want it to gloss I use Carbanuba auto wax. After you have finished the stock to the degree that you want with oil , hit it with some wax and get out your sunglasses. I personally don't care for a gloss finish but most all of the refinish jobs that come in the owner wants a gloss finish.

Everett

[KCSO]

After the stock is sanded, whiskered, sanded and steel wooled and garin filled if you prefer you...
1st Coat I usually mix 50/50 lindseed oil, boiled and turpentine and soak the stock down good. When it gets tacky wipe it all off and let it dry for a week wiping it dry if any more comes to the surface.
Then you rub in a coat of oil only and rub it till your plam blisters and let it dry for a week, do this over and over till you hands are 1 " of calus. After about 6 months you will have a nice satin finish that is unfortunatly NOT waterproof and won't keep a stock from warping. But it is somewhat traditional. Tru Oil or Lin Speed are NOT an oil finish and are better than oil in some ways but it is easy to chip and hard to fill in. French Oil is in the older formulas Turpentine, Shellac and linseed oil and is better. I have switched to Watco's Danish Oil myself.

I no longer recommend linseed oil for a gun that will see all weather use.

[StarMetal]

After the stock is sanded, whiskered, sanded and steel wooled and garin filled if you prefer you...
1st Coat I usually mix 50/50 lindseed oil, boiled and turpentine and soak the stock down good. When it gets tacky wipe it all off and let it dry for a week wiping it dry if any more comes to the surface.
Then you rub in a coat of oil only and rub it till your plam blisters and let it dry for a week, do this over and over till you hands are 1 " of calus. After about 6 months you will have a nice satin finish that is unfortunatly NOT waterproof and won't keep a stock from warping. But it is somewhat traditional. Tru Oil or Lin Speed are NOT an oil finish and are better than oil in some ways but it is easy to chip and hard to fill in. French Oil is in the older formulas Turpentine, Shellac and linseed oil and is better. I have switched to Watco's Danish Oil myself.

I no longer recommend linseed oil for a gun that will see all weather use.

I'm with KSCO. If I want to keep a rifle traditional for say a collection I'll put the correct finish on it. For my serious hunting rifles I seal the stocks with a finish that seals and is weather proof inside and outside the stock. Phooey on the traditional finishes for me.

[JIMinPHX]

Filled the grain? How do you fill the grain? Is that the same as raising the grain as explained by atr? Or is it something different?

[leftiye]

Somewhat quicker - Once you have the grain filled put on a thick (not real sloppy ) coat of birchwood casey. Once you have a little buildup, wet sand (paint thinner and 400 grit). This will leave you with a matt finish. Then a few coats of BLO - rub on, wipe off, etc.. Watch the B'wood Casey, it will continue to be distinct coats, and you will sand through the shine of the top coat, and get an uneven coat due to the shine of the next coats. Thas why the one thick coat over the sanded and smooth base.

[danski26]

Wow! There are a lot of different ways to finish a stock!

[rhbrink]

A question for KCSO I recently finished a stock with Watco Danish finish oil, mainly because I had some on hand and had heard of some people using it. The oil that I have is probably at least 10 years old and takes a week to dry between coats is this normal? Do you cut yous with any thinner? I apply very thin just a few drops and rub in by hand until it feels warm then set aside for a week or more. I"m using this on a maple stock and it does make for a very nice looking finish. Thanks