I got a new mold I want to use for my 1917 / 30-06.
Until now I donīt now a person using this mold but Iīm rather curious about it and wanted to try.
Is here someone who uses this mold?
What are your experiences ??
I got a new mold I want to use for my 1917 / 30-06.
Until now I donīt now a person using this mold but Iīm rather curious about it and wanted to try.
Is here someone who uses this mold?
What are your experiences ??
I use that bullet in my 308 and get great results, with IMR4227 and AA5744. One inch groups at 100 yds. when I do my part. I did have to beagle the mold to get a .300 nose.
Mr. Bill2
Thank you for your information.
Please, can you use another word for "beagle".
My translator says this is a dog and I really donīt understand what you want to say.
beagle cast bullets
Second link, scroll down about 1.5 pages to the heading "How to beagle a mold"
Edit - Not trying to be a jerk, just in the mindset of 'teach a man to fish'.
My Winchester M.70 Target loves this boolit with 12 grains of Unique and 1 MOA is quite common with this combination. Second place is 17 grains of 2400 which runs 1.5 MOA.
JDL
That bullet has worked better in my 1917 Remington (a 2-groove JA) than any other I have tried.
Just returned from the range testing this boolit in my .308 Savage 99. Only had enough for 2 groups but, got 1.8"and 1.18". Accurate 3100 was the propellant @ 41 grains, almost a case full. More testing to come.
JDL
cbnc, I've tried #31644 in both my .30-06 and 7.5 x 55mm (K-31) and was quite pleased with its performance (m.o.a. accuracy in both cals.). Loads for the '06 were 21 - 22 grs. WC 820 (AA #9); 21 - 23 grs. 5744; 23 - 24 grs. H/IMR 4198; 28 - 30 grs. IMR 3031; 46 - 49 grs. WC 860 + LR mag. primers.
The nose on mine come out at .298" or .002" too small.
When I get around to it I plan on machining it to the proper diameter.
closebutnocigar
Make sure your mold matches the picture you posted.
IIRC, somebody posted earlier this year that Lyman changed the shape of the 311644 to do away with the tapered area.
I have one that matches the picture, but haven't had a chance to cast any yet.
I aim to misbehave.
Mostly Harmless.
It is an odd looking blt, maybe even ugly, however, that said, it shoots very well in my 06's, and 308's. Like it best over 2400.
1Shirt
"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin
"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying
I have one and it works good in everything I've tried, but the mould just doesn't want to drop the boolits. I have to beat and pound the hinge pin for half a minute at times. Does anyone else have that problem with this design? I've tried all the easy fixes except Kroil.
Maineboy
If you buy a 311644 mold today, this is the bullet it will cast.
The new bullet still has the tapered section just in front of the first driving band, the lube groves on the bullet nose are no longer there.
Mr. Bill2
Maineboy, have you tried the spray stuff sold at Midwayusa from Franklin Arsenal? I think it's called mold release or something like that. It does seem to help sticking molds.
Larry
This mould is my next purchase for my M98 308
THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!
What's it shoot like in the .308?? Lyman lists it as a .308 design capable of 1 Moa!
THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |