Well .... since this has been a heated topic I decided to ask myself ....why? And I have been forced to compromise my pride a little bit to do something I swore I would never do. And that is anneal pistol brass. Since you have no barrel length for harmonics and no bedding issues, I have always believed that a hangun is about ignition, ignition, ignition. Well .... that was wrong. Now my belief is that it is about ignition and sealing.
Sealing is what happens when neck tension or crimp or both are strong enough to hold the bullet until pressure gets high enough to force the brass out to the chamber wall and seal before the bullet strats to move or the chamber leaks and you get dirty chambers. Well, the guys that are going balls to the wall have brass made to accomodate that and all they need do is maintain neck tension and crimp.
But if you are trying to load something other than this level, your brass is too hard no matter how your neck tension is set up. If you need 24,000 psi before the bullet leaves the case and you are shooting a soft, PB bullet that craps at 18,000psi, then you need brass that will perform at a far lower pressure to get the seal for that bullet or mix. Different chamber dimensions also cause seal problems and can be that one chamber that throws a bullet everytime. I always thought mis-alignment. I saw this eliminated. In fact, I am more likely to believe that you have a seal problem on a chamber now than an alignment issue. And this is why most guns perform right on the top and have to have a hard bullet. Because that is where the brass thickness manufactured for that caliber is designed to perform. Period.
I chose a load of 8.5 grains of Unique which is a fairly classic charge for 44 Mag with a 240 grain bullet. This load in my line bored, tight chambered gun was about 1". In two Redhawks it was 2 1/2" almost 4 with flier. I annealed and now both Redhawks shoot round 1 3/4" groups with no flier. But One Redhawk took 7 seconds of anneal to get to that level. Now someone else might have just went up to 10 grains until they got a seal and produced the same accuracy. If they had that option with a harder bullet to take the higher pressure.
The problems with heat treating are many. How to set up a consistent heat sourse from anneal job to anneal job. You then have to mark and set that brass aside for only that pressure range when you are done because soft brass will stick at much lower pressures. In 357 you simply would use 38 brass. In a 454 Casul, use 45 Colt brass. Thin brass has options that you can load up or down. But thin brass stretches at higher pressures. So there is no free lunch. And I did ruin brass for anything over 10,000 psi in the process trying to see how far I could go. Part of the price.
So you have to start slow or low heat or light anneal and work down. Pick out 6 cases and load six at a time and heat treat a little more each time until you get to that level that you seal for that load. And watch the load come in. It may just take your mind completly off neck tension AND crimp.